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why water wave travel more slowly in shallow water than deep water?
Water waves slow down in shallow water due to the decrease in water depth. As the water becomes shallower, the waves encounter resistance from the seabed, causing them to lose energy and slow down.
The speed of water waves decreases in shallow water compared to deep water. This is because in deep water, the waves have more space to travel without encountering resistance, allowing them to maintain their speed.
Longer waves tend to travel faster in shallow water than shorter waves due to their longer wavelength. Longer waves have a lower frequency and therefore, lose less energy when encountering the resistance of the seabed, allowing them to maintain their speed better than shorter waves.
In some cases, water waves can actually speed up in shallow water. This occurs when the waves are refracted or bent towards the shore, increasing their speed as they are compressed. However, this is only temporary and the waves will eventually slow down again as they reach shallower depths.
The shape of the seabed can greatly affect the speed of water waves in shallow water. For example, if the seabed gradually slopes downward, the waves will experience a gradual decrease in speed. However, if there are sudden changes in the seabed, such as a steep drop-off, the waves can become distorted and may even increase in speed due to the change in water depth.