Circuit completion : is it necessary?

  • Thread starter AlchemistK
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In summary: In your example, one of the terminals of the battery (most likely the negative) was (edit: probably) fastened to the chassis framework of the car to use it as an intentional return path back to the source (the battery). It found it's way back to the battery through the metal parts of the car... It didn't drain itself into the ground through the tires, I assure you.
  • #106
Evil Bunny said:
Most houses (if not all) in the US are wired with single phase. Yes, it originates as three phase (upstream) but we're only using one of the phases. This third prong on the plug receptacles that people are calling the "ground wire" (whose technical term is an "equipment grounding conductor") has absolutely nothing to do with the neutral whatsoever. It is used for bonding the metal parts in your house.

I know that you're only using one of the phases but other users are using the other two phases and the neutral is common to all users and the system has to work as a whole. This neutral conductor is sure to be near Earth potential, for symmetry reasons. If you look at massive electrical distribution lines there is one tiny 'fourth conductor' which is strung from pylon to pylon.

As you say, the reason for a local ground / Earth is to give you something to hang all exposed metal onto. This means that you can never get many volts between yourself, your feet and anything you are likely to touch as long as you are not actually poking about inside some equipment.
 
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  • #107
sophiecentaur said:
This thread has bi-polar disorder, I think. On the one hand we have the transformer / live/ neutral discussion and, on the other hand, we have the connect a battery and what happens discussion.
Could a moderator split up this thread into two threads then?
 
  • #108
rcgldr said:
Could a moderator split up this thread into two threads then?

A lobotomy?
 
  • #109
Evil Bunny said:
They [the neutral wire] carry just as much current as the hot wires in the branch circuits of your house under normal operating conditions.

If you touch the neutral wire and plumbing, nothing happens, so there should be no need for insulation.

If you touch the hot wire and plumbing, you'll get shocked. So the hot wire ought to be insulated.

If you touch the hot wire and the neutral wire, you'll get shocked, so at least one of them should be insulated.

So if you're only going to insulate one, wouldn't it make more sense to insulate the hot wire?

Or is the insulation for fire reasons? Wouldn't the hot wire and the neutral wire get to the same temperature?
 
  • #110
neutral wire insulated
For one thing it allows a person to keep track of which wire is the neutral (black insulator) and which one is used for grounding (bare wire). And I assume the voltage difference you see between ground and neutral at an outlet is due to the resistance in the path from outlet netrual wire to panel ground, back to outlet on ground wire, and what ever capacitance effect all those grounded appliances have.
 
  • #111
@evilbunny
The neutral will take no current for the 220v equipment.
 
  • #112
Correct. When I said branch circuits I meant 120V circuits. Important point and careless on my part.
 
  • #113
RedX said:
So if you're only going to insulate one, wouldn't it make more sense to insulate the hot wire?

Or is the insulation for fire reasons? Wouldn't the hot wire and the neutral wire get to the same temperature?

You're insulating both. The hot and the neutral. Sometimes you're even insulating the "ground wire". The hot is black insulation. The neutral is white insulation. If the "ground wire" is insulated at all, it will be green insulation (In the US)

The reason, again, is that the neutral carries current just like the hot. You don't want bare wires with current on them strung through your house. If there's a fault, everything metal is a potential danger. Arcing could be a problem as well... I would say that, yes, risk of fire is probably at the very top of the list as to why they insulate.

rcgldr said:
For one thing it allows a person to keep track of which wire is the neutral (black insulator) and which one is used for grounding (bare wire).

In the US, the black insulator is the "hot" or "live" wire. The neutral is white. The ground is either green or bare wire.

sophiecentaur said:
I know that you're only using one of the phases but other users are using the other two phases and the neutral is common to all users and the system has to work as a whole. This neutral conductor is sure to be near Earth potential, for symmetry reasons. If you look at massive electrical distribution lines there is one tiny 'fourth conductor' which is strung from pylon to pylon.

This part of the conversation has been jumping all over the place. We were talking about grounding and bonding, now we're talking about the reason for a neutral in a 3-phase wye power distribution system.

I didn't realize this is the angle you were coming from because when you first said this it was in response to a question about the third prong (the grounding prong) in an outlet at someone's house.

Here, you seem to be discussing the reasons for grounding the neutral on the distribution side of a massive power system supplying neighborhoods. I would agree that this is probably one of the major reasons they ground the neutral in such a system.

On the other hand, I don't really think it's relevant to why we ground the center tap on the secondary (user) side of the transformer.
 
  • #114
On the other hand, I don't really think it's relevant to why we ground the center tap on the secondary (user) side of the transformer.

So why do you think this is grounded?
 
  • #115
I am not familiar with US practice but if both legs are feeding loads there will still be less neutral current. The neutral would only carry the. 'difference current'.
 
  • #116
sophiecentaur said:
I am not familiar with US practice but if both legs are feeding loads there will still be less neutral current. The neutral would only carry the. 'difference current'.

The neutral conductor between the service entrance and the transformer will only carry the "difference current". But in each branch circuit that is 120V (between the loads and the service panel) the hot conductor and the neutral conductor will carry the same current. These are the majority of circuits in a typical house and these circuits constitute most of the wires running through the structure of your house.

As for the reasons for grounding... there have been many books written on the subject. One of the most popular books on the subject seems to be https://www.amazon.com/dp/1890659363/?tag=pfamazon01-20.

The 2011 National Electric Code paragraph 250.1(A)(1) states:

"Electrical System Grounding. Electrical systems that
are grounded shall be connected to Earth in a manner that
will limit the voltage imposed by lightning, line surges, or
unintentional contact with higher-voltage lines and that will
stabilize the voltage to earth
during normal operation."

(emphasis mine)

So, I would offer that as the reason for grounding...
 
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  • #117
I reckon that sums it up quite well.
 
  • #118
"Electrical System Grounding. Electrical systems that
are grounded shall be connected to Earth in a manner that
will limit the voltage imposed by lightning, line surges, or
unintentional contact with higher-voltage lines and that will
stabilize the voltage to Earth during normal operation."

Well thank you for the reply.

However my understanding of the above wording is that it does not constitute a reason.

Nor does it require grounding.

It merely states a manner of grounding if the electrical system is grounded.

So that is not the answer to my question.
 
  • #119
Evil Bunny said:
I didn't realize this is the angle you were coming from because when you first said this it was in response to a question about the third prong (the grounding prong) in an outlet at someone's house.

Here, you seem to be discussing the reasons for grounding the neutral on the distribution side of a massive power system supplying neighborhoods. I would agree that this is probably one of the major reasons they ground the neutral in such a system.

On the other hand, I don't really think it's relevant to why we ground the center tap on the secondary (user) side of the transformer.

This is a transatlantic problem. We (UK) don't have this centre-tapped system because we use 230V only. The neutral in the UK is part of the three phase distribution system - right up to the end of the street - from which houses are fed in groups of three, all the way up, with one phase each. Hence my comments about protecting the other two phases from over-volts (to Earth, that is) under a fault condition by grounding the neutral somewhere.. 'Your' 110V system seems to have many disadvantages compared with using twice the voltage, as is done in Europe and many other places. I guess it's historical and too late to change now.
 
  • #120
Evil Bunny said:
On the other hand, I don't really think it's relevant to why we ground the center tap on the secondary (user) side of the transformer.

Studiot said:
So why do you think this is grounded?

I think it is grounded to limit the voltage imposed by lightning, line surges, or
unintentional contact with higher-voltage lines and that will
stabilize the voltage to earth.

by this I mean that we want unintended high voltages and lightning to be routed AROUND the wiring in the house and not to go THROUGHOUT the house and destroy property and cause injury.

Studiot said:
Well thank you for the reply.

You are welcome.

Studiot said:
However my understanding of the above wording is that it does not constitute a reason.

I have reworded it to make it sound more like an answer. Hope that helps.

Studiot said:
Nor does it require grounding.

Nor does what require grounding? In the US, our entire distribution system is grounded. Our houses are grounded. This is a requirement by law in this country. So... depending on what your definition of "require" is, this may or may not be a true statement.

Studiot said:
It merely states a manner of grounding if the electrical system is grounded.

As every dwelling in the United States is grounded.

Studiot said:
So that is not the answer to my question.

I hope I have clarified it a little better for you.
 
  • #121
The 2011 National Electric Code paragraph 250.1(A)(1) states:

I hope I have clarified it a little better for you.

No not at all.

You claim to have quoted a paragraph from code regulations.

I am merely pointing out that the interpretation you have offered for this paragraph is fundamentally different from what the paragraph quite clearly says in plain English.

I am well aware that it is normal practice in the US to ground the centre point of the consumer's supply transformer.

I just don't agree that this has anything to do with lightning etc.
 
  • #122
Evil Bunny said:
In the US, the black insulator is the "hot" or "live" wire. The neutral is white. The ground is either green or bare wire.
It was too late to edit and correct my post. The wiki link below shows some various standards for the wiring colors.

3 phase transmission lines
Note in the US, normally there is no 4th neutral line in higher voltage 3 phase distribution. There is a fourth grounded wire mounted the highest on the towers, but that is for lightning protection and does not go back to the generator station. For these systems, the step down transformers have a neutral connected to ground.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power#Three-wire_versus_four-wire
 
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  • #123
Studiot said:
No not at all.

You claim to have quoted a paragraph from code regulations.

Not only did I claim to have quoted it, I actually quoted it!

Studiot said:
I am merely pointing out that the interpretation you have offered for this paragraph is fundamentally different from what the paragraph quite clearly says in plain English.

It's telling you how a grounding system SHALL BE installed. It SHALL BE installed in that manner so as to limit the voltage imposed by lightning, line surges, or unintentional contact with higher-voltage lines.

To me... that's a declaration as to why the systems shall be grounded. Additionally, in other professional electrical forums (electriciantalk and mikeholt are a couple examples) where the focus is strictly code based discussion and topics on the electrician's profession, this is a well established and widely agreed upon explanation to the question, "why do we ground?"

Studiot said:
I am well aware that it is normal practice in the US to ground the centre point of the consumer's supply transformer.

I just don't agree that this has anything to do with lightning etc.

You don't need to agree with it for it to be so...

I don't suppose you want to offer your opinion on why we ground?
 
  • #124
If you don't ground in some way and somewhere, there is nothing to stop the average volts going to dangerously high values. The whole mains network could float up to 1kV or more, easily, and then break down someone's insulation on some just-to-spec domestic equipment. The total capacity of a local system is quite high - several uF - and probably a lot more. That could actually be lethal for some unsuspecting lady drying her hair.
Why do you think all planes are grounded before anyone touches them - all fuel pipes - all conveyor systems ? You ground things - natch. Where would you ground a mains distribution system? Not on one of the lives, for sure, so you choose the neutral.
 
  • #125
If you don't ground in some way and somewhere, there is nothing to stop the average volts going to dangerously high values.

And where & how do we ground industrial and site 110V supplies in the UK?


Firstly

Electrical systems that
are grounded shall be connected to Earth in a manner

This would be worded differently if all electrical systems were to be grounded.

As it is worded it allows for the possibility that some are and some are not (which I understand to be the case).

Secondly

I don't suppose you want to offer your opinion on why we ground?

Consider why there is a centre tapped secondary and how this is used.

As I understand it, doing this allows for independent wiring for say the 120V lighting and 120V low power outlets, given that the US practice does not use ring mains.

Now two questions:

Let us suppose that there a CT transformer is connected to (supplies) two such circuits in a building so that some lights are supplied from the 120V between one end terminal of the transformer and the centre and a 120V wall outlet is supplied from the other.

Now suppose that a device plugged into the wall outlet draws sufficient current to reduce the supply (perhaps a momentary switch on surge) by 10 - or even 20 volts.

What voltage would the circuit on the other half of the transformer see if

1) The CT was grounded
2) The CT was not grounded

Similarly suppose the wall outlet device draws sufficient fault current to trip its breaker.

Again what voltage would the circuit on the other half of the transformer see if

1) The CT was grounded
2) The CT was not grounded


I think if the CT were not grounded excess voltage could appear on the other circuit.
 
  • #126
Studiot said:
And where & how do we ground industrial and site 110V supplies in the UK?

Good question but I think there are several answers to it. Firstly, industrial equipment for use outside is very highly spec'd (it's all double insulated, for a start). Secondly, the ungrounded networks are small in extent (in the cases I have seen, at least- with one or two appliances fed from a transformer; you could perhaps tell me different - I just don't know) but one supply is definitely limited to one premises. Thirdly, you can't guarantee that all exposed metal will be also grounded (very relevant when there is high risk of temporary cables being damaged during construction work)

It is a compromise between various factors which makes grounding produce possibly a greater risk than not grounding - in those particular circumstances. I'd bet that a lot of thought went into the decision to have two different standards.
 
  • #127
Studiot said:
Consider why there is a centre tapped secondary and how this is used.

As I understand it, doing this allows for independent wiring for say the 120V lighting and 120V low power outlets, given that the US practice does not use ring mains.

Why is that an advantage, except that it (as much as) halves the current demand on one incoming circuit (which would be less, in any case if they used a higher voltage system)? UK systems just use several independently fused circuits. The only reason for using ring mains is that it is cheaper in copper.
 
  • #128
Studiot said:
Again what voltage would the circuit on the other half of the transformer see if

1) The CT was grounded
2) The CT was not grounded


I think if the CT were not grounded excess voltage could appear on the other circuit.

Absolutely - which is what I said about two pages back - only with regard to a proper three phase system.
 
  • #130
Does that thread actually add anything to this one?
As far as I can see, the Federal System in the US probably means that it is harder to introduce a tough regulatory system for electrical supply and use than in European (UK) authorities. I can see how a system with 110V was more attractive to the US government because it meant some inherent safety. The UK system was more 'tight',with many more restrictions on systems and could relax the need for an inherently safer voltage - going more for a cheaper (cabling) system.
Standards are a compromise between political, economic and health-and-safety issues. The environment will affect the final choice (as on UK building sites).
 
  • #131
Studiot said:
This would be worded differently if all electrical systems were to be grounded.

As it is worded it allows for the possibility that some are and some are not (which I understand to be the case).

Not every electrical system in existence needs to be grounded. Residential dwellings are... but there are certainly scenarios where grounding is not mandatory. Probably some industrial applications would not have grounding requirements, but I'm not sure of any specific examples. It suffices to say that ungrounded systems are certainly here... they are just uncommon.

Studiot said:
Consider why there is a centre tapped secondary and how this is used.

As I understand it, doing this allows for independent wiring for say the 120V lighting and 120V low power outlets, given that the US practice does not use ring mains.

I don't know what ring mains are...

Studiot said:
Now two questions:

Let us suppose that there a CT transformer is connected to (supplies) two such circuits in a building so that some lights are supplied from the 120V between one end terminal of the transformer and the centre and a 120V wall outlet is supplied from the other.

Now suppose that a device plugged into the wall outlet draws sufficient current to reduce the supply (perhaps a momentary switch on surge) by 10 - or even 20 volts.

What voltage would the circuit on the other half of the transformer see if

1) The CT was grounded
2) The CT was not grounded

The voltage would be the same whether the center tap was grounded or not... The grounding of the center tap has absolutely nothing to do with how the circuit operates. You could rip the grounding rod out of the Earth and you would see no difference at all in the operation of the circuits.

Now to answer what would happen on the other half of the transformer... I don't believe the other half would "notice" the voltage drop on the first half at all. I believe this because I have heard of overloaded transformers where only one half of the windings were damaged... But this is a bit off topic, because even if the other side did "notice" the voltage drop, whether or not we attached a ground rod to the center tap and pounded it into the ground would have no bearing on this outcome whatsoever.

Studiot said:
Similarly suppose the wall outlet device draws sufficient fault current to trip its breaker.

Again what voltage would the circuit on the other half of the transformer see if

1) The CT was grounded
2) The CT was not grounded


I think if the CT were not grounded excess voltage could appear on the other circuit.

This happens all the time. The systems are designed this way on purpose! Nothing happens to the other side of the transformer whatsoever.

And again, if something did happen, a grounded center tap would not affect this outcome.

I have seen many situations where people have stolen copper wire (to sell to the recycling shop) off of ground rods and nobody ever noticed the difference. This will not affect the operation of the circuits at all.
 
  • #132
sophiecentaur said:
Why is that an advantage, except that it (as much as) halves the current demand on one incoming circuit (which would be less, in any case if they used a higher voltage system)? UK systems just use several independently fused circuits. The only reason for using ring mains is that it is cheaper in copper.

I hope someone explains what ring mains are because I'm at a loss on this...

At any rate... I don't know if a center tapped transformer has any advantages over a straight 240V system. I think (but I'm not sure) some suit in an office somewhere decided long ago that 120V was safe and 240V was not safe, so we decided to run with it and have been stuck with this decision.

We use several independently fused circuits as well (circuit breakers, not fuses)... The only difference is that ours are mostly 120V circuits and they are distributed over two halves of a 240V service transformer. We use the full 240V for larger loads, such as kitchen stoves, electric water heaters, clothes dryers, etc...
 
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  • #133
Evil Bunny said:
Not every electrical system in existence needs to be grounded. Residential dwellings are... but there are certainly scenarios where grounding is not mandatory. Probably some industrial applications would not have grounding requirements, but I'm not sure of any specific examples. It suffices to say that ungrounded systems are certainly here... they are just uncommon.



I don't know what ring mains are...



The voltage would be the same whether the center tap was grounded or not... The grounding of the center tap has absolutely nothing to do with how the circuit operates. You could rip the grounding rod out of the Earth and you would see no difference at all in the operation of the circuits.

Now to answer what would happen on the other half of the transformer... I don't believe the other half would "notice" the voltage drop on the first half at all. I believe this because I have heard of overloaded transformers where only one half of the windings were damaged... But this is a bit off topic, because even if the other side did "notice" the voltage drop, whether or not we attached a ground rod to the center tap and pounded it into the ground would have no bearing on this outcome whatsoever.



This happens all the time. The systems are designed this way on purpose! Nothing happens to the other side of the transformer whatsoever.

And again, if something did happen, a grounded center tap would not affect this outcome.

I have seen many situations where people have stolen copper wire (to sell to the recycling shop) off of ground rods and nobody ever noticed the difference. This will not affect the operation of the circuits at all.
I think that you do not understand some of the basics E-B.
The grounding or not of the neutral makes, as you say, not difference to the operation of the circuits. It's the fault condition that makes the difference. (Your copper thieves would have no immediate effect on the system - just its behaviour after a fault)
If a neutral is not grounded then a fault to Earth (i.e. a conductive connection to Earth) on one of the live conductors will cause the other 'live' conductor to have up to twice the volts wrt Earth (this is really basic theory). The PD across any equipment on the other side will not be affected but the PD relative to Earth will go up (a fuse or CB may disconnect the faulty side but can you rely on it with a low current leak?). However, if you ground the neutral then, whatever fusing or breaker you have on the faulty side,the peak volts on the other side will be unaffected. This MAY not worry you, but it means that what you may have thought was a neutral at near zero volts, is now a neutral at 110V (or whatever), with a potentially lethal current available. If you can live with that, OK but you may not be the only one involved.

A ring main is a system which uses a pair of conductors (L&N) arranged in a loop with both connected at each end to the fused (32A) outlet on the consumer unit. There are two paths for the currents to take. Look it up. It is a cheap and safe way to feed a large number of outlets (a large number of low loads connected in parallel across the cables - usually on one floor of a house and involves thinner and less cable than a star system. The philosophy is that there is a limit to the total amount of load that it will have to support (basically, the place would get too hot with 7kW of load in a relatively small area). It's a system that works well in homes and offices in the UK. Each plug / connector is fused, btw.
 
  • #134
Evil Bunny said:
I hope someone explains what ring mains are because I'm at a loss on this...

At any rate... I don't know if a center tapped transformer has any advantages over a straight 240V system. I think (but I'm not sure) some suit in an office somewhere decided long ago that 120V was safe and 240V was not safe, so we decided to run with it and have been stuck with this decision.

We use several independently fused circuits as well (circuit breakers, not fuses)... The only difference is that ours our mostly 120V circuits and they are distributed over two halves of a 240V service transformer. We use the full 240V for larger loads, such as kitchen stoves, electric water heaters, clothes dryers, etc...

I hope my last post helped with the ring main thing.
Yes- I agree that it was probably just someone's decision.
The problem with the 110V choice is that it was made on the assumption that people would just want lighting and a radio / TV. Once people started needing washing machines and cookers, the thickness of cable needed for 110V was ridiculous. Using a 'two phase' system gave twice the volts for high power devices without too much current / thick wires yet didn't involve new lightbulbs and electronic goods. As I have said before - it's a bit of "dog's dinner" as we say, in the UK - who possible got it right (for once).
 
  • #135
sophiecentaur said:
I think that you do not understand some of the basics E-B.
The grounding or not of the neutral makes, as you say, not difference to the operation of the circuits.

Wow... Studiot asked me a couple questions about what would happen to the "other" side of a CT transformer if it was grounded or not.

I answered them (correctly), and now you're telling me I don't understand basic electricity?

At any rate... You're saying that if we ground a hot (unintentionally), then we now have 120V between Earth and the neutral and 240V between Earth and the other hot.

Good point, and certainly not a desirable situation. And another good reason to ground the neutral... in addition to the other reasons mentioned above.
 
  • #136
Studiot said:
However my understanding of the above wording is that it does not constitute a reason.
Nor does it require grounding.
It merely states a manner of grounding if the electrical system is grounded.
So that is not the answer to my question.
I am not going to read all 100 previous posts. But in the last tens of posts, you are correct. They told you what to do (according to code) and did not say why. Appreciate that most electricians are taught what must connect to what. But learn few of the reasons why.

Let say the transformer primary is 33,000 volts. The secondary is 240 volts with a center tap. That means the house has 120 volts from one side of the transformer to the center tap. And 240 volts if connected from one side of the transformer to the other side.

At the same time, all three wires can be 33,000 volts to earth. Notice what is important. No wire alone has a voltage. Voltage is always between "X and Y". The same wire that can be 240 volts may also be 33,000 volts. Depending on what is referenced.

So that the same wire is only 240 volts or less compared to all other conductors, one wire from the secondary side must be earthed. Not just safety grounded. Earthed.

Earthing performs numerous other functions. Too many to discuss in this post. Some include transistor safety and various human safety issues. But if one end or the center tap of that transformer secondary is not earthed, then up to 33,000 volts can also exist on the 120 or 240 volt wires.
 
  • #137
With only magnetic coupling between primary and secondary, how could kVs appear on the secondary?
 
  • #138
by insulation breakdown, leakage, or by capacitive coupling. When any tap of the secondary is earthed, insulation breakdown would result in enormous current through secondary (keep in mind that secondary is built to handle much larger current than primary), which would open the circuit breaker or blow the fuse on primary.
The thing is, there's also a lot of equipment which will happily bring up mains to many kilovolts. A tv for example. There's also lightning strikes.
When you do stuff like those high voltage inverters using flyback transformer from TV, you need to ground the power supply's - or + else you risk arcing over the transformer in it. (its usually build to hold off much more than rated voltage though, so usually it withstands such abuse)
 
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  • #139
Dmytry said:
by insulation breakdown, leakage, or by capacitive coupling. When any tap of the secondary is earthed, insulation breakdown would result in enormous current through secondary (keep in mind that secondary is built to handle much larger current than primary), which would open the circuit breaker or blow the fuse on primary.

My post was specifically about the 'transformer statement'. I, of course, go along with the notion that grounding is useful for all the other reasons you give (I have written as much already).
However, I have a feeling that any high power transformer that is likely to be used in a serious power distribution system will be designed 1. With the HV ends of the primaries away from the secondary windings and 2. with a grounded electric screen in between the primary and secondary windings (eliminating capacitative coupling). Even a half decent transformer in a low power equipment power supply will have an electrostatic screen.
 
  • #140
Evil Bunny said:
now you're telling me I don't understand basic electricity?
Sorry. On re-reading that, it sounded a bit aggressive. But my point about 'stacking up voltages' still stands. :smile:
 
<h2>1. Is circuit completion necessary for a circuit to function?</h2><p>Yes, circuit completion is necessary for a circuit to function properly. Without a complete circuit, electricity cannot flow and the circuit will not work.</p><h2>2. What happens if a circuit is not completed?</h2><p>If a circuit is not completed, electricity will not flow and the circuit will not work. This can result in a device or system not functioning properly or at all.</p><h2>3. How can I tell if a circuit is complete?</h2><p>You can tell if a circuit is complete by using a multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance of the circuit. If there is a complete path for electricity to flow, the multimeter will show a reading. You can also visually inspect the circuit for any breaks or disconnected components.</p><h2>4. Can a circuit be completed in different ways?</h2><p>Yes, there are different ways to complete a circuit. For example, a series circuit is completed when electricity flows through each component in a single path, while a parallel circuit is completed when electricity flows through multiple paths. Additionally, circuits can be completed using different materials such as wires, conductive metals, or even water.</p><h2>5. Why is circuit completion important in electronics?</h2><p>Circuit completion is important in electronics because it allows for the flow of electricity and enables devices to function. Without a complete circuit, electricity cannot flow and devices will not work. Additionally, understanding circuit completion is essential for troubleshooting and repairing electronic devices.</p>

1. Is circuit completion necessary for a circuit to function?

Yes, circuit completion is necessary for a circuit to function properly. Without a complete circuit, electricity cannot flow and the circuit will not work.

2. What happens if a circuit is not completed?

If a circuit is not completed, electricity will not flow and the circuit will not work. This can result in a device or system not functioning properly or at all.

3. How can I tell if a circuit is complete?

You can tell if a circuit is complete by using a multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance of the circuit. If there is a complete path for electricity to flow, the multimeter will show a reading. You can also visually inspect the circuit for any breaks or disconnected components.

4. Can a circuit be completed in different ways?

Yes, there are different ways to complete a circuit. For example, a series circuit is completed when electricity flows through each component in a single path, while a parallel circuit is completed when electricity flows through multiple paths. Additionally, circuits can be completed using different materials such as wires, conductive metals, or even water.

5. Why is circuit completion important in electronics?

Circuit completion is important in electronics because it allows for the flow of electricity and enables devices to function. Without a complete circuit, electricity cannot flow and devices will not work. Additionally, understanding circuit completion is essential for troubleshooting and repairing electronic devices.

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