Do Water Waves Slow Down and Change Amplitude in Shallow Water?

In summary, water waves travel slower in shallow water due to friction and pressure effects from the rising wave. This can be seen in the change of direction, or refraction, of the waves as they enter shallower water, which also causes a decrease in amplitude. This is known as a breaker and is caused by the real mass transport in the shallows as the water is pushed uphill.
  • #1
truewt
78
0
Hi, just a really simple question I have.

Why do water waves travel slower in shallow water as compared to deeper water?

Also, as the water wave transit from deeper to shallower water, does the amplitude of the water wave change?

Thanks in advance.
 
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  • #3
The thread does not answer why does waves (standing) move slower in shallower waters..
 
  • #4
Friction and pressure effects from the rising wave are probably most of it. There is real mass transport in the shallows and the water has to be pushed uphill.
 
  • #5
This very principle is what causes breakers. Waves moving from deep water to shallow water (such as on a beach) will get slowed down by friction with the bottom. The surface part of the wave gets ahead of the deeper part and you get a breaker.
 
  • #6
because as the waves enter the shallower water, they change direction (or refract), thus slowing down
 

1. What is the difference between shallow water waves and deep water waves?

In shallow water, the wavelength of a wave is shorter than the water depth, while in deep water the wavelength is longer than the water depth. This means that shallow water waves are more affected by the bottom of the body of water, while deep water waves are not.

2. How do waves move in shallow water?

In shallow water, waves move by propagating horizontally, with the bottom of the wave touching the bottom of the body of water. As they move towards the shore, the wave height increases and the wavelength decreases, causing the wave to become steeper.

3. What is the relationship between wave speed and water depth in shallow water?

In shallow water, the speed of a wave is directly proportional to the square root of the water depth. This means that as the water depth decreases, the wave speed decreases as well.

4. How do waves break in shallow water?

Waves break in shallow water when the water depth becomes less than 1/7 of the wavelength. This causes the wave to become too steep and unstable, resulting in it breaking and dissipating its energy.

5. How do shallow water waves interact with the bottom of the body of water?

Shallow water waves interact with the bottom of the body of water through refraction, diffraction, and shoaling. Refraction causes the wave to bend towards the shore, diffraction causes the wave to spread out as it passes through a narrow opening, and shoaling causes the wave to increase in height as it approaches the shore due to the decrease in water depth.

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