Designing a Ball Joint for 135 Degree Flex in 1/4" Brass Tubing

In summary, the device is not able to flex up to 135 degrees from straight. The first attempt used heat shrink tubing to connect the tubes, but it was too big and the joints had too much "play". The second attempt used ball bearings, but they didn't stick to the solder. The final attempt is to use BBs, but they may not be strong enough.
  • #1
DaveC426913
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I am building a device out of 1/4" brass tubing. I need to join lengths in such a way as to allow the tubes to flex up to 135 degrees from straight.

I haven't been able to figure out how to get that much rotation from a ball joint without the joint falling apart.See attached diagram below for what I'm trying to do.

The posts fold back on themselves until they are a mere 45 degrees from W.

Note that the joint needs to be entirely symmetrical - i.e. W is not special, it is identical to X Y and Z. (I could take the joint by itself, toss it in the air and catch it and not know the difference in orientation.)

The one solution that might do it would be to make them all universal joints, like in the drive shaft of a car, like this:http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b5/Universal_joint.gif
but I don't have the room for 4 universal joints in that little space.

Looking for alternate ideas. Would accept off-the shelf parts or build by hand.

Thoughts?
 

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  • #2
Hey there, pal.
You didn't mention what sort of stress, strain, and assorted insults this thing might be subjected to.
Would connecting the tubes with a coil spring work? I've used that in place of U-joints several times in my lack-of-career, and it works pretty well.
 
  • #3
Danger said:
Hey there, pal.
You didn't mention what sort of stress, strain, and assorted insults this thing might be subjected to.
Would connecting the tubes with a coil spring work? I've used that in place of U-joints several times in my lack-of-career, and it works pretty well.
Ideally, very little stress.

I just stumbled on to "bendy" type solutions myself. I would work, yes. The only downside is that springs and other bendy things have a certain amount of "play" associated with them. i.e. the joint, if under even moderate torque or compression, could collapse on itself.

But yeah. Thanks I'm, going to mull over designs.
 
  • #4
DaveC426913 said:
springs and other bendy things have a certain amount of "play" associated with them. i.e. the joint, if under even moderate torque or compression, could collapse on itself.

Oh! Hey! What about braided stainless tubing, as we use in automotive fluid lines?
 
  • #5
Look around some R/C (radio control) hobby shops. I don't have a specific recommendation, but I've seen some pretty clever component designs.
 
  • #6
Well, first attempt.

The core is a tetrahedral carbon atom left over from one of those tinker-toy-chemistry sets*. The joints are heat shrink tubing.

It works great. The problem with it is that it's too big. The whole joint is about 3/4 of an inch in radius. The sets a lower limit on the scale of what I'm building.

*or a caltrop if your geek flag tilts toward nasty antipersonnel weaponry
 

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  • #7
Hmmm...
 
  • #8
The only thing I can come up with is that eye-glasses and sunglasses have tiny joints which perhaps you could make use of.

I also thought of an umbrella configuration - at a certain partial opening 3 of the ribs would be 90 degrees from each other and 45 degress from the stem ( W ) , but W would be unique.
 
  • #9
256bits said:
The only thing I can come up with is that eye-glasses and sunglasses have tiny joints which perhaps you could make use of.

I also thought of an umbrella configuration - at a certain partial opening 3 of the ribs would be 90 degrees from each other and 45 degress from the stem ( W ) , but W would be unique.

Yes. Sorry it is critical that the joint is symmetrical.
 
  • #10
Well, attempt #2 is a fail. I thought of the brilliant idea of making my own polyhedral core by soldering 4 very short lengths of my brass tubing to a ball bearing. It would have been perfect.

Alas, whatever these ball bearings are made of, it isn't something that solder sticks to.
 
  • #11
Okay, Dave... let's take another shot at this. How about...
Drill some holes through the ball bearings and scuff up the surface with a file. That should give the solder something to cling to.
 
  • #12
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-types/spherical-ball-bushings-features [Broken]

could be solution
 
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  • #13
Danger said:
Okay, Dave... let's take another shot at this. How about...
Drill some holes through the ball bearings and scuff up the surface with a file. That should give the solder something to cling to.
Yeah. That'll be my next thing. But really, the solder didn't even pretend to stick. (Of course, it's possible that I didn't get all the grease off it. )

Another thing I'm going to try is some BBs I have left over from a slingshot. Not sure what they're made of, but we'll see.
 
  • #14
Ranger Mike said:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-types/spherical-ball-bushings-features [Broken]

could be solution

Cool solution but
1] nothing small enough
2] at 10 bucks a pop, my device will cost 240 bucks just for joints
 
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  • #15
Would a countersunk ring magnet like these
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/550870918-10-pack-super-Powerful-n35-NdFeB-Neodymium-Disc-Countersunk-Ring-Magnets-D20-5mm-hole-5mm-wholesalers.html [Broken]
with the countersink forming the "socket" part of a ball-joint work? The ball would have to be big relative to the magnet, to give the 135 degree movement.

Those magnets are too big but you might be able to find smaller ones. There is probably some new age cult that uses magnets as beads...
 
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  • #16
AlephZero said:
Would a countersunk ring magnet like these
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/550870918-10-pack-super-Powerful-n35-NdFeB-Neodymium-Disc-Countersunk-Ring-Magnets-D20-5mm-hole-5mm-wholesalers.html [Broken]
with the countersink forming the "socket" part of a ball-joint work? The ball would have to be big relative to the magnet, to give the 135 degree movement.

Those magnets are too big but you might be able to find smaller ones. There is probably some new age cult that uses magnets as beads...

Interesting. A creative solution. But I can see that having a bunch of magnets in this thing would be disastrous.
 
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  • #17
Attempt #3 is a success!

The solder is sticking to the BBs perfectly. I can now make my own arms out of brass tube. And I've made an improvement. I can solder a very thin flange at the end of the arm (a 1mm slice of tube one size larger in diameter than the arms) and now my heat shrink tubing will be locked on instead of holding by friction.

The fact that I can lock it on also means that I don't need any more heat shrink coverage than a mm, so the arms can be arbitrarily short. It is really critical that these joints be as physically small as possible. The size of the joints sets a lower limt on the size of the structure I'm building (which is otherwise arbitrarily scalable but it's already larger than I want it). So any shortening I can do on the arms is bonus.

(The next big problem is how to solder four pieces on so close together without each of them falling apart as I do the next one. I'm not fast with a soldering iron...)
 

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1. How do you determine the appropriate size and material for a ball joint in 1/4" brass tubing?

To determine the size and material for a ball joint, several factors must be considered, including the weight and load-bearing capacity of the joint, the dimensions of the tubing, and the intended use of the joint. It is also important to consider the properties of different materials, such as strength and corrosion resistance, to ensure the joint can withstand the desired level of flexibility and durability.

2. What are the key design considerations for achieving a 135 degree flex in a ball joint?

The key design considerations for achieving a 135 degree flex in a ball joint include the angle of the joint, the length and diameter of the tubing, and the shape and size of the ball and socket components. The angle of the joint is particularly important, as it determines the degree of flexibility that can be achieved without compromising the structural integrity of the joint.

3. How do you ensure the ball joint will not fail under repeated flexing?

To ensure the ball joint will not fail under repeated flexing, it is important to use high-quality materials and to design the joint with appropriate tolerances and reinforcement. The ball and socket components should be made from a strong and durable material, and the joint should be designed to evenly distribute stress and prevent any weak points from forming.

4. Can a ball joint be designed to achieve a 135 degree flex in a different type of tubing?

Yes, a ball joint can be designed to achieve a 135 degree flex in different types of tubing. However, the design considerations may vary depending on the material and dimensions of the tubing. It is important to carefully assess the properties of the tubing and make any necessary adjustments to the design to ensure the joint will function properly.

5. How can computer-aided design (CAD) software be used in the design process for a ball joint?

CAD software can be very useful in the design process for a ball joint, as it allows for precise measurements and simulations to be made before the joint is physically created. This can help identify any potential issues or areas for improvement in the design, and can also aid in creating accurate and precise manufacturing instructions for the joint.

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