Periodic Surface Waves Produced by Non-Periodic Disturbances

In summary, the angular frequency of a periodic surface wave on deep water is given by ω = sqrt(gk), where g is the gravitational acceleration. The phase velocity of the wave can be expressed as V_{p}=\sqrt{\frac{g\lambda}{2\pi}}, where λ is the wavelength. It is possible for a localized non-periodic disturbance far out at sea to lead to approximately periodic surface waves at the shore due to dispersion, where waves with the same wavelength travel together and longer wavelength waves can overtake slower ones. This phenomenon is known as dispersion.
  • #1
Caveman11
11
0
This is part of a past paper I am trying to work through before a physics of fluids exam in a month.The angular frequency ω of a periodic surface wave with wavenumber k on
deep water is
ω = sqrt(gk)
where g is the gravitational acceleration.
Obtain an expression for the wave’s phase velocity in terms of its wavelength
and explain how a localized non-periodic disturbance far out at sea can lead
to approximately periodic surface waves at the shore.
Relevant equations:

[tex]V_{p}[/tex]=[tex]\frac{\omega}{k}[/tex] (Phase Velocity)
3. The Attempt at a Solution : I obtained a value for [tex]V_{p}[/tex] as:

[tex]V_{p}[/tex]=[tex]\sqrt{\frac{g\lambda}{2\pi}}[/tex]

Which I assume to be correct. However I can't explain the fact that you can get periodic waves from non-periodic motion. The only explanation I could think of was that the waves with the same wavelength travel together as they have the same phase velocity where as longer wavelength waves have a higher phase velocity and can overtake the slower ones. This would lead to after a while all the different periods being grouped together?Many Thanks
 
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  • #2
Yes. That's "dispersion" for ya!
 
  • #3
I didn't expect it to be be that, Thanks
 

1. What are periodic surface waves and how are they produced?

Periodic surface waves are regular patterns of movement on the surface of a liquid or solid. They are produced by non-periodic disturbances, such as a sudden burst of energy or a moving object, which create a ripple effect on the surface.

2. How do non-periodic disturbances create periodic surface waves?

Non-periodic disturbances create periodic surface waves by transferring energy to the surface through a series of impulses or impacts. This energy causes the surface to vibrate and create the wave pattern.

3. What is the difference between periodic and non-periodic disturbances?

Periodic disturbances occur at regular intervals, while non-periodic disturbances occur at irregular intervals. This means that periodic disturbances create predictable and repeating patterns, while non-periodic disturbances create more random patterns.

4. What are some examples of non-periodic disturbances that can produce periodic surface waves?

Common examples of non-periodic disturbances that can produce periodic surface waves include wind blowing over water, a stone being dropped into a pond, or a boat moving through the water.

5. How do scientists study and measure the effects of periodic surface waves produced by non-periodic disturbances?

Scientists use various techniques such as wave gauges, laser interferometry, and high-speed photography to study and measure the effects of periodic surface waves produced by non-periodic disturbances. These methods allow for precise measurements of the wave characteristics and the behavior of the surface under different conditions.

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