Amplitude of a wave when changing depth

In summary, when a wave travels from deep to shallow water, its wavelength decreases and its velocity also decreases. As the wave approaches shallow water, the amplitude increases. This can be explained by the conservation of energy, where the decrease in kinetic energy is balanced by an increase in potential energy. However, the exact mathematical relationship between wavelength and amplitude is not clear.
  • #1
nilic1
39
0
In most books the amplitude does not change when water waves pass from deep to shallow water. In some books the diagrams show an increased amplitude. Which one is correct?
 
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  • #2
As a wave goes from deep to shallow, its wavelength decreases as well as its velocity. As it approaches a shallow part, the amplitude increases.

(an easy example is to consider how a tsunami works)
 
  • #3
rock.freak667 said:
As a wave goes from deep to shallow, its wavelength decreases as well as its velocity. As it approaches a shallow part, the amplitude increases.

(an easy example is to consider how a tsunami works)

Thanks for your answer. Is there any mathematical relationship which can support the fact that the amplitude actually increases?
 
  • #4
I can't remember what power of a wave depends on how however, if you consider a conservation of energy standpoint, I think if the second velocity decreases (decrease in KE) the height would increase (increase in PE) to keep the energy constant.

KE + PE = constant.
 
  • #5


The amplitude of a water wave can indeed change when the wave passes from deep to shallow water. This change in amplitude is due to the change in the depth of the water, which affects the speed and wavelength of the wave. In shallow water, the wave encounters more resistance and slows down, causing the wavelength to decrease and the amplitude to increase. This can be seen in some diagrams, where the amplitude is shown to increase in shallow water. However, in most books, the amplitude is assumed to remain constant for simplicity and to focus on other aspects of wave behavior. Therefore, both statements are correct and it is important to consider the context and purpose of the information being presented.
 

What is the amplitude of a wave?

The amplitude of a wave is the maximum displacement of particles from their resting position when a wave passes through a medium. It is a measure of the energy carried by the wave.

How does depth affect the amplitude of a wave?

The amplitude of a wave decreases as it travels through a medium with increasing depth. This is because the energy of the wave is dissipated as it interacts with the particles of the medium.

What is the relationship between wavelength and amplitude?

The wavelength and amplitude of a wave are inversely proportional. This means that as the wavelength of a wave increases, the amplitude decreases, and vice versa.

Can the amplitude of a wave be negative?

Yes, the amplitude of a wave can be negative. This indicates that the particles of the medium are displaced in the opposite direction from their resting position.

How is the amplitude of a wave measured?

The amplitude of a wave is typically measured using units of distance, such as meters or centimeters, to represent the maximum displacement of particles from their resting position.

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