Clarification on Shallow Water Wave Equation

In summary, we can find the speed of a wave in shallow water using the equation c^2 = gh, which is derived from Bernoulli's theorem and the continuity equation. In a reference frame moving with the wave, these equations can be simplified to V^2=gh.
  • #1
poilop
2
0
I know that we can find the speed of the wave in shallow water by:
c^2 = gh
but how do we derive it?
 
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  • #2
We derive this using Bernoulli theorem and continuity equation.
In the reference frame which is moving along with the wave:
Bernoulli theorem:
[tex]\frac{V^2}{2}+gh=\frac{(V-\delta V)}{2}+g(h+a)[/tex]
continuity equation:
[tex]Vh=(V-\delta V)(h+a)[/tex]
where [tex]V[/tex] is the speed of the wave, [tex]\delta V[/tex] is a drop of the speed in the water where its level grows from the normal [tex]h[/tex] to [tex]h+a[/tex]
We suppose that [tex]h<\lambda[/tex] where [tex]\lambda[/tex] is a wavelength.
Form the second equation one has
[tex]h \delta V = a V[/tex] (*)
([tex]a \delta V[/tex] is very very small). Then from the fiirst we get [[tex](\delta V)^2[/tex] is also very small, so we ignore it]:
[tex]V \delta V = ga[/tex] and with (*) one has
[tex]V^2=gh[/tex]
 
Last edited:
  • #3
awesome,
thank you
 

What is the shallow water wave equation?

The shallow water wave equation is a mathematical model that describes the behavior of waves in shallow water, such as the waves seen at the beach or in a lake.

What are the assumptions made in the shallow water wave equation?

The shallow water wave equation assumes that the water depth is much smaller than the wavelength of the waves, and that the wave amplitudes are relatively small. It also assumes that there is no wind or other external forces acting on the water.

How is the shallow water wave equation derived?

The shallow water wave equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equations, which describe the motion of fluids. By applying simplifying assumptions and using the principle of conservation of mass and momentum, the shallow water wave equation can be derived.

What are the applications of the shallow water wave equation?

The shallow water wave equation has various applications in oceanography, coastal engineering, and weather forecasting. It is used to predict the behavior of tsunamis, storm surges, and tides, and to design structures such as breakwaters and harbors.

What are the limitations of the shallow water wave equation?

The shallow water wave equation is only applicable to waves in shallow water, and cannot accurately model waves in deep water. It also does not take into account the effects of wind, currents, and other external forces on the water. Additionally, it assumes a linear relationship between wave height and wavelength, which may not always hold true in real-world scenarios.

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