- #36
DaveC426913
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I've been looking at their stuff, yeah.phinds said:
Not exactly sure what that one you linked to is supposed to do...
I've been looking at their stuff, yeah.phinds said:
Never having owned one, I was unaware of the rocking problem. Is that because they are accurately modeled to the point that they have suspension systems? If so, can the springs be removed and replaced with something more sensible like JB Weld? As to staying on the track, I figured that you'd just hold the thing down by hand. If not, some sort of hold-down mechanism such as siderunner wheels might work. I suspect that you would need to mill grooves in the vertical faces of the rails for that, though.DaveC426913 said:That's an idea. Though I see two problems:
1] They tend to rock. I'd need ... four?
2] They tend not to stay on the tracks. I'd be constantly having to put it back together.
But the gist of it - trucks on tracks might be modifiable. Hm.
DaveC426913 said:I've been looking at their stuff, yeah.
Not exactly sure what that one you linked to is supposed to do...
Yes. They have same issues with leaning into and going around curves and the "prototypes"* do, just writ small.Danger said:Is that because they are accurately modeled to the point that they have suspension systems?
Yeah. This has got me thinkin'Danger said:If so, can the springs be removed and replaced with something more sensible like JB Weld? As to staying on the track, I figured that you'd just hold the thing down by hand. If not, some sort of hold-down mechanism such as siderunner wheels might work. I suspect that you would need to mill grooves in the vertical faces of the rails for that, though.
Together, we can rule the world. I believe that one of my first posts on PF detailed the bother that went into my Alien Hallowe'en costume. The jaw/tongue drive mechanism alone included a brass gear from a Mechano clockwork motor, a section of garage door track, a seatbelt shroud, the carriage rack and bevel gears from a 1920's era Smith-Corona typewriter, a baseball batter's helmet, a tongue-activated momentary contact DPDT toggle switch, 4 metres of welding rod, a cupboard door hinge and also the magnetic latch from the same, a sheet of aluminum grill, the 6-way power seat motor pack from a '67 Mustang, about a square metre of galvanized sheet steel (furnace ducting), a welding helmet, and a bunch of other stuff that I can't even remember. That helmet was heavy. I caused a bit of pain to some folks on the dance floor, but nobody was actually injured. The whole thing, including air conditioning and tail-drive motor, was powered from a 12 volt 6 amp-hour gel cell battery from an alarm system with a motorcycle recharger built into the tail for sitting next to a wall socket and juicing up. It took a fair while to build and cost about $300, including the deep-sea wetsuit that I originally used as the base body material, but nabbed me a bit more than that in bar costume contest prizes. All in all, it was worth the discomfort.DaveC426913 said:You and I think alike. I'm pretty fast & loose with bashing other equipment to get what I want. Drives em crazy at Home Depot, when I try to describe what I'm cobbling together, but can't describe an actual piece of something.
DaveC426913 said:Something like these would do. But I doubt they're affordable.
].
I wasn't actually thinking of that, but I'm sure that it could be done somehow or other. That's way beyond my knowledge. Maybe someone in the Computer section can come up with something along that line. I merely meant that instead of positioning the Dremel manually, you could apply current to the drive motor to get it into place and let the drivetrain mechanism hold it there.DaveC426913 said:What are you saying'? I could program my cuts?