Macho Vehicle Modification Challenge - Any Advice Welcome!

In summary, A man is seeking advice on how to make his classic 1960 motorbike go faster. He is willing to spend 3g on improvements, but many people advise against it. Some suggest starting with upgrades to the intake and exhaust systems, while others warn of the potential risks and costs. The man is determined to make his bike faster, but some advise him to find a similar model to tune instead. Others suggest seeking advice from forums and experts on his specific bike model.
  • #1
wolram
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Any enviromentalists do not look .

So do you want a fast vehicle? i am trying to get a classic 1960 motorbike
to go faster, i know it will never reach current motorbike standards, but it is the challenge, with some nostalgia ,that drives me, any engine gurus out there? if so your advice would be much appriciated.
What is your macho vehicle, car, bike, aircraft, whatever? and how much would you be willing to spend to go faster?
 
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  • #2
Why get a faster bike?

The money you will spend making it go faster can buy you a faster bike.

Plus, why would you ruin a classic 1960 bike?

Personally, it would cost you a hell of a lot. Have any ideas of how much it would cost? Think thousands.
 
  • #3
JasonRox said:
Why get a faster bike?

The money you will spend making it go faster can buy you a faster bike.

Plus, why would you ruin a classic 1960 bike?

Personally, it would cost you a hell of a lot. Have any ideas of how much it would cost? Think thousands.

I all ready have the bike Jason, and i have about 3g to spend on improving it.
 
  • #4
Let's have some details, Woolie. What kind of engine and driveline? Aerodynamic attributes? Pix...?
 
  • #5
I'd say stay simple and improve on your Intake and Exhaust systems. You will most like need better jets after doing so.

Look into bigger and better intake and carbs. I have no clue how much that would cost though.
 
  • #6
Danger said:
Let's have some details, Woolie. What kind of engine and driveline? Aerodynamic attributes? Pix...?
http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f184/wolram/

350 velo, no aerodynamics, chain drive.

you are right Jason, the head is the best place to start, but i need info on cam, cr, ratio etc, etc.
 
  • #7
I don't think your asking the right question in this forum, I would listen to only 3 people's opinions on that matter: (1) turbo-1, (2) Brewnog and (3) Danger.
 
  • #8
cyrusabdollahi said:
I don't think your asking the right question in this forum, I would listen to only 3 people's opinions on that matter: (1) turbo-1, (2) Brewnog and (3) Danger.

:approve: But now you guys have a rep to keep:smile:
 
  • #9
Wolram, go find yourself a forum dedicated to the exact brand of your motorbike. You will find lots of people who have experience in modifying the exact model of your bike. They will tell you what you could do and what to stay away from. With all due respect, I don't think anyone in here will give you sound advice on your particular bike.
 
  • #10
cyrusabdollahi said:
Wolram, go find yourself a forum dedicated to the exact brand of your motorbike. You will find lots of people who have experience in modifying the exact model of your bike. They will tell you what you could do and what to stay away from. With all due respect, I don't think anyone in here will give you sound advice on your particular bike.

You are right Cyrus, but there is no info out there, i have asked in all the
noted forums but come up blank, it seems the velo is a black hole when it comes to tunning.
 
  • #11
Then ask yourself, are you prepared to spend 3g's and see no change in performance, or possibly do serious damage to the bike?

Do you know how much is going to be pushing the bike to a safe limit? Do you want to find this out as your are riding down a road? I would not.

If I were you, I would leave that nice bike alone and tune a POS bike that you don't care about (same model and brand, if you can find one).
 
  • #12
cyrusabdollahi said:
Then ask yourself, are you prepared to spend 3g's and see no change in performance, or possibly do serious damage to the bike?

Do you know how much is going to be pushing the bike to a safe limit? Do you want to find this out as your are riding down a road? I would not.

If I were you, I would leave that nice bike alone and tune a POS bike that you don't care about (same model and brand, if you can find one).

But Cyrus that would not be a chalenge, i want an oldie that goes fast and i
have nothing else to spend my money on.
 
  • #14
Oh, that's the same one from your "I'm In Love" thread. I'm surprised that you'd want to tamper with it. It's a thumper, right?
I don't know how common they are in the UK, but it would definitely be considered 'exotic' over here.
Cyrus is right; proceed with caution. Some of the things that might need to be done aren't reversible. To start with, I'd upgrade the brakes to be suitable for whatever new top speed you manage. Some sort of fairing would be nice too, to keep you from getting blown off of the thing and reduce air resistance.
Before we start thinking about engine mods, remember that the easiest way to get more top end is to change your sprocket ratio and/or use a larger diameter rear tire. The trade-off is that your acceleration will be slower.

PS: Thanks for the compliment, Cyrus. I'd throw my money behind Fred Garvin and Astronuc on this too, though, and Hypatia if she's as good with bikes as she is with cars.
 
  • #15
Danger i want an exotic thumper that goes fast:smile: no fairing, maybe clip ons and rearsets, she is a lovely bike but i must push the envelope.
 
  • #16
jet engine
 
  • #17
Okay, then. Here are a few starting points.
Bore and stroke the motor for more displacement. Find out how much it can be safely bored, and go about .030" less than that. You want to leave some leeway for a re-bore or honing if you need it later. Stroking will also increase your compression ratio, so choose your new piston with that in mind. I don't know what your fuel quality is like over there; here you're pushing it at 10:1. If you're going to put a blower on it, stay at 8:1 or so. That ratio will also partially determine how you have to set your ignition timing.
Get the highest lift cam you can find, but choose the duration, dwell, overlap etc. based upon what RPM range you want your power band to be in. Likewise your intake pipe. Generally speaking, a longer runner gives a higher RPM 'pipe'. Port and polish the head and the intake and exhaust pipes (does this thing even have an intake pipe, or is the carb mounted to the head? I'm not used to single-cylinder jobs).
I always recommend putting a rev-limiter on anything that's going to be wound out with any regularity. It can save your engine (and maybe your ass) if you shell your chain at full throttle.
It might also be a good idea to put larger fins on the head for additional cooling.
Oh yeah... don't forget to shorten the forks so you'll be driving downhill all the time. :biggrin:
 
  • #18
Go faster? Why would you want to go faster? The most you're going to be doing is probably around 75 on most highways. Maybe 85 on the highways out west.

Am I wrong to assume that most cars/motorcycles are capable of going that fast? I would be afraid to go that fast on a motorcycle though.
 
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  • #20
dav2008 said:
Go faster? Why would you want to go faster? The most you're going to be doing is probably around 75 on most highways. Maybe 85 on the highways out west.
Hahaha, you're joking, right? A person who has a sports bike usually cruises at 160 mph on any highway and hits 200 mph a couple times a day. You've no idea how easy this is on a bike. They don't care about passing a cop with a radar, since they're impossible to catch anyway. I have a friend who has a CBR 929, he does 160 mph all the time, he never stops for police and he's never been caught.

Seriously, I usually cruise at around 100 mph in my slow Sentra, occasionally going up to 120 mph , not faster just because it doesn't go any faster, and it takes a year to reach that speed.
 
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  • #21
ToxicBug said:
Hahaha, you're joking, right? A person who has a sports bike usually cruises at 160 mph on any highway and hits 200 mph a couple times a day. You've no idea how easy this is on a bike. They don't care about passing a cop with a radar, since they're impossible to catch anyway. I have a friend who has a CBR 929, he does 160 mph all the time, he never stops for police and he's never been caught.

Seriously, I usually cruise at around 100 mph in my slow Sentra, occasionally going up to 120 mph , not faster just because it doesn't go any faster, and it takes a year to reach that speed.

Well I hope the police catch up to him if he crashes into a wall at 180mph :biggrin:
 
  • #22
ToxicBug said:
Hahaha, you're joking, right? A person who has a sports bike usually cruises at 160 mph on any highway and hits 200 mph a couple times a day. You've no idea how easy this is on a bike. They don't care about passing a cop with a radar, since they're impossible to catch anyway. I have a friend who has a CBR 929, he does 160 mph all the time, he never stops for police and he's never been caught.

Seriously, I usually cruise at around 100 mph in my slow Sentra, occasionally going up to 120 mph , not faster just because it doesn't go any faster, and it takes a year to reach that speed.
To put it bluntly going 160 mph on a motorcycle (or in any vehicle, but especially a motorcycle) on our highway system is stupid.
 
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  • #23
dav2008 said:
To put it bluntly going 160 mph on a motorcycle (or in any vehicle, but especially a motorcycle) on our highway system is stupid.
Of course its stupid, but this is called going fast and that's what motorcycles are made for. Why else do you think that surgeons call bikers donors?
 
  • #24
sorry but sell the nice old bike and buy a newer one
you have a push rod OHV set up and that's just too old teck
even with new cams head work and bore and stroke work
it just can NOT rev very high by design
it still will be slower the the avg modern 250cc bike
but willNOT last very long as a newer bike even with all the work done right

the brakes frame forks and rear swing arms/shocks
are all to dated to support extra power
as are the cases and crank and trans
what will break first is the problem even if only moderately hoped up

by the time and work is done to get a bike of that age redone
you will have spent tooo much and distroyed the value of the bike
and will have a unrelieable ride without value or any real power

btw my older brother raced bikes in the 50-60s
and his kid raced in the 80s
and I have owned quite a few myself
 
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1. What is the Macho Vehicle Modification challenge?

The Macho Vehicle Modification challenge is a competition where participants are tasked with modifying a vehicle to enhance its physical appearance and performance. The goal is to create a unique and "macho" vehicle that stands out from the rest.

2. Who can participate in the challenge?

The challenge is open to anyone with a passion for vehicle modification and a desire to showcase their skills and creativity. Both individuals and teams can participate, and there are typically no age restrictions.

3. What are the criteria for judging in the challenge?

The vehicles will be judged based on their overall appearance, originality, functionality, and practicality. The judges will also consider the level of difficulty and quality of the modifications made.

4. Are there any restrictions on the type of vehicle that can be modified?

No, there are no specific restrictions on the type of vehicle that can be modified for the challenge. However, it is recommended to choose a vehicle that can be easily modified and has enough space to showcase the modifications.

5. What advice do you have for participants in the Macho Vehicle Modification challenge?

Some advice for participants includes setting a budget, planning and designing the modifications beforehand, and paying attention to detail. It's also essential to have a clear vision and to be creative and unique in your modifications.

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