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I started this topic to introduce one of my hobbies which is woodworking, and so that others can also showcase their skills, abilities and builds. It doesn't have to be just woodwork, this can include projects, electronics, metal fabrication, mechanical ect. Just include all your steps math and chemistry and science or whatever went into your creation along with all the blood sweat and tears. In my post, I will include all measurements, dimensions, materials, hardware, methods, tools, along with tips tricks, problems "and solutions" I came up with along the way. I will include pictures of tools some of the math and all that went into my manufacturing process with photos of my project in the raw...and after that a completely finished work of art.
The start,
It all started with a trip to a furniture store and my Girl friend had a hard time trying to to select a set of end tables to go with the couch and recliner we purchased. I made the casual comment that " I could build a set better then any they have in here" all of which were over priced for what they were, (assembly line particle board tables with fake vinyl veneer on top. The few "real wood pieces they had were outrageously priced. She said ok build me some, me and my big mouth..lol
Well now I had to deliver so we went to the hardware store up the street and began the martial and hardware selection process.
I began by envisioning a basic design in my head. I pictured a simple table with a drawer and a magazine rack on the bottom.
The material:
So I purchased 8 premade wooden legs, 1, 4'x11 1/2''x 3/4'' pine 1, 4'x17 3/8" x 3/4 inch piece of raw project grade pine. 1 piece of 4'x 22" x 3/4, 16'x3 1/2" x 3/4" pine blank, 16' x 5 1/2" x 3/4" pine blank, 4, 1 1/2''x1 1/2"x 8' a few 3/8" dowel rods a few 5/16" dowel rods. 2 brass handles and 4 18" drawer slides. 150 grit sand paper 200 grit sandpaper L brackets straight brackets, wood screws, stain, polyurethane, foam brushes, stainable wood glue, stainable wood filler, finishing nails and a 12 pack of cokezero cause I was in for the long hall at this point.
The tools:
I did this all in our sun room which is a small space but just large enough for a couple of saw bucks and my power tools. I used a Jigsaw, a circular saw, a hand drill, a wood router, and an elliptical sander "jitter bug". Hand tools: combination square, carpenters square, calipers, tape measure hammer nail punch putty knife, utility knife, pliers, screwdrivers
The cuts:
First I had to cut the legs to size because the were pre made for other type projects I had to cut them down to meet my needs. I had (8) legs to cut all uneven surfaces and they all had to be reasonably square and I have NO TABLE SAW. Hummm...I was a welder fabricator at one time so I did what a fabricator does, I made a jig..lol. The legs were 28 inches long an meant to screw directly into a table top. My tables had to be 26 inches period from floor to top. so I jigs up my legs to cut them at 22" taking off only 5 15/16" inches, I did not take into consideration the thickness of the wood and miscalculated 9 inches lol. Plus the legs were a slight bit off square to begin with, so cutting more off wasn't a problem. Then I cut the tops, I would have liked them to be 24''x 22'' but I only had 4 feet so I cut them (2) 23 15/16"x 22" got to allow for your blade width. I then cut (2) drawer cabinet bottoms which I made at 20x17 3/8". (4) cabinet sides 20''x5 1/2'' and (2) cabinet backs 15 1/8'' x5 1/2''. I cut the drawer it self out of (2) ,11 1/2'' x 18'' the 3 1/2'' sides I cut (4) 19 1/2''x 3 1/2'' and (4) 11 1/2''x 3 1/2'' and the drawer face I cut out (2) 17 3/8''X 5 1/2''
I trimmed the cabinet bottom with (4) 3 1/2'' x 20'' and (4) 3 1/2'' x 18 7/8''
"remember my blue print is in my head not on paper and I'm doing most of the math in my head, I am actually writing this at work from memory"
Lay out :
I started with the base and traced the legs which were octagonal in shape on the end, and finding the center point which was 13 5/8'' on center for the front and rear and 16 5/8'' on center for both sides. so I cut (4) 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' x 14 1/2'' pieces for structural side support and (4) 12 1/2'' piece for the front and rear (8) 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' x 5 1/2'' structural for the inside cabinet support...(yes its over kill but I built them to withstand my children's, children's, children's, abuse...or...who knows when you might have to use an end table that can support a small truck...lol)
The build:
I first constructed the base for the cabinet and framed it with the 3 1/2'' pine and routed a beveled edge on both sides for trim work. Using finishing nails and 5/16" dowel rod.
I then attached the legs to the base, using (4) L brackets and 1/2" long screws glue and 3/8" dowel rod. I also put a finishing nail and long wood screw through the top of the base. Problem, That's when I realized they would be much to tall and there was and an error in calculation, Solution (got out the pen and paper and did some refiguring) and the balls on the end of the legs were just the right length to remove and make them the right height. Since the legs were machined and segmented unless you seen the legs as they were as one whole piece, you'd never know the difference.
After securing the legs I built the cabinet separate with the 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' supports and the 5 1/2'' pine. I cut 2 more pieces of 1/12'' x 1 1/2'' stock 2 1/2 '' long to add horizontally at the bottom of the cabinet to help attach it and act as (guide for the drawer) then used (4) L brackets to attach the cabinet to the base along with glue and dowel rod.
I then built the drawer out of the 11 1/2'' and framed it with the 3 1/2'' pieces of pine. I then attached the drawer glides to the base and mounted the drawer to the glides. After fitting I took the 20'' x 17 3/8'' x 5 1/2'' piece and routed a beveled edge around the piece for the drawer face then clamped and glued to the drawer. then I measured for the center from top to bottom and side to side...the handles are 3'' on center from the middle of the drawer. (The trick, locate and mount the glides to the drawer first, put the drawer in the cabinet and pull the slide out to the first screw hole...I used pennies as spacers once I knew the drawer was straight I pulled it out to the next mounting point). Easy peasy.
Finally I mount the table top, I just center it on the drawer cabinet and finish nailed and glued it in place, I then located the center of each of the cabinet supports and drilled 3/8'' dowel pegs to secure it. Then I routed the beveled edge on top.
The finishing touch: I took the left over 3 1/2'' pieces and some 9 12'' x 3/4'' long pine scrap I had and made a magazine shelf in the shape of an capital "I" with the grain running in 2 different directions I dowel pegged and glued those pieces together then beveled them also. I attached them to the legs located 3'' from the floor, Tip (when working with wood making tables if the legs are "splayed" and things are a little out of square adding trim or a magazine shelf can square it up for you plus its a nice decorative touch with a purpose.) I'll add more pictures after staining and poly.
The start,
It all started with a trip to a furniture store and my Girl friend had a hard time trying to to select a set of end tables to go with the couch and recliner we purchased. I made the casual comment that " I could build a set better then any they have in here" all of which were over priced for what they were, (assembly line particle board tables with fake vinyl veneer on top. The few "real wood pieces they had were outrageously priced. She said ok build me some, me and my big mouth..lol
Well now I had to deliver so we went to the hardware store up the street and began the martial and hardware selection process.
I began by envisioning a basic design in my head. I pictured a simple table with a drawer and a magazine rack on the bottom.
The material:
So I purchased 8 premade wooden legs, 1, 4'x11 1/2''x 3/4'' pine 1, 4'x17 3/8" x 3/4 inch piece of raw project grade pine. 1 piece of 4'x 22" x 3/4, 16'x3 1/2" x 3/4" pine blank, 16' x 5 1/2" x 3/4" pine blank, 4, 1 1/2''x1 1/2"x 8' a few 3/8" dowel rods a few 5/16" dowel rods. 2 brass handles and 4 18" drawer slides. 150 grit sand paper 200 grit sandpaper L brackets straight brackets, wood screws, stain, polyurethane, foam brushes, stainable wood glue, stainable wood filler, finishing nails and a 12 pack of cokezero cause I was in for the long hall at this point.
The tools:
I did this all in our sun room which is a small space but just large enough for a couple of saw bucks and my power tools. I used a Jigsaw, a circular saw, a hand drill, a wood router, and an elliptical sander "jitter bug". Hand tools: combination square, carpenters square, calipers, tape measure hammer nail punch putty knife, utility knife, pliers, screwdrivers
The cuts:
First I had to cut the legs to size because the were pre made for other type projects I had to cut them down to meet my needs. I had (8) legs to cut all uneven surfaces and they all had to be reasonably square and I have NO TABLE SAW. Hummm...I was a welder fabricator at one time so I did what a fabricator does, I made a jig..lol. The legs were 28 inches long an meant to screw directly into a table top. My tables had to be 26 inches period from floor to top. so I jigs up my legs to cut them at 22" taking off only 5 15/16" inches, I did not take into consideration the thickness of the wood and miscalculated 9 inches lol. Plus the legs were a slight bit off square to begin with, so cutting more off wasn't a problem. Then I cut the tops, I would have liked them to be 24''x 22'' but I only had 4 feet so I cut them (2) 23 15/16"x 22" got to allow for your blade width. I then cut (2) drawer cabinet bottoms which I made at 20x17 3/8". (4) cabinet sides 20''x5 1/2'' and (2) cabinet backs 15 1/8'' x5 1/2''. I cut the drawer it self out of (2) ,11 1/2'' x 18'' the 3 1/2'' sides I cut (4) 19 1/2''x 3 1/2'' and (4) 11 1/2''x 3 1/2'' and the drawer face I cut out (2) 17 3/8''X 5 1/2''
I trimmed the cabinet bottom with (4) 3 1/2'' x 20'' and (4) 3 1/2'' x 18 7/8''
"remember my blue print is in my head not on paper and I'm doing most of the math in my head, I am actually writing this at work from memory"
Lay out :
I started with the base and traced the legs which were octagonal in shape on the end, and finding the center point which was 13 5/8'' on center for the front and rear and 16 5/8'' on center for both sides. so I cut (4) 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' x 14 1/2'' pieces for structural side support and (4) 12 1/2'' piece for the front and rear (8) 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' x 5 1/2'' structural for the inside cabinet support...(yes its over kill but I built them to withstand my children's, children's, children's, abuse...or...who knows when you might have to use an end table that can support a small truck...lol)
The build:
I first constructed the base for the cabinet and framed it with the 3 1/2'' pine and routed a beveled edge on both sides for trim work. Using finishing nails and 5/16" dowel rod.
I then attached the legs to the base, using (4) L brackets and 1/2" long screws glue and 3/8" dowel rod. I also put a finishing nail and long wood screw through the top of the base. Problem, That's when I realized they would be much to tall and there was and an error in calculation, Solution (got out the pen and paper and did some refiguring) and the balls on the end of the legs were just the right length to remove and make them the right height. Since the legs were machined and segmented unless you seen the legs as they were as one whole piece, you'd never know the difference.
After securing the legs I built the cabinet separate with the 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2'' supports and the 5 1/2'' pine. I cut 2 more pieces of 1/12'' x 1 1/2'' stock 2 1/2 '' long to add horizontally at the bottom of the cabinet to help attach it and act as (guide for the drawer) then used (4) L brackets to attach the cabinet to the base along with glue and dowel rod.
I then built the drawer out of the 11 1/2'' and framed it with the 3 1/2'' pieces of pine. I then attached the drawer glides to the base and mounted the drawer to the glides. After fitting I took the 20'' x 17 3/8'' x 5 1/2'' piece and routed a beveled edge around the piece for the drawer face then clamped and glued to the drawer. then I measured for the center from top to bottom and side to side...the handles are 3'' on center from the middle of the drawer. (The trick, locate and mount the glides to the drawer first, put the drawer in the cabinet and pull the slide out to the first screw hole...I used pennies as spacers once I knew the drawer was straight I pulled it out to the next mounting point). Easy peasy.
Finally I mount the table top, I just center it on the drawer cabinet and finish nailed and glued it in place, I then located the center of each of the cabinet supports and drilled 3/8'' dowel pegs to secure it. Then I routed the beveled edge on top.
The finishing touch: I took the left over 3 1/2'' pieces and some 9 12'' x 3/4'' long pine scrap I had and made a magazine shelf in the shape of an capital "I" with the grain running in 2 different directions I dowel pegged and glued those pieces together then beveled them also. I attached them to the legs located 3'' from the floor, Tip (when working with wood making tables if the legs are "splayed" and things are a little out of square adding trim or a magazine shelf can square it up for you plus its a nice decorative touch with a purpose.) I'll add more pictures after staining and poly.
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Dunno what to say.
