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I need a mechanic

  1. Aug 19, 2009 #1
    How do you remove the electric window motor from inside the door of a truck?
  2. jcsd
  3. Aug 19, 2009 #2
    very carefully
  4. Aug 19, 2009 #3


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    Step 1: Identify the make, model and year of the vehicle.

    Step 2: Purchase the appropriate Chilton or Haynes manual for said vehicle.

    Step 3: Locate the chapter on window motor replacement and follow the instructions.
  5. Aug 19, 2009 #4


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    Step 4: After stripping a bolt or two, find a friend who is a mechanic and barter (an invitation to a BBQ steak dinner would be a good trade).
  6. Aug 19, 2009 #5
    It always involves first removing the door handle then the inner door panel. Make sure there is no electrical problem with the window switch before removing the drive motor.
  7. Aug 19, 2009 #6


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    Take the interior door furniture off, remove the door card, unplug the motor, undo the fasteners.
  8. Aug 19, 2009 #7
    The problem is I took the door panel off and I can see part of the motor, but it's inside the door and there aren't any screws. I see rivets.
  9. Aug 19, 2009 #8


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    That's why you get the proper repair manual. It will tell you exactly, step-by-step how to do this. A bunch of random science geeks on the internet, not so much.
  10. Aug 19, 2009 #9


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    Spoil sport! I prefer Lisa's instructions. :biggrin:
  11. Aug 19, 2009 #10
    I prefer random science geeks to manuals. Its this damn illiteracy of mine.
  12. Aug 19, 2009 #11
    I need to change the title of this thread. It is no longer "I need a mechanic" now it is "I need a doctor" I just cut the hell out of my finger.
  13. Aug 19, 2009 #12


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    That's usually a given in your threads. Just grab the duct tape you were going to use to reassemble your door, and wrap it around your finger instead.
  14. Aug 19, 2009 #13
    Preferably one who is cute and single... if things work out you might never need a mechanic again.

    (hhhm... I'm the mechanic in our house... think I've been had!)

    Aside: do be sure to disconnect the battery first:
    Disconnect negative terminal before positive. (And reconnect positive before negative.)

    Neglect this step and you'll really need a doctor.
  15. Aug 19, 2009 #14


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    This is some good thinking. I'm changing my dream girl from physics nerd to auto mechanic.

    Wait! You're actually good at both?! That's two of the dream assets that my dream girl would have!

    Can you kill, skin, and gut a narwhal with only a kayak and a Swiss army knife?!
  16. Aug 19, 2009 #15

    Ivan Seeking

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    Of all the things on a car that are a bugger to access, window assemblies can be some of the worst. I know that some require special tools made for the application. IIRC, it was my MG Midget that was just plain absurd unless you have hands smaller than an inch in width. Of course you needed three people to bleed the brakes as well, so that car was a pain all the way around! [at least this was true if you didn't have all of the special tools]

    I used to do everything like this myself, but life is so much better when someone else is the mechanic. I won't even change the oil myself anymore. :biggrin:
  17. Aug 19, 2009 #16
    If you can get at the rivets drill them out and replace them with small bolts and nuts. A nut and bolt package may come with the replacement motor.

    That is why mechanics charge so damn much.
  18. Aug 19, 2009 #17
    Yep it does get to where it isn't fun anymore.:frown:

    I think the worst job I ever tackled was changing the heater core on my daughter's 84 Mustang. It required dropping the steering column and removing the entire dash.

    At the point where I was hanging upside down with my head under the dash and my feet and ankles wrapped over the top of the seat for support I decided never again.
  19. Aug 19, 2009 #18


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    Professional locksmith to the rescue!
    To start with, we don't need to go through the panel access procedure since you have already accomplished that. Having really skinny arms, like me, is helpful, and I have still sliced myself to ribbons accessing mechanisms within door panels.
    There is no excuse in the world for having the unit riveted in. Are you sure that they aren't screws for which you can't see the heads properly from your angle of vision? Check it out with a flexible mirror and flashlight to be sure. If they are rivets, just go in with a Dremel tool and grind the heads off. Then knock the remaining stubs out with a drift punch.
    If worst comes to worst, cut the whole damned panel out with a grinder or even a hacksaw, do what you have to do, then weld the panel back into place.

    edit: Oh crap! I just suggested letting the Dog loose with a welder?! Delete this post, for the sake of his neighbours. :eek:
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2009
  20. Aug 20, 2009 #19
    I just went through this. Now the gear alignment is screwy and the plastic panel is broken in two. It's a GM. Have pitty on me; I've done my part in the support of generous pensions.
  21. Aug 20, 2009 #20

    Rip it out.

    If you want it replaced give me a call. :-)
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