Mechanical Pencils: Find the Best Performer!

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In summary: It is a little more expensive than some of the others, but it is worth it in my opinion.In summary, the Papermate PhD Ultra is a great choice for a mechanical pencil. It is durable, has a great eraser, and is comfortable to hold.
  • #1
sir_manning
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Good evening

I can't speak for anyone else, but I am a pencil sort of guy - mechanical pencils to be specific. However, I have met with disappointment after disappointment when trying to find a specific brand that will outlast the punishment experienced at the bottom of my bag. I've tried Staedlers, Bics, Papermates... most of your department store brands. Yet after awhile, the clicking mechanism just stops working, or the eraser head falls out, or the clip snaps...

Can anyone nominate a superstar performer?
 
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  • #2
sir_manning said:
Good evening

I can't speak for anyone else, but I am a pencil sort of guy - mechanical pencils to be specific. However, I have met with disappointment after disappointment when trying to find a specific brand that will outlast the punishment experienced at the bottom of my bag. I've tried Staedlers, Bics, Papermates... most of your department store brands. Yet after awhile, the clicking mechanism just stops working, or the eraser head falls out, or the clip snaps...

Can anyone nominate a superstar performer?
I am fond of mechanical pencils too, being a sketcher and one who likes detail.

My take: Who cares if the clip snaps or the eraser falls out? As long as it keeps dispensing lead, I'm golden. I use a proper artgum eraser to erase.

As for the clicking mechanism failing - are you sure? I know that sometimes it will click but not dispense teh next lead. Give it a shake, stand it upright - and keep clicking. Eventually the next lead should "engage".
 
  • #3
I never go anywhere without a .5mm pencil. I use a separate eraser 'pencil'. After trying just about everything on the market, and had them break in my pocket, I just said to hell with it and bought a 5-pack of Bic pencils. That was over 5 years ago, and I still have 2 left. Go figure... the cheapest thing on the market lasts the longest. :rolleyes:
 
  • #4
I keep mechanical pencils in my pocket or clipped on the collar of my T-shirt, unless I'm doing something physical like lifting logs, and then I make sure I'm not wearing pens or pencils. I have spare mechanical pencils in my desks.

I think I had Pentel which was nice, but somewhere along the way, I lost it. :rolleyes:

Now I have Mon Ami (Korea) which is nice, but it's plastic, and would probably break. I've had metal mechanical pencil which seem pretty durable, but I didn't like the grip because it was too smooth.

I use pink erasers which I keep in my pocket, and spares in my desks.
 
  • #5
Ah, yes... Pentel. I used them for draughting (4H for construction lines and 2H for final). They're great, but I found that the 'nibs' bent in my pocket so the lead couldn't feed out. I should point out that I keep my pens and pencils in my front pants pocket, so that problem might not occur with more 'geeky' types who keep them in a shirt pocket. :tongue:
 
  • #6
sir_manning said:
Good evening

I can't speak for anyone else, but I am a pencil sort of guy - mechanical pencils to be specific. However, I have met with disappointment after disappointment when trying to find a specific brand that will outlast the punishment experienced at the bottom of my bag. I've tried Staedlers, Bics, Papermates... most of your department store brands. Yet after awhile, the clicking mechanism just stops working, or the eraser head falls out, or the clip snaps...
That's why they are disposable. :biggrin:

I use mechanical pencils instead of pens at work. I usually am given a dozen mechanical pencils at a time by the clerk. I've used cheap ones and I've used extremely expensive ones and I don't find much of a difference. The very expensive ones might last longer, but what I look for is comfort and find that the cheaper ones win out there.
 
  • #7
Love the Dr. Grips from Pilot! :!)

http://p.office1000.com/vp1/36170PIL.jpg [Broken]
 
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  • #8
http://www.artstuff.net/images/mh3660.jpg [Broken]

Japanese Zebra pencil. Lasted 4 years and still going strong.
 
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  • #9
Math Is Hard said:
Love the Dr. Grips from Pilot! :!)

http://p.office1000.com/vp1/36170PIL.jpg [Broken]
I[/URL] like those!
 
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  • #10
http://www.staples.com/sbd/img/cat/enl/s0048752_enl.jpg

I got to give a vote for the Papermate PhD Ultra (make sure you get the Ultra, not the regular). You can buy them at Staples for like 6 or 7 bucks. I bought my first one three or four years ago, and it was still working beautifully until I lost it a few months ago. I have bought others since then, and I love them :smile: The pencil is very solid (look at the barrel: it is one piece! and the grip is built right in, so it will never slip out or move on you). The eraser is very nice in my opinion (quality erasing, and it is like 1.5 inches long, and the replacements are easy to get). It has a great grip, and a very nice feel, imo :wink:This is the Ultra: http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?zipCode=87121&jspStoreDir=Staples&ci_sku=503202&catalogId=10051&errorUrl=zipcode&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Shopping-_-Office_Supplies_%3E_Pencils_-_-503202-46391&langId=-1&partNumber=503202&storeId=10001&ddkey=StaplesZipCodeAdd
This is the regular: http://www.papermate.com/sanford/consumer/papermate/jhtml/product/product_detail.jhtml?attributeId=SNATT40171&currentType=SNTYPE004&nextType=noValue&categoryType=SNTYPE001&categoryAttributeId=SNATT10012&resetAttribute=SNATT20068&resetType=SNTYPE002 [Broken]

The regular is not bad, but the Ultra is the real deal. I used the regular about 5 years ago, I think. I know the grip will eventually wear out and will start to slip and move on you. Also there are too many moving parts: everything can twist off on the barrel, which just means there is more to break (as opposed to the Ultra with its solid barrel).

edit.. Friday night, posting about my favorite mechanical pencil... what the hell has my life become :cry:
 
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  • #11
I don't like those big ass ones, but my dad sure does. Old joints I think...For me its got to be .5 mm. I second Cyrus choice of the Zebras they are sweet, and not very expensive.
 
  • #12
ZEBRAS are the shizzit. And I second Danger's separate pencil eraser. The one I use is basically a mechanical eraser. You 'click it' and the eraser gradually dispenses.

Cyrus, where do you get those Zebras?? Mine look way different. I am intrigued.
 
  • #13
I buy the Bic ones by the dozen. Anything more expensive just disappears next time I pick up my sketchbook.
 
  • #14
Well I'm trying out both the zebra and the pentels, both of which are performing admirably thus far. The PhD ultra looks like a fine tool, but I don't think I'm ready for something quite that intimidating this early in my academic career.
 
  • #15
Pilot is good, though I lost them a lot as many other people have them too (they just take it for their own). I have an unknown brand of mechanical pencil but I'm still using it.
 
  • #16
I like the skinny mech pencils, not fat ones.

I also tend to use pens - razor points.


Actually I do most of my work electronically since my handwriting tends to be illegible - even to me sometimes. :rolleyes:

I think too fast.
 
  • #17
Astronuc said:
I keep mechanical pencils in my pocket or clipped on the collar of my T-shirt, unless I'm doing something physical like lifting logs, and then I make sure I'm not wearing pens or pencils.
Lifting logs? I had no idea you were a closet lumberjack Astro!
 
  • #18
I have had the same pencil for over 10 years; it was made in Japan. It is a Berol CA7 XL, 0.7 mm.

(the "XL" means it has the extra features such as passenger-side air bags and automatic defrosters).

I prefer 0.7 mm leads, but that's just me. (I'm heavy-handed, and the 0.5's break too easily)

Edit:
Still available, but probably made in China now.
http://cascade.birddogsw.com/ItemFo...Category=b51cd200-dbcc-48e4-88ac-0edad767158e
 
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  • #19
Hootenanny said:
Lifting logs? I had no idea you were a closet lumberjack Astro!
I have some old (unhealthy or dying) trees on the property, which I need to cull. The previous landowner planted trees too close together.

Chi Meson reminded me of Berol. I prefer 0.5 mm. They don't break if one keeps the graphite short, so that the stress field is predominantly shear rather than bending.
 
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  • #20
Astronuc said:
I have some old (unhealthy or dying) trees on the property, which I need to cull. The previous landowner planted trees too close together.
Ahh right, do you have a really big axe and a checked shirt? :wink:
 
  • #21
Hootenanny said:
Ahh right, do you have a really big axe and a checked shirt? :wink:

I have checkered shirts - with pockets - for pens and pencils. I'm looking for a nice double-bladed axe.


Even my T-shirts (well most of them) have pockets. :biggrin:
 
  • #22
Pilots are OK for .5mm pencils. The cheapest versions don't last for me, but I have a nicer one that I've had forever. Give it a light click and it feeds lead - give it a heavy click and the entire tip retracts into the barrel (much safer if you're going to keep one in a pocket!). It also has a rotating ring with a window in it that you can twist to expose hardness numbers so you can remember what kind of leads it's loaded with. For larger lead, I have an old Scripto, and for the very large soft lead (2 mm) that's great for sketching, I have a Caran d'Ache Fixpencil. It's very old (at least 25-30 years), simple and rugged.
http://www.leadholder.com/lh-draft-cda-fixpencil.html
 
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  • #23
Math Is Hard said:
Love the Dr. Grips from Pilot! :!)

http://p.office1000.com/vp1/36170PIL.jpg [Broken]
[/URL]

Those are what I use too! (Apparently other people I work with like them too, because they seem to disappear on me :grumpy:...I think I need to check my boss' desk, he's a notorious pen thief.) I have used their mechanical pencils and rollerball pens for a few years now and love them (I still have two of the originals, though others have wandered off and been replaced...I keep a set at home, a set at work, and a set in my bag to travel). Recently I tried their "Center of Gravity" ballpoint pens...it's now my favoritest pen EVER! :approve: It's so comfortable to hold and balanced and incredibly smooth writing. I just wish they weren't all these bizarre colors.

The cheap plastic mechanical pencils will break quickly...that's why they're cheap and sold in packs of 5 or a dozen, because they don't last long. Sometimes you can refill them a few times and get them to last, but often they just jam up. But, almost any others that are sold individually for a couple bucks can last a long time...if you see a nearby display of replacement erasers for the brand you're buying, you probably have found one that's meant to last a little longer.

Of course, none is going to survive well if you're tossing them in the bottom of a backpack under 20 lbs of books. Use a separate pocket for your pencils, or get a hard pencil case to protect them (that'll make it easier to find them and know how many you have when you pack your bag for the day anyway...no showing up to an exam thinking you have a pencil and realizing you left them all on your desk).
 
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  • #25
I once designed a nice little pen that fired a single .22 Magnum round. Can I count that as my favourite? (Since there was no ink in it, I could just as easily call it a pencil. :uhh:)
 
  • #27
Astronuc said:
I also tend to use pens - razor points.

Can you elaborate upon that? I like an ultra-fine tip, since my normal writing is smaller than the type in a newspaper. (I also insist upon black ink, rather than blue, but I'm not sure why.) Other than Bics, which don't last long enough, the best that I've been able to come up with locally for a reasonable price is the Uni-Ball Vision Needle. It's really way too big and 'bleedy' for my taste.
 
  • #28
I could have put that pencil to good use back when I rebuilt/restored/repaired a lot of tube guitar amps. That resistor decoder is pretty snazzy!
 
  • #29
Danger said:
Other than Bics, which don't last long enough, the best that I've been able to come up with locally for a reasonable price is the Uni-Ball Vision Needle. It's really way too big and 'bleedy' for my taste.
I prefer the Pilot Easy-Touch fine point retractables. They'll put out a very fine line if you have a light touch, although if you're writing on a pad, you can bear down and get a respectably bold line.
 
  • #30
I haven't seen one of those around town, but I'll check the next time I'm in Calgary. It sounds pretty good.
 
  • #31
Saladsamurai said:
I want it...I need it...where can I get it!?

If you scroll down this page about RCA Pencils, you'll find that you can get one very similar for entirely free simply by purchasing RCA radio tubes.

Well, at least you could in the '30's. Try looking on e-Bay.
 
  • #32
BobG said:
If you scroll down this page about RCA Pencils, you'll find that you can get one very similar for entirely free simply by purchasing RCA radio tubes.

Well, at least you could in the '30's. Try looking on e-Bay.
I have quite a few RCA tubes that I have bought, tested, and set aside over the years. Nobody sent me a free pencil, though. To be fair, the old ham enthusiasts that I bought lots of my tubes from probably had one or two of these tucked away and wouldn't have thought of giving them away to some young whipper-snapper who wanted to buy all their decent 12AX7s, 6V6s, 6L6s and rectifier tubes. One old fellow had large console-sized TVs with tiny little picture tubes just a few inches across - I'd love to inherit his gear!
 
  • #33
Quit, already. You're getting me all nostalgic. :cry:
 
  • #34
Danger said:
Quit, already. You're getting me all nostalgic. :cry:
You want nostalgia? I bought a trashed '65 Fender Twin Reverb for $125, restored it, and sold it to a friend for a bargain-basement price of $500. Later, I bought a trashed and heavily modded '65 Deluxe Reverb, for $250, sold the too-accurate Altec Lansing speaker for $150, restored the amp to Fender specs and restored the tolex and grillcloth and installed an appropriate speaker. I played that amp professionally for years (great small-club amp), and eventually sold it for $900 at a guitar show. That little rascal didn't owe me anything, nor did my '66 Super Reverb or '59 Bassman RI. I earned money and had fun with all of them.
 
  • #35
Damn, I want an old Fender someday (preferably a Strat) and an old amp would be cool too, but I don't even know where to start.
 
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<h2>1. How do mechanical pencils work?</h2><p>Mechanical pencils have a small clutch mechanism inside that holds a thin lead refill. When you press the top button, the clutch releases the lead and pushes it out through the tip of the pencil. This allows for a continuous supply of lead without having to sharpen the pencil.</p><h2>2. What are the advantages of using a mechanical pencil?</h2><p>Mechanical pencils offer several advantages over traditional wooden pencils. They have a consistent fine point, do not require sharpening, and have a variety of lead sizes and types to choose from. They also allow for precise and clean writing or drawing.</p><h2>3. How do I choose the right lead size for my mechanical pencil?</h2><p>The lead size you choose depends on your personal preference and what you will be using the pencil for. For general writing and note-taking, 0.5mm or 0.7mm leads are recommended. For more detailed work, such as drawing or drafting, 0.3mm or 0.9mm leads may be more suitable.</p><h2>4. What makes a mechanical pencil a "high performer"?</h2><p>A high-performing mechanical pencil should have a sturdy and comfortable grip, a smooth and consistent lead advancement mechanism, and a durable construction. It should also have a good balance and weight for comfortable use and produce clean, precise lines without breaking the lead.</p><h2>5. How can I maintain and prolong the life of my mechanical pencil?</h2><p>To maintain your mechanical pencil, it is important to keep it clean and free of dust and debris. You can use a small brush or compressed air to clean out any particles that may clog the lead advancement mechanism. It is also important to store your pencil in a protective case or pouch when not in use to prevent damage. Finally, make sure to refill the lead before it runs out completely to avoid any potential damage to the pencil's mechanism.</p>

1. How do mechanical pencils work?

Mechanical pencils have a small clutch mechanism inside that holds a thin lead refill. When you press the top button, the clutch releases the lead and pushes it out through the tip of the pencil. This allows for a continuous supply of lead without having to sharpen the pencil.

2. What are the advantages of using a mechanical pencil?

Mechanical pencils offer several advantages over traditional wooden pencils. They have a consistent fine point, do not require sharpening, and have a variety of lead sizes and types to choose from. They also allow for precise and clean writing or drawing.

3. How do I choose the right lead size for my mechanical pencil?

The lead size you choose depends on your personal preference and what you will be using the pencil for. For general writing and note-taking, 0.5mm or 0.7mm leads are recommended. For more detailed work, such as drawing or drafting, 0.3mm or 0.9mm leads may be more suitable.

4. What makes a mechanical pencil a "high performer"?

A high-performing mechanical pencil should have a sturdy and comfortable grip, a smooth and consistent lead advancement mechanism, and a durable construction. It should also have a good balance and weight for comfortable use and produce clean, precise lines without breaking the lead.

5. How can I maintain and prolong the life of my mechanical pencil?

To maintain your mechanical pencil, it is important to keep it clean and free of dust and debris. You can use a small brush or compressed air to clean out any particles that may clog the lead advancement mechanism. It is also important to store your pencil in a protective case or pouch when not in use to prevent damage. Finally, make sure to refill the lead before it runs out completely to avoid any potential damage to the pencil's mechanism.

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