Physical oceanography: Waves

In summary, a former sea captain recalls a stormy night in the Atlantic where he observed waves with wavelengths of a few metres passing his 51m long ship in less than 3s. The question is whether or not we should believe him. To answer this, we need to consider the group velocity and phase speed of waves, as well as the vessel's speed and a formula for calculating the velocity of deep water waves.
  • #1
starfire123
2
0
A former sea captain recounts a stormy night in Atlantic when he observed waves with wavelengths of a few metres passing his 51m long ship in less than 3s. Should you believe him?

How do we go about answering this question? I have no idea where to start from, well, we learned about group velocity and phase speed of waves, but I don't know how to use them to answer the question?
 
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  • #2
Think about the vessel heading into the wave. If the vessel had some speed on it, would the observation about the waves make sense?
 
  • #3
hm.. i think its possible? because waves can travel at a speed of 1m/s (assuming wavelength is 3m and period=3s?)

is tat the way to support the answer though? it seems too simple
 
  • #4
Don't you know a formula for calculating the velocity of a deep water wave given the wavelength? Remember, deep water waves of a given wavelength all travel at a certain velocity relative to a fixed reference point. An observer on a vessel is not necessarily fixed in position relative to the wave motion.
 
  • #5


As a scientist, it is important to approach this scenario with a critical and analytical mindset. While the former sea captain's account may seem impressive and believable, it is important to gather more information and data before coming to a conclusion.

Firstly, it is important to understand the concept of wavelength and how it relates to waves. Wavelength is the distance between two consecutive points on a wave that are in phase, or have the same position in their respective cycles. In physical oceanography, we often measure wavelengths in meters.

Next, we need to consider the speed at which the waves were passing the ship. The former captain mentions that the waves had wavelengths of a few meters and were passing the 51m long ship in less than 3 seconds. This would mean that the waves had a speed of at least 17 meters per second (51m/3s).

Now, let's compare this speed to the typical speed of ocean waves. According to the National Ocean Service, the average speed of ocean waves is around 10 meters per second. This means that the waves the captain observed were moving significantly faster than the average ocean waves.

Additionally, we can use the equations for group velocity and phase speed to further analyze the situation. Group velocity is the speed at which a group of waves is moving, while phase speed is the speed at which an individual wave is moving. Without knowing the type of wave the captain observed, it is difficult to determine the specific values for group and phase velocity. However, based on the information provided, it is likely that the observed waves had a high group velocity and a shorter phase speed, which could explain why they were passing the ship at such a fast rate.

In conclusion, while the former sea captain's account may seem believable, it is important to approach it with a critical eye and gather more information before coming to a conclusion. The observed waves may have been unusual or extreme, but without further data and analysis, it is difficult to determine their exact nature. As scientists, it is important to gather evidence and consider all possible explanations before making a definitive judgement.
 

1. What causes ocean waves?

Ocean waves are caused by the transfer of energy from wind to the water's surface. As wind blows over the ocean, it creates friction and small ripples on the surface of the water. These ripples then grow into larger waves as more wind energy is transferred to them.

2. How are wave height and wavelength related?

Wave height and wavelength are directly related. As the wavelength of a wave increases, so does its height. This is because energy is spread out over a larger distance, allowing the wave to rise higher.

3. What factors affect the speed of ocean waves?

The speed of ocean waves is influenced by several factors, including wind speed, wind duration, and water depth. In general, larger waves travel faster than smaller waves, and waves in deeper water travel faster than those in shallow water.

4. How do ocean waves impact marine life?

Ocean waves play a crucial role in the distribution and movement of marine life. They help to circulate nutrients and oxygen, as well as provide habitats for many species. The size and intensity of waves can also affect the behavior and survival of marine animals.

5. Can ocean waves be predicted?

Yes, ocean waves can be predicted using various models and data collected from buoys, satellites, and other instruments. However, due to the complex nature of wave behavior, it is not always possible to accurately predict waves far in advance.

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