Spider Mites on my Rose Bush

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On one bush, a Chrysler Imperial, (absolutely heavenly fragrance) I had 80 open blooms at one time, the bush itself was over 6 feet tall. This was a hybrid tea, not a floribunda. The blooms were huge. I miss that bush. :cry:
Fragrance is back again. My current favorite is "Tea time" (Tantau 1994)

http://shop.garten.ch/bilder/rot/produkte_250/6181.jpg [Broken]

It's a favorite of other people too, it was elected rose queen of the flower-island Mainau in Lake Konstanz Germany 5 times in the last seven years, including this year.

Edit. It's flower bed is found here: 47.70381n 9.19963e

Paste that in the google earth fly to box. Unfortunately that picture is taken in wintertime.
 
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An Update, I'm pretty sure I got all the spider mites out. I lost my mini rose bush, but my other two seem to have survived. The smaller of the two is doing quite well, and survived with many of it's leaves still attached.

The larger one however, lost all of it's leaves to the mites. It's grown a few new ones though, so that's good. However, the new leaves are a very faded colour, they're almost see through, and they've started curling up and turning black. Anyone know what might be wrong now? Did they catch some sort of disease from the mites? Is there any way to fix it/save my rose bush?

I attached a picture of the leaves so you could see what they look like.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Moonbear
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My first few thoughts are 1) overwatering, 2) sunburn, 3) the mites are trying to reinfest.
 
turbo
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Another thought. The air wafting out of that baseboard heater might be hotter and drier than the rose bush can tolerate, especially in light of its weakened condition.
 
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I don't see how it could be sunburn, we haven't had much sun lately. I'll try cutting back the watering though. I can't see any mites, but maybe I'll spray again just to be safe.
 
Evo
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turbo brought up dry, hot air. That could be the culprit. Make sure that there is no powdery mildew on the leaves.
 
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Ok, I moved it away from the heater, I can't see any powdery mildew of any sort.

Thanks again for your help guys (and gals)
 
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Evo
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Ok, I moved it away from the heater, I can't see any powdery mildew of any sort.
Good. See if there if the curling stops and check eery day for mites. Looks like it's really sending out some new growth!
 
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Good. See if there if the curling stops and check eery day for mites. Looks like it's really sending out some new growth!
It's been mite free for a couple weeks now, that growth is mostly in the last week, and one of the other branches is just starting to get some growth on it.
 
Moonbear
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Are the leaves sprouting already damaged, or did it happen after they looked normal for a while? It could be that the mites had managed to damage the buds before you got rid of them, and the emerging leaves are just damaged from that, and the next round to sprout might be okay.

I didn't even think of the position of the heater. That makes sense too.
 
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Are the leaves sprouting already damaged, or did it happen after they looked normal for a while?
They're coming out really faded, but otherwise normal. Then they started curling and blackening. I moved it away from the heater, hopefully that will help.
 
turbo
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They're coming out really faded, but otherwise normal. Then they started curling and blackening. I moved it away from the heater, hopefully that will help.
Fingers crossed. New leaves are delicate and need water/nutrients in their veins to develop. The curled, dessicated edges may be the plant's response to too-rapid water loss. I lost a really pretty grape ivy in college due to (I believe) the fact that the only sunny place big enough for the pot was right over the heater on the window sill. The ivy was fine there until the outside weather got cold and the heater ran a lot. When I got my own apartment (dorms were mandatory for freshmen then), I got another cutting from my mother's plant and it thrived.

Pale new leaves are often a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Note that the soil may not actually be deficient in nitrogen - incorrect pH can inhibit nitrogen uptake even when the nutrient balance is OK. For less than $20, you can get a soils test kit at any good garden shop that lets you test for all major nutrients and pH, and you'll get enough reagent capsules to let you do about a dozen tests of each. "Rapitest" is the trade name my kit was sold under - there are probably a lot more.
 
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My rose bush has a new problem (it's not doing well in the appartment since winder came along). The stalks are turning brown and drying out, they seem to be drying out from the bottom up. Any ideas?

On the bright side though, the smaller one is doing well.
 

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