- #36
DaveC426913
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BTW, as many have asked, we need to know flow rate.
What rate does your sump fill at? How many gallons per hour?
What rate does your sump fill at? How many gallons per hour?
Yes I will find out tommorow and let everyone know.DaveC426913 said:BTW, as many have asked, we need to know flow rate.
What rate does your sump fill at? How many gallons per hour?
Something like this is what I'm talking about:gloo said:So Dave, is it complicated to program these timers?
gloo said:Can it be flexible ...for instance...run every ten min for 5 min? You ask why i would want to restrict flow... i was hoping that I could set a restricition with enough granularity so that it is just less than the rate at which the water flows in. Thus allowing the sump to fire just once every 4 to 6 hours. I really really need to get that done. It's just too loud to be normal...
DaveC426913 said:Something like this is what I'm talking about:
They're frustrating but not complicated. With only a few buttons, you're constantly changing modes to program it. It takes a while, but once you're done, you're all good.
They operate on a 24 hour program. And 20 programs. That means, in 24 hours, you can cycle it ON/OFF 20 times. That is NOT enough to have it come on every 5 minutes, but it is enough to have it come on every 72 minutes (20 times over 24 hours).
For each of those 'ON' times, you can individually set it to turn OFF after any number of minutes.
Your 5 minutes ON / 5 minutes OFF means it's on 50% of the time. So that would translate to 36 minutes ON / 36 minutes OFF, 24/7.
It also means you have very fine control over it over 24 hours. You could set it for 35 minutes ON, 37 minutes OFF, or 25 minutes ON, 47 minutes OFF etc.
I am absolutely certain an aquarium air pump will not work for pumping water from your sump.gloo said:Do you think that the speed controller would work for the aquarium pumps that DaveC mentioned? That way, I may not need a timer?
Q_Goest said:Hi gloo. How old is the pump you have? It doesn't make sense to me that it should cause a problem. Perhaps it has a damaged impeller or bearing and is vibrating.
PS: Note that the water velocity through the pipe is very low so it shouldn't be causing a vibration issue.
Yes, Travis, I am starting to thing just using a quiet sump pump and insulating the vibration...maybe using insulation foam against the floor joist and getting a quieter check valve, may be the answer.Travis_King said:I wouldn't recommend using anything other than a sump pump for this application. That's what sump pumps are for...
The pump itself shouldn't be very loud. As you are indicating that you think it's the PVC, what exactly is "loud" about the pipe? Is it vibrating against something? You mentioned that you put a sponge on it, does that mean you shoved a sponge between the pipe and some surface it's contacting?
I also wouldn't recommend that timer business. It seems like a good idea, but sumps usually run on level sensors or float switches, not timers. This is to protect from overflows and from running dry. Perhaps see how the pump is currently controlled and contact the manufacturer to see if there's a way to increase or decrease the allowable water levels in the pump controls.
russ_watters said:I am absolutely certain an aquarium air pump will not work for pumping water from your sump.
I think your best bet (besides the speed controller) will be to cut out a section of the output pipe and replace it with rubber. This will prevent the vibration of the pump from being transmitted through the pipe. Commercial pumps are installed that way.
As am I. ;) However, we are not talking about air pumps anymore. We are talking about water pumps.russ_watters said:I am absolutely certain an aquarium air pump will not work for pumping water from your sump.
He is talking about supplementing the sump with a regular pump. It is this regular pump that will run on a timer.Travis_King said:I also wouldn't recommend that timer business. It seems like a good idea, but sumps usually run on level sensors or float switches, not timers.
DaveC426913 said:As am I. ;) However, we are not talking about air pumps anymore. We are talking about water pumps.
They are self-contained cartridge filters that have a built-in pump. This is not really what they were made for, and I am still concerned about the lift/head. I am concerned that gloo will go out and purchase a $100 pump only to discover that it will not lift water to a 12 foot height.
He is talking about supplementing the sump with a regular pump. It is this regular pump that will run on a timer.
The entire purpose here is to reduce the amount of time the sump pump comes on from every 10 minutes down to every few hours or more. This could be done with a supplementary pump and careful tuning.
I am not recommending this solution, as I agree a proper sump pump is the way to go, but I am addressing the question that the OP has asked.
I know that I said that I'm out of the thread, but something strikes me about those sentences. Couldn't the sump pump (without a supplemental one) be set on the timer, but with float-switch overrides to satisfy Travis' concerns about running dry or flooding?DaveC426913 said:He is talking about supplementing the sump with a regular pump. It is this regular pump that will run on a timer.
Oops, well, fortunately my answer happens to be the same.DaveC426913 said:As am I. ;) However, we are not talking about air pumps anymore. We are talking about water pumps.
They are self-contained cartridge filters that have a built-in pump. This is not really what they were made for, and I am still concerned about the lift/head. I am concerned that gloo will go out and purchase a $100 pump only to discover that it will not lift water to a 12 foot height.
I don't see what value a timer would add, but whatever the case, if he gets a smaller pump it will have to run more often, not less often.The entire purpose here is to reduce the amount of time the sump pump comes on from every 10 minutes down to every few hours or more. This could be done with a supplementary pump and careful tuning.
@ Danger... I am not sure what you are saying. I was hoping to use air pump cause it was quiet (but doesn't sound technically possible given air pump power) and not use regular sump pump. It's all about the noise because I didn't want sump running at night cause it was loud.Danger said:I know that I said that I'm out of the thread, but something strikes me about those sentences. Couldn't the sump pump (without a supplemental one) be set on the timer, but with float-switch overrides to satisfy Travis' concerns about running dry or flooding?
I'm thinking of something like a "limit switch" setup, wherein mains power has a parallel path around the timer to the float switches.
The entire idea here is to make the (noisy) sump pump turn on less often.russ_watters said:I don't see what value a timer would add, but whatever the case, if he gets a smaller pump it will have to run more often, not less often.
DaveC426913 said:The entire idea here is to make the (noisy) sump pump turn on less often.
A supplementary pump will result in the sump filling much slower. That means the noisy sump pump will (in theory) kick in only every few hours (or even days), instead of every few minutes.
The reason for the timer is because the supplementary water pump has no feedback like the sump pump does so, if left to its own devices, it will simply drain the sump, suck air and lose prime. You set it to a direction wherein the sump is mostly drained each time, but over days, ultimately it fills up, then the sump pump kicks in and drains it rapidly.
I understand what you want to accomplish, and I sympathize with you, but the reason that an air pump is called an air pump is because it's designed to pump air, not water. The two types don't even work the same way. For one thing, no air pump that I'm familiar with is waterproof. In the case of aquarium units, they're usually mounted outside of the tank on a dry surface.gloo said:I was hoping to use air pump cause it was quiet
There are types that can run without being submerged. The image is nothing more than an example of a cartridge-type pump.gloo said:So Dave...not sure you saw my questions earlier but here they were:
1. Does that one require the entire thing to be dunked into the water? Or just one end of a hose or tube?
Almost certainly not.gloo said:2. Can that lift 11 to 12 feet?
russ_watters said:Oops, well, fortunately my answer happens to be the same.
Amazon lists the entire product line of a particular pump and the max head of any of them is 10'. So no, they won't work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027J67GS/?tag=pfamazon01-20I don't see what value a timer would add, but whatever the case, if he gets a smaller pump it will have to run more often, not less often.
DaveC426913 said:I have found a range of external pumps (also known as inline) that have lifts as high as 18 feet. (course, it's 240V)There is a 110V pump with a 13.5' lift:
SUP02722 -1200-gph w/18' cord - 6.5 x 3 x 5.5 (Model 12)
110 watts; 1.5 amps. 880-gph @ 3'; 580-gph @ 10'; max lift 13.5'.
And it's magnetic, so it should be quiet.
http://www.thepondoutlet.com/home/tpo/page_2190_235/pondmaster_mag-drive_pumps.html
Open the 'Features' tab.
Dude! You're sitting on a gold mine! Do you have any idea of how many guys want their in-laws to be too uncomfortable to stay?gloo said:I am fine with the noise... my wife less so. But when her parents come to sleep over, they are not thrilled to say the least.
External or "inline" pumps are designed to work while out of the water. Just stick the inflow tube into the water.gloo said:How does this work? Does it have to be submerged? Or just one end of tubing in the water.
No. You're going to set the timer so that the pit never runs dry. That's the whole point of limiting how long the water pump runs for.gloo said:And what about priming issue? I guess the timers have to come in play or it will burn out?
Hi gloo. This is a very good summary. I'd definitely recommend trying #3, 4, 5 and 6 before you put money into a new pump. Your existing 1/4 hp pump is relatively small and should work very well. Although it's new, you also should consider checking it for any damage by running it in the sump with the discharge pipe removed so it's just circulating water inside the sump to see if it's making any strange noise or vibration. But your list here is great starting point and I'd recommend trying those on your list first. If you're still having issues with the pump, I'd be interested in hearing from you.gloo said:From what I have learned to get the quietest sump pump going do the following:
1. Get a low velocity pump (Goest suggestion) - does this mean 1/4 hp is quieter than 1/2 hp?
2. Make sure the sump pump is sumbersible and high quality cast iron that is oil primed
3. Use rubber hose if possible to reduce virbation
4. Use sponge or material between pvc pipe (if not rubber hose) and floor joist and sump pit walls
5 Insulate floor joist using sound proof insulation
6. Should I build an enclosure room with sound proof insulation?
Q_Goest said:Hi gloo. This is a very good summary. I'd definitely recommend trying #3, 4, 5 and 6 before you put money into a new pump. Your existing 1/4 hp pump is relatively small and should work very well. Although it's new, you also should consider checking it for any damage by running it in the sump with the discharge pipe removed so it's just circulating water inside the sump to see if it's making any strange noise or vibration. But your list here is great starting point and I'd recommend trying those on your list first. If you're still having issues with the pump, I'd be interested in hearing from you.
Surely, yes. And that was one of the my concerns. Many of the external pump (that like like a pool pump) are quite noisy.gloo said:so # 1 is true? higher hp means more noise?