I think the comment is talking about splicing into the emergency brake/disconnect brake system and possibly inadvertantly rendering it useless.. thus if the trailer brakes away from my truck.. it'll keep going til it hits something rather than jamming on the brakes.
Don't worry.. I know...
Well the "plan" is to borrow power before it gets to that system. So it should be fine.. in worst case should provide extra power to that system.
What I'm really hoping for is that in that box there's a 12V not related to the brake system... but the above light thing still applies to keep me...
Hmm very good ideas..
I don't winch very often sometimes once a week, sometimes once a month...
But if I could keep that battery charged I might start using it for "work lamps" and "don't run me over" strobes
As far as a light. I think I would mount it either external in a proper...
I thought about solar... I have a smaller 5W panel.. but wasn't sure if it would be enough, the one you posted is physically to large to mount to the tool box in a safe location.
Phrak, I could but I don't want to have to run a 4ga or 2ga wire from the batt down the truck, find a safe way to disconnect when the trailer isn't in use then run it to the tool box. The problem is the wiring that is there I think might not handle the load. From what I can tell the pos feed...
hmm would I not wire it in series like a resistor?
I know for testing I used a 1157 bulb as a "resistor" for testing to get my HID headlights to work with my DRLs..
really? they're about 26W or so...
I'm still not sure how adding a smallish resistor will reduce/limit the current flowing other than with say the bulb method acting almost like a fuse...
chayced,
I was concerned about it trying to draw too much current and heat/melt the wiring. A diode, ok works kinda like an isolator, well sorta... resistor... I'm guessing I'd need a pretty big one I think I have a 6OHM 50W resistor kicking around...
Your second point.. I'll have to check...
I thought of that right as I posted, but I did a little more reading and while that works in theroy I saw 2 issues.
1. If that switch is "on" allowing the battery to charge what's to stop the truck from using it to crank/start off of, other than the other battery is closer has bigger...
Ok, I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but similar other posts are here.
I'm a little rusty with my electronics (I used to tinker back in school, but not so much now)
So here's the deal, this is an automotive application.
I have my truck which has a 1100CCA 12V battery and...