Recent content by ChrML

Yep, I agree, safety is important. Here in Norway we have one of the strictest laws in the world for electric installations and safety. Clearly Dav333 should stick to small battery electronic stuff that can't go that bad as he clearly has no idea what he's doing :).

Figured he didn't need to know that yet as it looks like he's only working on small battery stuff. Working with big batteries or high amount of power/voltage obviously requires more knowledge of what you're doing and more equipment to maintain safety. I work with electricity every day.

Yeah, I'll let you know when I get it. Will probably take about 2 weeks.

Yes, that would be the same as shorting it out using a wire directly from + to -. Except that you're trying to measure the current. Can damage the battery and possibly the multimeter if the battery is capable of outputting enough current. Do it on bigger batteries such as car batteries or...

Your multimeter wires are too thin for the currents you measure. All wires have a resistance. Smaller wires have a higher resistance than thicker wires. When high current (which 16-17 amps are considered to be) pass through a wire with high resistance (a think wire) it causes heat. This is waste...

I think it could be wedget into a slot in the MAF. So that combined with epoxy after sanding the surface a bit (mine is plastic), it has no way of getting anywhere :). I haven't used HPTuners either, I just stumbled upon that forumthread after searching for a while. I think I have ODB1 aswell...

The problem is solved! Someone else has solved the same problem using honeycomb screens. So let's try that :). http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26546&page=2 Thanks for help guys!

Okay. I will try a honeycomb screen then :). No, unfortunately my vehicle has just a MAF sensor. It's a Bosch 0280 213 012 Air Mass Meter. The original screen is held in place by a lock ring, but there is no space for locking the honeycomb filter using that I think. But the tube is a bit wider...

Mostly concerned how I'd mount it to/near the MAF. As long as the air is evenly distributed in the pipe, then the honeycomb laminizer should do the trick. The MAF relies on evently distributed air by design as it only measures the air flowing in a fraction of the pipe. And ofcourse relies on no...

Yeah, I also think it should be hit as early as possible. But my concern with having a cross section all the way is if there is more air in one of the sections than in the other because of the bend. Then them merging back together before the MAF might also cause turbulence that a straight pipe...

Yeah, I'm sure it's not that. Because it worked fine when it was at the previous location. But due to new turbo and some stuff, there is no way to have it there anymore. The MAF sensor is also pretty new and the inside looks to be clean. It isn't possible to use gentler bends than there is...

Evening out turbulence in a 3" pipe Hi folks, I have a small problem. In my car I'm building new pipes for the pressurized air. On a straight pipe there is a MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow). It consists of a hot wire and a temperature sensor. After the pipes were redone and the MAF sensor was...