ocean wave

  1. P

    Other Ideas for a Physics Project (Fluid Dynamics)

    I am a high school student interested in fluid dynamics, especially the Physics of ocean waves. So I'm hoping to do a science fair project about the Physics of sea waves, maybe for local science fair, or if it's really good, ISEF. The trouble is, I don't know what to do, especially because the...
  2. T

    I Mechanical waves encountering a change in Density

    Suppose a ocean wave encountered a section of ocean which had a higher level of aeration from gas such as methane escaping from the seafloor. Due to the aerated sections apparent lower density would the wave travel slower through the aerated section than its propagation speed thru pure seawater ?
  3. T

    A Impacted on a Surface wave of a tension-ed Anchor cable

    I'm trying to figure out what happens to a tension-ed anchor line when encountered by a surface wave (transverse and longitudinal ) Assuming a 2 dimensional view, or that the cable is sufficiently wide that the wave cannot go 'around it' what happens to the path and speed of the surface wave...
  4. T

    I Refraction Convergence and Amplitude change- Ocean waves

    There are many explanations on the internet, of refraction and convergence of ocean waves entering shallow water around a headland However they all go no deeper than this statement "Where the water is shallow the wave rays converge wave energy is greater where the wave rays spread out the...
  5. T

    B Is the water pressure below ocean waves constant?

    If you are stationary say 10m below the ocean surface does the water pressure at your location vary with the waves. For example: When a wave crest is above you than means perhaps 12m of water is above you. Then a few seconds later a trough is above you so only 8m of water is above you. So you...
  6. P

    How Ocean Waves Affect Beaches

    Hi I am currently looking for a topic to write my essay on. My first idea was to talk about how waves altered in different beaches. (With this I mean the shape of the waves) I don't know much about waves and I can't seem to find good info on the internet. If you think there isn't much to write...
  7. surfwavesfreak

    A Boundary condition question

    Hello everyone, The boundary condition : P=0, z=ζ is very common when studying irrotational flows. When cast with the Bernoulli equation, it gives rise to the famous dynamic boundary conditionn, which is much more convenient : ∂tφ+½(∇φ)2+gζ=0, z=ζ But what happens if the motion is rotational ...
  8. Tom MS

    Does Wave Refraction Change Wave Direction or Alignment

    I can't seem to find anything online that talks about this distinction. I understand how when the water gets shallower that part of the wave gets slowed down so the overall alignment parallels with the shore. However, I wouldn't think that would change the actual direction of the wave. I need a...
  9. W

    New Member

    Greetings from Costa Rica. I have an M.A. in Physical Science and a B.S. in Physics from San Diego State University, California, USA. For my master's thesis, I built and tested a prototype "Ocean Wave Driven Air Pump" in the Scripps Oceanographic Institute in La Jolla, CA in 1970-1971. The test...