teddd said:
Ok, help me out with this, becauose I think I've messed up something.
Let me start from the beginning.
At each point of the manifold it's possible to choose a basis which makes the spacetime looks flat (\eta_{\mu\nu}) in an infinitesimal neighbour: this change of basis correspond to pick an observer who is freely falling right?
Let's avoid informal language such as "makes the spacetime look flat" for now,which could be interpreted in different manners, until we get the confusion sorted out.
At each point on the manifold, there are an infinite number of possible choices of basis vectors. If one restricts oneself to sets of basis vectors that are orthonormal, the product of a basis vector with itself is unity and the product of a basis vector with another basis vector is zero, but there are still an infinite number of such orthonormal basis vectors at any point on the manifold.
The orthonormality condition is necessary and suficient to say that \eta^{\mu\nu} is diagonal and unity. This might be what you mean when you write \eta^{\mu\nu}, the diagonal matrix of the product of basis vectors. I'm not positive, sometimes one sees the same symbol used for the metric, i.e g^{\mu\nu} = \eta^{\mu\nu} + h^{\mu\nu}, which is a different meaning of the symbol.
To define a metric, you need to define coordinates as well as basis vectors. But I don't know if we need to get into this or not, because I'm not positive what you mean when you write \eta^{\mu\nu}. So I'll avoid an extended discussion unless we need one - we might, if you're conflating the basis vectors, coordinates, and coordinate bases.
Basis vectors are defined at a point, irrespective of the notion of the motion of acceleration of the point.
If we have a worldline of some observer moving through a point, some specific basis vector at that point represents his notion of proper time. This might help in visualizing the significance of the basis vectors, but you don't need to specify the observer in order to define the basis vector - you might use an observer to help physically interpret the meaning of a set of basis vectors, though.
To compare basis vectors at different locations, one needs a method of transporting them. Some observers will choose to Fermi-walker transport the basis vectors, others will chose to parallel transport them.
The transport process defines the Christoffel symbols, the connection coefficients.
An accelerating observer who uses Fermi-Walker transport will have Christoffel symbols that are non-zero in the direction of his acceleration.
In terms of metric coefficients, and coordinates, which we haven't really talked about, the metric coefficients can be defined as
\Gamma_{abc} = \frac{1}{2}\left( \partial_{a} g_{bc} + \partial_{b} g_{ac} - \partial_{c} g_{ab} \right)
which implies that the partial derivatives of the metric are nonzero for nonzero Christoffel symbols, so the metric coefficients are not constant to first order.
Since this appears to be related to your question, I suspect we'll actually have to go into the relation between the coordinates and the basis vectors. But I don't want to go into that if I'm getting off-track.
Another possible point of contention is "flatness". The usual definition of "flatness" is independent of the coordinate choice and is in terms of the Riemann tensor. It's true that many of the complexities of dealing with non-flat space-times are found when using funny coordinate systems in flat space-times, but it's a bit confusing to have a space-time called "flat" or "non-flat" depending on one's coordinate choice, which is why it's usually avoided.
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Let me try putting this another way. If you are in a perfectly flat space-time of special relativity, and you aren't accelerating, your basis vectors don't change (as compared to the flat space-time), and your Christoffel symbols are zero.
But if you are accelerating, your time-basis vector is "boosted" as you travel, your time-basis vector is not constant along your path. And your Christoffel symbols are non-zero, because your basis vectors are changing as a function of time.