DIY lifting concrete blocks with a lever and a grabber

  • Context: Wood/Glass/Metal 
  • Thread starter Thread starter DaveC426913
  • Start date Start date
Click For Summary

Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around methods for lifting and moving concrete blocks using a lever and a grabber mechanism. Participants explore various DIY solutions to avoid physical strain while positioning the blocks for a pool deck project. The conversation includes ideas for both the lever system and the grabbing mechanism, with a focus on practical, low-overhead designs.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Experimental/applied

Main Points Raised

  • One participant suggests using a 2x4 and a sawhorse as a lever to lift the blocks, expressing concern about how to effectively grab the blocks.
  • Some participants propose various grabbing mechanisms, including a self-locking device and simple wooden wedges, while acknowledging the risk of slippage.
  • Another participant mentions the possibility of using a dowel and shims to secure the blocks, indicating that this might be a viable solution.
  • Several ideas are shared about using inflatable devices to grip the blocks, though concerns about practicality and the risk of damaging the blocks are raised.
  • One participant suggests a more complex mechanism involving PVC pipes and articulated pins, while another expresses a preference for simpler, DIY solutions using basic tools.
  • There is discussion about the importance of the grabbing mechanism having sufficient friction and normal force, particularly given the conical shape of the blocks.
  • A participant shares their experience with a stake-and-shim method, noting its effectiveness despite some slippage.
  • Participants express varying priorities, with some focusing on efficiency and others on avoiding over-exertion and achieving satisfaction in the task.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants do not reach a consensus on a single effective method for lifting the blocks. Multiple competing ideas and approaches are presented, with some participants agreeing on certain concepts while others propose alternatives or express skepticism about specific solutions.

Contextual Notes

Some proposed solutions may depend on specific conditions, such as the exact dimensions of the blocks and the tools available to participants. The discussion reflects a range of practical experiences and preferences, highlighting the variability in DIY approaches.

Who May Find This Useful

This discussion may be useful for DIY enthusiasts, construction workers, or anyone interested in practical methods for lifting heavy objects safely and efficiently.

DaveC426913
Gold Member
2025 Award
Messages
24,292
Reaction score
8,447
TL;DR
I want to manipulate concrete footings while saving my back. The trick is how to grab them and release them.
Building a pool deck on a frame over concrete footings:
1753292850400.webp

~ 12"x12"x8" 50lb.

I am ruining my back trying to lift, place and fine-tune the locations of dozens of these footings.

My plan is to use a 2x4 and a sawhorse as a lever and fulcrum to move them arouund without injuring myself.
1753293439438.webp


The part I can't figure out is how to grab the footings. I could cobble together a giant claw to pick it up by its edges, but I think that's overkill. (although if you think of something I'm all ears.)

The footings have a hole down the centre that's about 1 1/2" in diameter. I could drop a tube down there on a rope. I'm just looking for some way of securing the grabber on the inside or bottom of the hole.

This is a schematic:
1753294335220.webp

The grabber doesn't have to be elaborate. Super simple is best. It could be just a big nail that I can twist into place or something. A clamp, a slipknot; an inflated balloon, what-have-you.

I just haven't figured out how.

And this does not have to be how I do it at all. Any suggestions about moving these blocks around in a back-saving way are welcome.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: sophiecentaur and Rive
Physics news on Phys.org
There is this kind of self-locking thing...
1753295654546.webp
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Likes   Reactions: sophiecentaur, russ_watters, DaveE and 1 other person
Rive said:
There is this kind of self-locking thing...
View attachment 363631
Yeah. That's the kind of thing I'm thinking of.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: Rive
Or some sort of wedgy thing you can cobble together from wood scraps. Expect it to slip at some point, just to be safe.
PXL_20250723_194129860.webp
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Likes   Reactions: BillTre, Borek and DaveC426913
DaveE said:
Or some sort of wedgy thing you can cobble together from wood scraps. Expect it to slip at some point, just to be safe.
View attachment 363635
Oh I see what you're illustrating.

Drop a dowel in the hole, just a little smaller than the hole's diameter.
Wedge in a shim or two.

Yeah, that might work pretty well.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: BillTre and DaveE
Lnewqban said:

Yes, I figured I could do it by welding some bars together; I'm trying for a solution that's a little less overhead just to build the device. I can cut and grind and bolt, but i can't weld - not conveniently.


These ideas though, are simpler than I imagined, so may be worth a gander.
 
The mold for those blocks is conical (or pyramidal?). So grabbing solutions need to grab well. I think you want your wedges to be very wedgy (more normal force) and soft enough to grab well. Fortunately you also get lots of friction with cinderblocks. Way easier if you could lift them upside-down.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: DaveC426913 and BillTre
DaveE said:
The mold for those blocks is conical (or pyramidal?). So grabbing solutions need to grab well. I think you want your wedges to be very wedgy (more normal force) and soft enough to grab well. Fortunately you also get lots of friction with cinderblocks. Way easier if you could lift them upside-down.
Yup.
 
  • #10
Perhaps an inflatable balloon thingy you could inflate once lowered into the middle of one of those. It’d have to be sturdy I admit. Water balloon ain’t gonna do it! Pneumatics FTW! :smile:

EDIT: Though I realize you risk cracking your thingies… Ah well, mostly for fun anyway.
 
  • #11
sbrothy said:
Perhaps an inflatable balloon thingy you could inflate once lowered into the middle of one of those. It’d have to be sturdy I admit. Water balloon ain’t gonna do it! Pneumatics FTW! :smile:

EDIT: Though I realize you risk cracking your thingies… Ah well, mostly for fun anyway.
Yeah, balloon is a great idea in theory, but inflating and deflating it is gonna be troublesome.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: sbrothy
  • #12
DaveC426913 said:
Yeah, balloon is a great idea in theory, but inflating and deflating it is gonna be troublesome.
There are things to put into pipes that can be inflated with water pressure from a hose.
Like this:
Screenshot 2025-07-25 at 9.44.19 AM.webp

They are made on tough rubber.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: sbrothy
  • #13
DaveC426913 said:
Yes, I figured I could do it by welding some bars together; I'm trying for a solution that's a little less overhead just to build the device. I can cut and grind and bolt, but i can't weld - not conveniently.
Perhaps these products are available to you?:
https://unistrut.biz/content/Resources/Literature/Unistrut-General-Engineering-Catalog.pdf

The simple system shown in post #2 could be done with a perforated 1-inch PVC pipe (in place of the red lines) and an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock.
 
  • #14
Lnewqban said:
an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock
Thanks I don't quite follow this last bit.
 
  • #15
DaveC426913 said:
Thanks I don't quite follow this last bit.
Selflocking mechanism.webp
 
  • Like
  • Love
Likes   Reactions: sophiecentaur, BillTre and DaveC426913
  • #16
  • #17
Lnewqban said:
Perhaps these products are available to you?:
https://unistrut.biz/content/Resources/Literature/Unistrut-General-Engineering-Catalog.pdf

The simple system shown in post #2 could be done with a perforated 1-inch PVC pipe (in place of the red lines) and an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock.
I would vote for something you make with a couple of 2x4 scraps, a drill, and a saw. If this is your profession, you need good tools. If it's DIY, you just need to get the job done. I'd be moving blocks while y'all were still driving to hardware stores or waiting for Amazon deliveries. Then I'd throw the whole lot in the trash once the blocks were in place.
 
  • Like
Likes   Reactions: BillTre
  • #18
DaveE said:
I would vote for something you make with a couple of 2x4 scraps, a drill, and a saw.
Yes.

DaveE said:
If this is your profession, you need good tools. If it's DIY, you just need to get the job done. I'd be moving blocks while y'all were still driving to hardware stores or waiting for Amazon deliveries. Then I'd throw the whole lot in the trash once the blocks were in place.
Yes.

But it does need to work well enough to be labour-saving, not too fiddly to waste time or fall apart.
 
  • #19
DaveC426913 said:
But it does need to work well enough to be labour-saving, not too fiddly to waste time or fall apart.
Yes, the first block or two will be an experiment, a learning experience. :wink:
 
  • #20
I went with the stake-and-shim.

1753835282764.webp


The shim is steel, with a 90 degree bend, so I can pound it in with the fulcrum hammer.

It does slip, if I don't pound in the shim enough, but it does the trick.

(My goal is different from most workplace goals. My goal is not time-efficiency - it's not over-exerting myself. In fact, I have no problem working slowly, because it means I intersperse the heavy labour bits with fiddLing bits.)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
  • Agree
Likes   Reactions: sophiecentaur, Rive, DaveE and 2 others
  • #21
DaveC426913 said:
(My goal is different from most workplace goals. My goal is not time-efficiency
My goal would also be to get satisfaction every time the device operates.

Great thread. I was thinking in terms of using my (or your?) lathe to turn up a sort of inverse drill chuck. I imagine that those holes are all near enough the same size. But, without a lathe of some sort, the job could be hard. Plus it could get in the way of getting the decking job done.

@DaveC426913 In that picture, is that steel thing (blue) what you can buy to do the job? A hole, drilled on the end of the handle could allow lifting that with a lever.
 
  • #22
sophiecentaur said:
@DaveC426913 In that picture, is that steel thing (blue) what you can buy to do the job? A hole, drilled on the end of the handle could allow lifting that with a lever.
That's just a bog standard work table. It's the right height to act as a fulcrum, and is plenty broad enough to be stable while I twist and turn the footing. In retrospect, something more tripod-like might have been easir to maneuver ubut this was there when I needed it.
 
  • #23
Update: Oh the irony!

I went to my local lumber yard - cheaper, better service, better quality, local - and tried to buy more of these 50lb. concrete footings. They do not have any, because, apparently these footings are being phased out everywhere in favour of fibreglass or industrial plastic footings.

The new footings weigh less than 5lbs. each - entirely obviating the need for a lifting mechanism. Glad I didn't spend too much time cobbling it together.

But there's more impact. Any advantage I might have gained by using heavy footings is diminished because now I have to complete the rest of the deck without them.

But wait, there's more!

The plastic footings are only 2" high instead of 7". If I had known about these plastic footings before I started - my deck could have been about five inches lower than I was forced to make it.

Live and learn. Live and learn.
 
Last edited:
  • Wow
Likes   Reactions: berkeman and BillTre