DIY lifting concrete blocks with a lever and a grabber

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SUMMARY

This discussion focuses on DIY methods for lifting and moving 50lb concrete footings while constructing a pool deck. Participants suggest using a lever system with a 2x4 and a sawhorse, along with various grabber solutions such as dowels, shims, and inflatable devices. A notable suggestion includes using a perforated PVC pipe with an internal metal conduit to lock and release the footings. Ultimately, the conversation reveals that the original concrete footings are being phased out in favor of lighter, more efficient plastic alternatives.

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  • Basic knowledge of lever mechanics and fulcrum principles
  • Familiarity with DIY construction tools like drills and saws
  • Understanding of materials such as PVC and concrete
  • Experience with simple mechanical devices and their applications
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  • Research techniques for creating a lever system for lifting heavy objects
  • Explore designs for grabber tools suitable for lifting concrete blocks
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DIY enthusiasts, construction workers, and anyone involved in home improvement projects who seeks efficient methods for handling heavy materials safely.

DaveC426913
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TL;DR
I want to manipulate concrete footings while saving my back. The trick is how to grab them and release them.
Building a pool deck on a frame over concrete footings:
1753292850400.webp

~ 12"x12"x8" 50lb.

I am ruining my back trying to lift, place and fine-tune the locations of dozens of these footings.

My plan is to use a 2x4 and a sawhorse as a lever and fulcrum to move them arouund without injuring myself.
1753293439438.webp


The part I can't figure out is how to grab the footings. I could cobble together a giant claw to pick it up by its edges, but I think that's overkill. (although if you think of something I'm all ears.)

The footings have a hole down the centre that's about 1 1/2" in diameter. I could drop a tube down there on a rope. I'm just looking for some way of securing the grabber on the inside or bottom of the hole.

This is a schematic:
1753294335220.webp

The grabber doesn't have to be elaborate. Super simple is best. It could be just a big nail that I can twist into place or something. A clamp, a slipknot; an inflated balloon, what-have-you.

I just haven't figured out how.

And this does not have to be how I do it at all. Any suggestions about moving these blocks around in a back-saving way are welcome.
 
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There is this kind of self-locking thing...
1753295654546.webp
 
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Rive said:
There is this kind of self-locking thing...
View attachment 363631
Yeah. That's the kind of thing I'm thinking of.
 
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Or some sort of wedgy thing you can cobble together from wood scraps. Expect it to slip at some point, just to be safe.
PXL_20250723_194129860.webp
 
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DaveE said:
Or some sort of wedgy thing you can cobble together from wood scraps. Expect it to slip at some point, just to be safe.
View attachment 363635
Oh I see what you're illustrating.

Drop a dowel in the hole, just a little smaller than the hole's diameter.
Wedge in a shim or two.

Yeah, that might work pretty well.
 
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Lnewqban said:

Yes, I figured I could do it by welding some bars together; I'm trying for a solution that's a little less overhead just to build the device. I can cut and grind and bolt, but i can't weld - not conveniently.


These ideas though, are simpler than I imagined, so may be worth a gander.
 
The mold for those blocks is conical (or pyramidal?). So grabbing solutions need to grab well. I think you want your wedges to be very wedgy (more normal force) and soft enough to grab well. Fortunately you also get lots of friction with cinderblocks. Way easier if you could lift them upside-down.
 
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DaveE said:
The mold for those blocks is conical (or pyramidal?). So grabbing solutions need to grab well. I think you want your wedges to be very wedgy (more normal force) and soft enough to grab well. Fortunately you also get lots of friction with cinderblocks. Way easier if you could lift them upside-down.
Yup.
 
  • #10
Perhaps an inflatable balloon thingy you could inflate once lowered into the middle of one of those. It’d have to be sturdy I admit. Water balloon ain’t gonna do it! Pneumatics FTW! :smile:

EDIT: Though I realize you risk cracking your thingies… Ah well, mostly for fun anyway.
 
  • #11
sbrothy said:
Perhaps an inflatable balloon thingy you could inflate once lowered into the middle of one of those. It’d have to be sturdy I admit. Water balloon ain’t gonna do it! Pneumatics FTW! :smile:

EDIT: Though I realize you risk cracking your thingies… Ah well, mostly for fun anyway.
Yeah, balloon is a great idea in theory, but inflating and deflating it is gonna be troublesome.
 
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  • #12
DaveC426913 said:
Yeah, balloon is a great idea in theory, but inflating and deflating it is gonna be troublesome.
There are things to put into pipes that can be inflated with water pressure from a hose.
Like this:
Screenshot 2025-07-25 at 9.44.19 AM.webp

They are made on tough rubber.
 
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  • #13
DaveC426913 said:
Yes, I figured I could do it by welding some bars together; I'm trying for a solution that's a little less overhead just to build the device. I can cut and grind and bolt, but i can't weld - not conveniently.
Perhaps these products are available to you?:
https://unistrut.biz/content/Resources/Literature/Unistrut-General-Engineering-Catalog.pdf

The simple system shown in post #2 could be done with a perforated 1-inch PVC pipe (in place of the red lines) and an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock.
 
  • #14
Lnewqban said:
an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock
Thanks I don't quite follow this last bit.
 
  • #15
DaveC426913 said:
Thanks I don't quite follow this last bit.
Selflocking mechanism.webp
 
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  • #16
  • #17
Lnewqban said:
Perhaps these products are available to you?:
https://unistrut.biz/content/Resources/Literature/Unistrut-General-Engineering-Catalog.pdf

The simple system shown in post #2 could be done with a perforated 1-inch PVC pipe (in place of the red lines) and an internal metal conduit of smaller diameter containing one or several articulated pins.

The internal conduit is pulled by your lever, locking the pin(s) against the concrete.
The internal conduit is pushed down while the PVC pipe is pulled up to release the lock.
I would vote for something you make with a couple of 2x4 scraps, a drill, and a saw. If this is your profession, you need good tools. If it's DIY, you just need to get the job done. I'd be moving blocks while y'all were still driving to hardware stores or waiting for Amazon deliveries. Then I'd throw the whole lot in the trash once the blocks were in place.
 
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  • #18
DaveE said:
I would vote for something you make with a couple of 2x4 scraps, a drill, and a saw.
Yes.

DaveE said:
If this is your profession, you need good tools. If it's DIY, you just need to get the job done. I'd be moving blocks while y'all were still driving to hardware stores or waiting for Amazon deliveries. Then I'd throw the whole lot in the trash once the blocks were in place.
Yes.

But it does need to work well enough to be labour-saving, not too fiddly to waste time or fall apart.
 
  • #19
DaveC426913 said:
But it does need to work well enough to be labour-saving, not too fiddly to waste time or fall apart.
Yes, the first block or two will be an experiment, a learning experience. :wink:
 
  • #20
I went with the stake-and-shim.

1753835282764.webp


The shim is steel, with a 90 degree bend, so I can pound it in with the fulcrum hammer.

It does slip, if I don't pound in the shim enough, but it does the trick.

(My goal is different from most workplace goals. My goal is not time-efficiency - it's not over-exerting myself. In fact, I have no problem working slowly, because it means I intersperse the heavy labour bits with fiddLing bits.)
 
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  • #21
DaveC426913 said:
(My goal is different from most workplace goals. My goal is not time-efficiency
My goal would also be to get satisfaction every time the device operates.

Great thread. I was thinking in terms of using my (or your?) lathe to turn up a sort of inverse drill chuck. I imagine that those holes are all near enough the same size. But, without a lathe of some sort, the job could be hard. Plus it could get in the way of getting the decking job done.

@DaveC426913 In that picture, is that steel thing (blue) what you can buy to do the job? A hole, drilled on the end of the handle could allow lifting that with a lever.
 
  • #22
sophiecentaur said:
@DaveC426913 In that picture, is that steel thing (blue) what you can buy to do the job? A hole, drilled on the end of the handle could allow lifting that with a lever.
That's just a bog standard work table. It's the right height to act as a fulcrum, and is plenty broad enough to be stable while I twist and turn the footing. In retrospect, something more tripod-like might have been easir to maneuver ubut this was there when I needed it.
 
  • #23
Update: Oh the irony!

I went to my local lumber yard - cheaper, better service, better quality, local - and tried to buy more of these 50lb. concrete footings. They do not have any, because, apparently these footings are being phased out everywhere in favour of fibreglass or industrial plastic footings.

The new footings weigh less than 5lbs. each - entirely obviating the need for a lifting mechanism. Glad I didn't spend too much time cobbling it together.

But there's more impact. Any advantage I might have gained by using heavy footings is diminished because now I have to complete the rest of the deck without them.

But wait, there's more!

The plastic footings are only 2" high instead of 7". If I had known about these plastic footings before I started - my deck could have been about five inches lower than I was forced to make it.

Live and learn. Live and learn.
 
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