Ketch22
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[QUOTE="seazal,What are dark tint film usually made of? Is it also low strength polymer?[/QUOTE]
Nice ride. The newer Honda's are pretty sweet. Yes, in response to your question. The window tint, in relation to darkest "legal" terms has to do with the pigment load of the film.
As a general rule aftermarket films are significantly weaker than factory applied. The factory films and the very high end after market are done with a higher density film. This is to provide better scratch resistance and to reduce customer call backs only it is a more durable film but not higher density polymer. All of the window tints are a low density film. These films are applied on the inside of the window. If one attempts to break the window a punch style device or a hammer will work equally well. The Impact load in PSI is well over any of the film strengths in psi penetration resistance.
The earlier mentioned antennae trick will not work on the inside of the car if it is factory tint. Typically as a bystander one is on the outside of the vehicle and it will still work fine. The higher density film can sometime cause issues on the interior where the film is applied as it dissipates some of the impact.
Please be assured that the hammer or the punch will do great from either side of the glass. The film will tear easily especially once any break (even a crazed hammer hole) creates a stress riser.
This is all well and good if you are conscious and capable. If not, First, someone is coming in with whoever is there to be best buddy and observer. Second, that window is coming out even if one needs to bring 10,000lbs of hydraulic advantage.
Russ waters earlier post is also very relevant. The electric system works for a little bit even in the case of water submersion. The best answer is to just roll down the window if you can.
Nice ride. The newer Honda's are pretty sweet. Yes, in response to your question. The window tint, in relation to darkest "legal" terms has to do with the pigment load of the film.
As a general rule aftermarket films are significantly weaker than factory applied. The factory films and the very high end after market are done with a higher density film. This is to provide better scratch resistance and to reduce customer call backs only it is a more durable film but not higher density polymer. All of the window tints are a low density film. These films are applied on the inside of the window. If one attempts to break the window a punch style device or a hammer will work equally well. The Impact load in PSI is well over any of the film strengths in psi penetration resistance.
The earlier mentioned antennae trick will not work on the inside of the car if it is factory tint. Typically as a bystander one is on the outside of the vehicle and it will still work fine. The higher density film can sometime cause issues on the interior where the film is applied as it dissipates some of the impact.
Please be assured that the hammer or the punch will do great from either side of the glass. The film will tear easily especially once any break (even a crazed hammer hole) creates a stress riser.
This is all well and good if you are conscious and capable. If not, First, someone is coming in with whoever is there to be best buddy and observer. Second, that window is coming out even if one needs to bring 10,000lbs of hydraulic advantage.
Russ waters earlier post is also very relevant. The electric system works for a little bit even in the case of water submersion. The best answer is to just roll down the window if you can.