How to remove epoxy resin from diesel fuel? A/B extraction? Distill?

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    Diesel Extraction
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SUMMARY

The discussion focuses on methods to remove epoxy resin from diesel fuel, highlighting the challenges of separation due to the resin's emulsification properties. Key techniques mentioned include freeze distillation, acid-base reactions, and filtration through activated alumina or silica. Participants emphasize the importance of safety precautions when handling flammable and potentially hazardous materials. The consensus is that while distillation is a viable option, it requires proper equipment and safety measures.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of epoxy resin chemistry, specifically the properties of epoxides and their reactions.
  • Familiarity with distillation techniques and equipment.
  • Knowledge of filtration methods using activated alumina or silica.
  • Basic safety protocols for handling flammable and hazardous materials.
NEXT STEPS
  • Research the process of freeze distillation and its effectiveness for separating emulsified substances.
  • Learn about the use of activated alumina and silica in filtration processes for organic solvents.
  • Investigate the safety measures required for conducting distillation at home.
  • Explore the chemistry of epoxy resin degradation under acidic and basic conditions.
USEFUL FOR

This discussion is beneficial for chemists, DIY enthusiasts, and anyone involved in solvent recovery or epoxy resin projects, particularly those looking to safely manage and dispose of contaminated diesel fuel.

Zxerja
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Hi,

I have been using diesel fuel and gasoline to rinse out surplus 5gal epoxy resin jugs. They are great for projects. The resin seems to dissolve or at least emulsify into the diesel. I'm wondering if there is a way to extract/separate the diesel from the resin. The resin is not soluble in water, and is comprised of the following. When I have a little time I'm going to try adding acid and base to samples. As well as freezing it. Freeze distillation is my current thinking. Obviously I'll let it settle and see what happens, it may separate on it's own.

Oxirane, 2,2'-[(1-methylethylidene)bis(4,1-phenyleneoxymethylene)]bis-, homopolymer

Benzyl alcohol

Phenol, polymer with formaldehyde, glycidyl ether
 
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I dont know how the polymer acts but the monomer would open in acidic or basic conditions. I imagine basic conditions would result in a water soluble product, but be aware that phenol can also react. Epoxides are generally reactive with hydroxides.

As always, practice extreme care adding strong reagents to household chemicals as the behavior can be unpredictable.
 
Interesting.

I'll be experimenting with small sample.

My educational background is in physics and I'm pretty good at being careful.
 
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Zxerja said:
Interesting.

I'll be experimenting with small sample.

My educational background is in physics and I'm pretty good at being careful.
Fine by me. Chemistry PPE is mandatory even for small samples, though. Please report back what happens!
 
It is a 'long shot' but, IIRC, the classic way to cleanse kerosene or diesel sabotaged by addition of sugar or corn syrup --Which, dissolved in trace water content, fouled valves, injectors etc-- was to add a generous portion of water, shake very well and allow to stand.

With luck, some of the resin degradation components will transfer to the water layer, which may be run off, allowed to evaporate to residue...
Separation may need multiple passes, and return of 'borderline' layer to earlier stages...

As you are dealing with potentially flammable and probably skin / eye irritant material, 'Due Care, Please' ??
 
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I don’t think that extraction will work, even for the ring-opened product. Distillation is your best bet if you have the equipment to do it.

Don’t try running an engine with the distillate. Should be good for cleaning out those epoxy containers.
 
Organic chemist here.

All of these contaminants would partition into the oil phase if you added water. They are however more polar than the gasoline or diesel, and would be selectively retained if you filtered the fuel through a column of activated alumina or silica powder.

At some point the powder will become saturated, and/or the contaminants will eventually be carried through to the end of the column, so you'll need a way to detect this. In the lab, we'd use TLC (thin layer chromatography) plates. (You can buy alumina, silica, and TLC plates from numerous sources, directly or via Amazon.) I imagine that the amount of residue in a 5-gallon jug is on the order of an ounce or more, so it would be a good idea to first rinse once or twice with small amounts of solvent, and dispose of that as waste, greatly reducing the amount of alumina or silica needed.
Be aware that the process may remove performance additives as well as the resin contaminants. The filtered material can be re-used as a solvent, but I wouldn't use it in an engine.

Depending on how rapidly the contaminants "break through" the filtration media, you could easily spend more on this process than the recovered solvent is worth. You might consider mixing small amounts (1 gal/500 gal) into home heating oil as an economical disposal method. If you go this route, I suggest handling the "A" and "B" resin wastes separately, to avoid creating dissolved epoxy polymers that might gum up the pump and/or burner.

I should point out that while distillation is an option if you have the proper equipment, it's still a dangerous business, and Murphy's law has a way of intruding (at the worst possible moment.) A well-ventilated space, in a location that won't burn down your house, is mandatory.
 
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Activated alumina or silica would be quite expensive. Might as well not recycle at all and just toss it.

His concept of “freeze distillation” (probably fractional freezing) may have mixed results. Still, that’s his best path forward as I see it.