How to thin out the back without making any scratches on the surface (earrings)

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yungman
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Hi

I want to modify a pair of Halloween earrings for my wife, it's a pair of pumpkin earrings, the problem is the other side is just flat black, only showing the pumpkin on one side. I want to get two pairs and glue them back to back so I get pumpkin on both sides.

The problem is it's going to be too thick if I just simply glue two back to back, I need to thin the back out. The front surface is smooth and shinny and I don't want to scratch the surface. The back is just plastic, so it should not be hard to sand it down. Here is what I come up with, but I want to hear any better suggestion:

I am thinking of getting some modelling clay and flatten into a small dish, then push the earring shinning face down into the clay to protect the surface. Then just push the back against an electric sander to sand it down.

I already bought 3 pairs so I can afford to mess up one pair. Please advice of a better idea. Also, is there any specific modelling clay that is better?

Thanks

Alan
 
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yungman said:
I am thinking of getting some modelling clay and flatten into a small dish, then push the earring shinning face down into the clay to protect the surface. Then just push the back against an electric sander to sand it down.
I'd probably do that sanding by hand. Are you worried that touching the front side will do damage?
 
dlgoff said:
I'd probably do that sanding by hand. Are you worried that touching the front side will do damage?
Yes. I worry about damaging the front. I can either do hand sanding or using the electric sander, the important thing is how to hold the earring for sanding. I can try either way, I did order one extra pair for experiment.

Ha ha, they are only 99cents a pair, it's just my wife loves it. The cheapest modelling clay is $5!
 
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yungman said:
Ha ha, they are only 99cents a pair, it's just my wife loves it.
Or maybe the challenge of how to do it? Just sayin'. :devil:
Sounds like me.
 
Do you think modeling clay is stout enough? Can you pot them in hot melt glue (the translucent kind) instead? Or wax (and maybe put it in the freezer). Sounds like a good plan though.
 
Put a shallow recess in a piece of wood for a comfortable fit of the earring. Make the recess a depth such that when you sand down to the wood, the desired thickness of the earring is reached. This approach helps to get an even thickness of the work.

Hold the earring in the recess with paraffin wax to which hardener has been added. Many decorative candles use hardened wax. Hardener is sometimes available in craft stores, and probably online. Another possibility, not tried, is use Silicone Sealant as a glue.

Use a hardwood if you can, rather than common construction lumber. If using a sander, take care not to heat the work, thereby melting the wax or damaging the painted design with heat.

The wax can be removed with warm water, and then ethyl alcohol if needed... but the alcohol may remove a painted design.

Cheers,
Tom

p.s. let us know how it turns out!
 
One way to protect the front metal surface regardless of your other processes would be to coat it, fingernail polish is an easy way, and then when your other processes are completed the simply use fingernail polish remover to clean the surface, just be sure not to get any of the remover on the plastic part.
 
Tom.G said:
Put a shallow recess in a piece of wood for a comfortable fit of the earring. Make the recess a depth such that when you sand down to the wood, the desired thickness of the earring is reached. This approach helps to get an even thickness of the work.

Hold the earring in the recess with paraffin wax to which hardener has been added. Many decorative candles use hardened wax. Hardener is sometimes available in craft stores, and probably online. Another possibility, not tried, is use Silicone Sealant as a glue.

Use a hardwood if you can, rather than common construction lumber. If using a sander, take care not to heat the work, thereby melting the wax or damaging the painted design with heat.

The wax can be removed with warm water, and then ethyl alcohol if needed... but the alcohol may remove a painted design.

Cheers,
Tom

p.s. let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for the reply, the earring is made of plastic, I don't know whether the hot wax will ruin the surface. Silicon sealer is interesting, it would be nice to find one that form very weak bonding so it won't stick onto the surface that strong and easy to peel off.
 
I just bought this just to try it out. But if I can find some weak silicon glue, I am open to try that also. The earring is made of plastic, I don't think it's that hard to sand it down, it's just is so thin ( about 0.08" thick) that it's hard to hold by hand to sand it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S2G0E64/?tag=pfamazon01-20
 
yungman said:
about 0.08" thick
less than 1/8 inch but more than 1/16.
How much sanding do you need to do?

I would just get some fine grit sandpaper, lay it flat or glue it flat on a surface, and then rub the item over the sandpaper by hand.
 
yungman said:
Silicon sealer is interesting, it would be nice to find one that form very weak bonding so it won't stick onto the surface that strong and easy to peel off.
Or liquid Latex, often used to make face masks.
Or even flour-and-water paste.
Or ask your dentist about the stuff to take impressions for tooth crowns or, for removable dentures.
 
Tom.G said:
Or liquid Latex, often used to make face masks.
Or even flour-and-water paste.
Or ask your dentist about the stuff to take impressions for tooth crowns or, for removable dentures.
I was reading about liquid latex, that sounds really interesting, might be better than modelling clay. How thick is it before it dries?
 
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The one use I've seen, it was pourable, about the consistency of warm honey. Never used it myself. Likely available/mixable for different consistency.

Don't know where to get it though, let us know if you find a source.
 
I would take a hot spoon and try to scrape out the outsides.