Is My Samovar Really 110V or 220V? Decoding the Resistance of the Element

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around determining the voltage compatibility of a samovar purchased from overseas, specifically whether it operates at 110V or 220V. Participants explore the implications of the resistance measurement of the heating element and the performance of the device when used at different voltages.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested

Main Points Raised

  • One participant notes that the resistance of the heating element measures about 12 ohms and questions if this indicates the device is actually 220V, given the performance observed at 110V.
  • Another participant calculates the expected power output based on the resistance and voltage, suggesting that at 110V, the device would draw 10 amps and produce 1200 watts, while at 220V, it would draw 18.33 amps and produce 4033 watts.
  • Concerns are raised about the electrical installation at home potentially not being able to handle the higher current if the device is indeed 220V.
  • One participant asks if the element has only two terminals, indicating that multiple terminals could allow for different wiring configurations for voltage selection.
  • Another participant suggests the possibility of a voltage selection switch, although the original poster confirms there is no such switch, only a single button for operation.
  • Participants discuss the clarity of the base plate markings and the reliability of the translation from Russian, with skepticism about the vendor's claims regarding the voltage compatibility.
  • One participant advises checking the wattage or current specifications on the switch and power plugs for further clarity.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express uncertainty regarding the voltage compatibility of the samovar, with multiple competing views on the implications of the resistance measurement and the performance observed. The discussion remains unresolved as no consensus is reached on whether the device is 110V or 220V.

Contextual Notes

Participants note the potential limitations of the resistance measurement, the accuracy of the translation from Russian, and the implications of the electrical installation at home. There are unresolved questions about the specifications and design of the samovar.

ER_Doc
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Need some help please. Bought a Samovar (electric water pot) from overseas. Seller told me it is 110V compatible but the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian. Seller tells me that I should not use it in a 220V outlet but when plugged into a 110V it took 45 minutes to boil 8L of water. This is the result I expect if a 220V item is urged into 110v which means it operates st 25% power. So I don't know if Seller is just bluffing me or he is serious that the element is a 110V element which would then be damaged on a 220V outlet.

I disassembled the unit. The resistance measures about 12OHMS. Is this any indication that it is actually 220V and not 110V?

Help please. I'm not an electrician but more of a tinkerer.
 
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Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
 
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Baluncore said:
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.
Even if the samovar can take it, the electrical installation at your home might not be able to take it. 16 Amps is common. I think appliances that go into a wall plug are never more than about 3kw, because it would be too easy for someone to blow a fuse.
 
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Baluncore said:
Welcome to PF.

Assuming that the resistance of the element does not rise when it gets hot.
120 volt, 12 ohms → 10 amps → 1200 watt.
220 volt, 12 ohms → 18.33 amps → 4033 watt.

Are you sure the element has only two terminals ?
If it had three or four, it could be wired for 120 V or 220 V.
Thank you for the reply. Only 2 prongs. I checked resistance without unsoldering the element from its wires. This should not affect the measurement should it? The on/off switch is a "push button" style that only clicks on if samovar is plugged in. So I believe circuit should be open during measurement of resistance across the element.
 
ER_Doc said:
..the base plate not sp clearly says 110v/220V in Russian.
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
 
Lnewqban said:
Could it be the device has a switch to select either voltage?

What is the meaning of "not sp"?
Sorry typo. That's what happens when you write messages in the middle of the night. I realized my bad spelling today. No switch unfortunately. Just one button which turns on boil mode then automatically flips to keep warm mode when water hits 100°C.
 
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There should be a wattage or current specified.
Check the rating of the switch and the power plugs.
 
20230223_100824.jpg


Here is the base plate and below is a Google translate from Russian. Not sure I necessarily believe the baseplate as the vendor is telling me he checked with the manufacturer and they told him this is a 110V element. But then why does it take 45 min to heat the water? Also....the google translation have to take with a grain of salt as well. Not sure it is 100% accurate.

Household electric samovar ESTZ 3.0/1.0-110/220 GOST 7400,

Model "Bank" voltage 220V 50g Power 1kB