Ahttp://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/timing-chains turns the http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/camshafts in concert with the http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crankshafts and drives the oil pump, possibly the mechanical fuel pump, maybe the distributor.
A timing chain also acts as a vibration damper. It absorbs a certain amount of crankshaft vibration and shock before it is transmitted to the camshaft. This vibration can shorten the life of an OE-style timing chain. High valve spring pressure can also increase harmonic vibration through the camshaft, further stressing the timing chain.
Back in V8 engine days most OEM-style timing chains didn’t last long. They would wobble and stretch rapidly; many even came with out-of-round sprockets that would throw off cam timing and wear quickly. You had to check the sprockets carefully before installation, then inspect the chain religiously. The only way to advance or retard cam timing was with offset drive pin bushings (and enlarged cam mount bolt holes to allow for movement) or with offset crankshaft keys. Adding insult to injury, the OE-style lower crank gears were of the press-molded or sintered iron variety. Needless to say, reliability at high rpm wasn’t a design priority with these setups.
That changed when aftermarket large-pin timing chains were introduced. These chains have larger-than-stock pins, which actually roll as the chain and sprocket teeth contact. Most have heat-treated gear teeth, and some have keyways in the crank gear that let you advance or retard the camshaft (usually by four degrees). This type of chain is stronger and lighter than the roller-style chains. That reduces operating tension and wear, so this type of chain lasts longer.
Roller Timing Chains
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/timing-chains/timing-chain-style/single-roller have been available since the 1960s. The chains have a semi-floating tube that covers the chain links, allowing the chain to literally roll over the gear teeth. This helps reduce friction and chain stretch.
There are two types of roller timing chains available. The http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/timing-chains/timing-chain-style/single-roller is much like the chain on a bicycle—the links or side plates of the chain pass over and around a single set of teeth in each gear. A
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/timing-chains/timing-chain-style/double-roller is exactly what the name implies—gears with dual sets of teeth with a chain link for each set. Many late model OE engines, like GM’s LS-series V8s, have a single roller timing chain. A single roller is also ideal for most high performance street engines. When you get way up in the horsepower and rpm strata where big lift cams and very high valve spring pressures come into play, a double roller chain can better control harmonic vibration at the cost of a little additional weight. That means more stable cam timing in the engine where even a little deviation can cost horsepower.
A variant of the roller chain is thehttp://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/cloyes-gear/part-type/timing-chain-and-gear-sets?GroupBy=ProductName&keyword=True%20Roller This chain has pins or rollers that actually spin as they ride over the gear teeth. This further reduces friction compared to standard roller chains with rollers or pins that are fixed in place. You can get a true roller chain in single or double roller versions.
Some roller timing chain sets are manufactured with larger than stock pins. These are typically found in standard roller chains. This design yields a stronger, more durable chain, but adds more friction than a true roller.
Roller timing sets with iron cam gears have wear issues on iron engine blocks. Most engine builders machine the backside of the cam gear or the block area surrounding the cam nose to accept a bushing or a Torrington bearing. This prevents galling between the cam gear and the block. Many roller chain sets have steel gears to eliminate the problem altogether.
Another issue with a roller chain setup is the “chordal action,” a whipping motion that happens when the chain turns on the gear teeth. That whipping motion can literally turn the chain into an “S” shape. Chordal action can weaken the chain and also negatively affect valve timing, ignition timing, and mechanical oil and fuel pumps. That’s why it’s important to check the timing chain on regularly. If it’s tired, replace it.
The following was done at
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-0510-camshaft-drive-comparison/
Summary in my words - true roller chain drive = 1
Gear drive with fixed idler gear = 2
Gear drive with dual floater gear idlers = 3
True belt drive = 4
Not a lot of difference. Nascar runs belts for a reason. Drag Racers love gear drives. Pick your poison!
Cam-Drive Dyno Results Tested at Westech Performance Group SuperFlow 902 engine dyno All drives at 103 installed centerline Averages calculated from 3,100-6,600 rpmFixed Dual Drive Chain (1) GD (2) Idler (3) Jesel (4)
Peak HP 633.5 636.3 634.0 633.0
Peak TQ 595.4 596.3 596.3 594.2
Average HP 511.7 511.2 511.0 510.7
Average TQ 552.8 552.1 552.1 551.9
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-0510-camshaft-drive-comparison/#ixzz3eTCfN6zd