Pedaling with a D Lock: Leg Placement Solutions

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the challenges of using a D-lock on a road bike, particularly regarding leg placement while pedaling and concerns about bike security. Participants share their experiences, opinions on bike locks, and suggestions for mounting the lock.

Discussion Character

  • Debate/contested
  • Technical explanation
  • Conceptual clarification

Main Points Raised

  • One participant expresses frustration about their legs touching the D-lock while pedaling and seeks advice on solutions.
  • Another participant humorously questions the practicality of using a D-lock on a road bike, suggesting it may not be secure enough.
  • Concerns are raised about the effectiveness of D-locks in preventing bike theft, with some suggesting that removing wheels and seats may be necessary for valuable bikes.
  • Several participants share their experiences with bike theft and locking practices, with one noting they do not lock their bike due to low theft rates in their area.
  • Some participants discuss alternative locking methods, such as using a cable lock or carrying the D-lock in a messenger bag to avoid interference while pedaling.
  • There are mixed opinions on the appropriateness of the bike choice for the intended use, with some advocating for more practical options like touring or cyclocross bikes.
  • One participant shares their method of securing a lock on their mountain bike, highlighting the importance of being aware of theft risks.
  • A humorous comment suggests that using a D-lock on a road bike is socially unappealing.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants do not reach a consensus on the best locking method or the suitability of using a D-lock on a road bike. Multiple competing views and experiences are presented, indicating a lack of agreement on the topic.

Contextual Notes

Participants express varying levels of concern about theft, the effectiveness of different locking mechanisms, and the suitability of road bikes for certain riding conditions. Some suggestions depend on personal experiences and local contexts, which may not apply universally.

Who May Find This Useful

Individuals interested in bike security, those considering purchasing a road bike, and cyclists looking for practical advice on locking mechanisms may find this discussion relevant.

  • #31
cyrusabdollahi said:
I mean, look. All the bikes on the rack are going to be a crappy POS. And then there will be your nice spankin new road bike with a D-lock on it. Hmmmm, which bike would I steal if I were a thief?

Have you ever seen a nice road bike on a bicycle rack before? I never have. People who own road bikes take it inside with them, they don't leave them outside on a bike rack!

I give it a week before its gone.

If you don't listen to anything else, listen to this: Take your bike inside with you when you go places for more than 20 mins.
Hey Cyrus! Have you ridden your new bike yet? Hmm? Send a picture of you pushing 40 mph, or I WILL come and take it!

On a completely different, unrelated matter, what state do you live in?
 
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  • #32
I rode it last weekend. It was great. It gliddddddes down the road.


Washington, DC.
 
  • #33
pivoxa15 said:
I assume unis are safer than other places to park? .

I don't know about other campuses, but I know that bike theft is HUGE at UA. It's hard to find someone who hasn't had at least one bike stolen.
 
  • #34
chroot said:
It depends on how well you maintain your tires and wheels. To reduce flats you must:

  • Keep the tubes properly inflated (topping them off before each ride)
  • Check the rim tape each time you change tubes
  • Clean off your tires after going over any damp pavement or through any kind of debris
  • Use good techniques for installing new tubes (avoiding putting strain on the valve stem, properly seating the tube in the channel to minimize the risk of pinch flats, etc.)

You can probably reduce your flats to less than one in 500-750 km with some care. I don't believe it's possible to get 4000 km between flats without being incredibly lucky.

The best investment you can make (for your own sanity) is a good frame pump (like the Topeak Road Morph), a good set of tire levers, and a Saturday afternoon spent learning how to change tubes and reinstall wheels. You do not want to be learning how to do this in direct sunlight, baking on the side of some highway.

- Warren

I am often shocked by how often punctures occur in the Tour De France. I assume they change tubes daily. But some still puncture on the day.
 
  • #35
That's why they have a team car driving around behind them with extra bikes and tires.
 
  • #36
Chroot, you said road bikes are less resilient so not good for traveling purposes. But they would be less good to ride and train with too. However racers still ride a road bike for its speed. Even though I ride for traveling, I want the speed also. So I don't mind it being less resilient. The biggest difference between riding on road and training with no traffic or red light is the amount of braking one has to do. Does that do much damage to the bike?

Having said that, I think the amount of breaking one has to do riding on a bike trail is far more, especially if they are narror with steep hills and curly bends around corners.
 
  • #37
:confused: No, braking doesn't damage the bike. Sure, you'll have to change the brake pads more frequently, but that's not really damage.

What I meant is that road bikes require somewhat more attention and maintenance (tire inflation, derailer tension, etc.) than do other kinds of bikes. This is due to the high-pressure tires and the precise, narrow chain and 9- or 10-speed casettes. Racing wheels are also nowhere near as strong or stiff as those of mountain bikes, and will need to be trued more frequently, particularly if they are used on rough pavement.

- Warren
 

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