Appliances Replacing banker's lamp shade, the screw is too tight to loosen

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To replace a broken glass shade on a banker's lamp, the screw opposite the bulb fixture must be loosened, but it can be difficult to remove. Recommended methods for loosening the screw include applying penetrating oil or WD-40 and allowing it to sit for several hours or overnight. Using a Vise-Grip can provide a better grip, although it may damage the part. Heating the nut with a propane torch can help, as can using steam from a boiling kettle for localized heating. If necessary, cutting the nut or using a screw extractor may be required. It is also advised to check for any set screws and confirm that replacement parts are available at hardware stores.
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hi guys,

My banker's lamp glass shade was broken. I'm trying to replace with a new one but stuck at loosen the screw opposite of bulb fixture. the screw needs to be taken off in order to put the lamp shade on. but i couldn't loose the end screw by hand, with pliers it doesn't grip tight either.

any idea?
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Have you tried applying WD-40 on the screw and let it sit for a few hours? It should help with seized bolts or screws. My friend fixes bicycles, and WD-40 works like a charm for him.
 
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What is it made of - brass plated steel or real brass? These suggestions are for steel.

Try a shot of penetrating oil and let it set overnight. Apply several times a day for several days if necessary. Auto part stores all have penetrating oil.

Get a better grip on it with a Vise-Grip. Adjust the wrench so that you need both hands to close it. It will damage the part, but if that's what you need to do, then that's what you need to do.

Heat the nut with a propane torch, then turn it while still hot. You need to get it about red hot for this to work. The parts will be heat stained, but usually come apart. Mechanics refer to this as using a "fever wrench".

Cut the nut longitudinally, then split it with a cold chisel. The nut will be destroyed, but it will come off.
 
arabianights said:
... any idea?
If the rubber part is still soft, I would try inserting a sharp thin tool between it and the metal disc closer to the tip.
That will separate both surfaces and break any bond that has been formed.
Making a gap, I would also inject some soapy water in between, and all around.
 
Try turning both the nut AND the screw at the same time. This may take 2 (or 3) people to accomplish, with one also holding the female fitting (to hopefully avoid separating it from the frame).
 
Use some leather straps on the shiny parts to preserve them (as much as still possible).
Use two slightly bigger grip wrenches with curved jaws.
 
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I re-discovered PlusGas release fluid a while ago. It certainly worked after a good soaking. WD40 will often work but it's a bit of a jack of all trades and a specialist fluid might work when WD fails.
 
jrmichler said:
Get a better grip on it with a Vise-Grip. Adjust the wrench so that you need both hands to close it. It will damage the part, but if that's what you need to do, then that's what you need to do.
Vice Grips are the nuclear option. Given the nature of the project, I'd be extremely hesitant to use them

As others have mentioned, penetrating oil is a solid option. But I'd also suggest putting it into something warm to hot and letting it heat soak for a bit, then spraying ice cold water onto the screw threads. It should cause a brief period where there's no longer any chance of an interference fit and will give you a short window to try to drive the screw normally.
 
An alternative could be (if you have access ) to use two hammers applied either side of the nut and bring them them together (symmetrically and of equal weight) with a sharp 'rap'. That will compress one axis and pop out the other axis. It has worked for me with the very slightest resultant bruising, compared with grinch marks from a vase. Worth a go.

Or a small jeweller's / chef's blow torch with the finest flame.

Also steam out a a boiling kettle can cause local heating on the outside of the nut to expand it. The good thing about steam is the high energy transfer without too high a temperature.
 
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Ooooh! The steam is a good suggestion. Not terribly hot so less chance of discoloration of the metal, but certainly enough to get some expansion going.
 
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jrmichler said:
Get a better grip on it with a Vise-Grip.

Flyboy said:
Vice Grips are the nuclear option. Given the nature of the project, I'd be extremely hesitant to use them
The good news is that much of the lamp hardware is standard and available at he hardware store. I suppose you could check before applying the nuclear option. Also how much is visible with the shade in place?
Also be sure there are no set screws.
 
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hutchphd said:
The good news is that much of the lamp hardware is standard and available at he hardware store.
If that's the case, then there is another, even more drastic option.
Cut the offending hardware off in the threaded section, drill a hole into the stuck section, and use a screw/bolt extractor. God knows I did it plenty of times on planes when someone forgot to lube the stainless steel screws before driving them at high speed with their drill. :rolleyes:
 
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The OP seems to have gone away. Perhaps he solved the problem or perhaps he was scared off by the deluge of helpful PF responses to his post.
 
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  • #14
Having recently had to use a nut-splitter on a hand-bowl tap's reluctant stem fitting, then actually sawing stem off similar bath-tap --I could barely access back-nut, but not stem connector-- I feel for OP...
 
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