SMART reporting and Hard Disk buzzing sound

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers around a Toshiba DT01ACA300 internal hard drive exhibiting a buzzing sound and a concerning SMART report indicating 61 million read errors. Despite the SMART overall-health self-assessment passing, the drive's Raw_Read_Error_Rate and reallocated sectors raised alarms about its reliability. Users recommend backing up data immediately and considering replacement due to the drive's age (January 2014) and performance issues. The consensus is that excessive errors and unusual noises signal impending failure, warranting urgent action.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of SMART (Self-Monitoring, Analysis, and Reporting Technology) attributes
  • Familiarity with hard drive types, specifically SATA-3 and internal drives
  • Knowledge of RAID configurations, particularly ZFS and RAID verification processes
  • Experience with drive diagnostics and surface scanning tools
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  • Research Toshiba DT01ACA300 specifications and common failure modes
  • Learn about SMART attribute interpretation and significance
  • Explore RAID configurations and best practices for data redundancy
  • Investigate tools for performing surface scans and bad block testing
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This discussion is beneficial for system administrators, data recovery specialists, and anyone managing storage solutions, particularly those dealing with aging hard drives and RAID setups.

  • #31
fresh_42 said:
Thanks. Looks like an internal. They seem to be far less reliable than external ones (my experiences).
An external USB HDD these days usually contains a SATA internal HDD physically. I have a Seagate 4TB drive that used to be in an enclosure. The exact same drive was available at a higher price without the enclosure. Perhaps the USB SATA interface in the enclosure is less demanding than a direct internal SATA connection might be, but that is entirely an interface concern, and has nothing to do with the drive itself.
 
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  • #32
Vanadium 50 said:
Another update.

The raw read error rate is not the raw read error rate. :doh: It's actually logarithmic. A value of 73 means that you get an error every 20,000,000 reads. (10^7.3). Failing at 006 means every fourth read fails, and I would not use the word "failing" to describe that. More like "failed".

I just replaced a 320 GB Seagate DB35.3 that was in 24/7 use for 12 years. The only problem was that SMART tests took a (very) long time to finish, but after 12 years I figured I got my money's worth. The replacement isn't exactly new - it is a Seagate 500 GB that Amazon listed as New, but it wasn't new old stock or even new: it had 100 hours on it. And a filesystem. Amazon refunded my money and told me not to bother shipping it back. Can't complain about the service, but I suspect the business model is to sell lightly used drives as new, and do a refund only if someone notices and complains.
Amazon was probably merely passing forward the supplier's assessment of the supplier's product. if you want to critique Amazon regarding the matter, you might consider that the supplier was apparently not adequately pre-vetted, and that refunds aren't always an adequate remedy. I think that Amazon could do better.
 
  • #33
sysprog said:
Amazon was probably merely passing forward the supplier's assessment of the supplier's product.

I agree with that, except for the word "merely". That's Amazon's job.
 
  • #34
sysprog said:
The exact same drive was available at a higher price without the enclosure.

The4re is a whole counter-culture of people who "shuck" drives- buy a USB drive and remove the drive. When I replaced my years-old external for a larger one, I disassembled the unit to take a look inside. The USB-to-SATA connection is tiny, and if it didn't have an LED on it you could be excused for missing it.

The drive vendors have caught on to this, and their moral equivalent of the airlines' "Saturday night stay" is to disable drives if the 3.3V line is present. This is fairly simple to work around, although I have to question whether using a $30 roll of Kapton tape is really the best solution to save $15 on a drive.
 
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  • #35
Vanadium 50 said:
The4re is a whole counter-culture of people who "shuck" drives- buy a USB drive and remove the drive. When I replaced my years-old external for a larger one, I disassembled the unit to take a look inside. The USB-to-SATA connection is tiny, and if it didn't have an LED on it you could be excused for missing it.

The drive vendors have caught on to this, and their moral equivalent of the aorline's "Saturday night stay" is to disable drives if the 3.3V line is present. This is fairly simple to work around, although I have to question whether using a $30 roll of Kapton tape is really the best solution to save $15 on a drive.
On seeing this from you, I looked it up, and found that you can bypass the 3.3V rail by using a 4-pin Molex-to-SATA adapter to supply power to the HDD.
 
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  • #36
Yes, although modern supplies tend to have few Molex connectors. A SATA-to-SATA extension without an orange wire (or with a cut orange wire) will do the same thing.
 
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  • #37
Vanadium 50 said:
Yes, although modern supplies tend to have few Molex connectors. A SATA-to-SATA extension without an orange wire (or with a cut orange wire) will do the same thing.
The converter cables/adapters are not too expensive -- this one from Monoprice is $1.29 (USD):

1581280089033.png


I understand that the HDD might require the SATA end and the power supply might not like the MOLEX end, but one way or another, you can still use the HDD outside of the enclosure.
 
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  • #38
I don't know the origin of this but here it is:

##\mathtt{\text{If you have a problem and it can't be fixed with duct tape,}}##
##\mathtt{\text{it's 'cause you're not usin' enough duct tape.}}##​
 
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  • #39
One thing to keep in mind is that there are a lot of junk adapters out there that use wire that is too small. Most of them won't catch fire...

SATA is rated at 4.5 amps. Molex is rated at 11 amps. AWG23 would be the minimum gauge wire to power one SATA within spec. Most drives are < 10 W, so some manufacturers use AWG 26 ("probably" safe) or even AWG 28 (hey, there's a safety margin of 2, right?).
 
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  • #40
The twin of the RMA'ed drive back in July is throwing read errors. Grrrr...
 
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