A Hickory hatchet is a good addition to the tool box.
Do you follow Joe's classic arcade games on youtube? A lot of the old machines had very standard TTL/Cmos logic circuits that aren't too hard to fix.. really great channel https://www.youtube.com/@LyonsArcadeswampwiz said:My electrical hobbyisting is more or less limited to restoring & maintaining a herd of pinball machines, of both the electromechanical and digital vintage, and I typically take the attitude of buying a new remanufactured circuit board whenever an the OEM board fails the rudimentary test that techs would go through to figure out if it needed to be swapped out - or failing that, aside from checking individual resistors, diodes, transistors and capacitors that appear a possible cause of failure, shipping it out to someone to repair it; I consider any chip to be a "black box" and don't fool with it. I work on a few other basic things like a vintage lamp or traffic signal, but this is all pretty basic. I once diagnosed that the soldered in fuses on the circuit board on my Kill-A-Watt were blown, so I fixed that. Also, one time I got a remanufactured fuse/power board for one my machines that was all screwed up, and I had to modify it by hand, cutting some board lines and soldering in jumpers, but what was a real pain was having to reseat the pin connections (the guy making them claimed that the pinball parts retailer gave him the wrong specs, but it was pretty obvious that this idiot had looked at the drawing upside down).
As for my toolkit, I have a 120W pistol solder gun, and a variable (up to 50W) ice-pick solder, and all the regular accoutrements thereof, but the solder vacuum I have is this beautiful piece of engineering, and worth the 6X price from the standard ones:
For wire, I had originally bought a rainbow of 25-foot spools of 18 Ga hookup wire, and I still have some of that remaining. I've also bought a rainbow 22 Ga wire (1-foot sections) for the few times when I have leads that are too small for the 18 Ga. I rarely need a wire for more than 10A (which the 18 Ga wire handles), and for the few times I need more, I just double up. I also have some wire harnesses scavenged from a few machines, and lately I've been using that.
I have for my main multimeter the Ideal 61-361, which has a wonderful rubber case that seems to make it near indestructible (I would post a link to it, but Amazon doesn't seem to have it anymore). The only problem is that it doesn't have a good range for capacitors, so I bought another multimeter that has a good range, and it serves as a spare.
I have over 2 dozen different models of fuses (mainly 6 x 30 mm appliance-style), for seemingly every possible amperage, fast & slow blow, etc., and try to keep at least 5 on hand in case I have to attrit them to solve the problem.
I think I have about a dozen pairs in various colors of alligator clip jump wires that appear to be 20 Ga (I guess I should measure the resistance to back out the Ga), but I have some 14 Ga ones that I use for high current applications. I'd like to be able to buy more good ones in different colors. I've been thinking about making my own.
I've got some wire strippers, and a Molex crimper (which I had to use extensively to replace about 100 total wires in a bunch of harnesses).
I've got a bunch of flat-edge connectors (male & female) that are supposed to be for 14-18 Ga, a bunch of eyehole connectors for 16-22 Ga, and the whole gamut of thimble connectors in their standard colors (grey/blue/orange/yellow/red in ascending size) - which I always prefer to use instead of soldering whenever possible. I seem to use the blue a lot, and will soon be buying another pack of that.
I have DeOxit contact cleaner, which is the best I've come across, and Brasso and a steel or brass brush for the really caked up contacts. I also use 0000 steel wool sometimes, but one has to be careful to clean up all the little hairs!
Digital pinball machines? Did not know such a thing existed. And I was around in the 80s, when electromechanical pinball machines and early video games coexisted for a while.swampwiz said:...pinball machines, of both the electromechanical and digital vintage, ...
Uh, digital pinball machines came out in 1977-79. No one has made an electromechanical pinball machine since 1978 (I am not counting bingo games).Redbelly98 said:Digital pinball machines? Did not know such a thing existed. And I was around in the 80s, when electromechanical pinball machines and early video games coexisted for a while.
I would rather a freshly made board to an original; I wouldn't mind fixing such a new board, but the whole idea is that they are much more relaible.Rx7man said:Do you follow Joe's classic arcade games on youtube? A lot of the old machines had very standard TTL/Cmos logic circuits that aren't too hard to fix.. really great channel https://www.youtube.com/@LyonsArcade
I'm just recalling what I was seeing in arcades and bars in the 80s. I specifically remember this one, which this site claims came out in 1987. That jives with my seeing and playing it around 1987-88.swampwiz said:Uh, digital pinball machines came out in 1977-79. No one has made an electromechanical pinball machine since 1978 (I am not counting bingo games).
Pinball machines had been digital since up to 10 years before this.Redbelly98 said:I'm just recalling what I was seeing in arcades and bars in the 80s. I specifically remember this one, which this site claims came out in 1987. That jives with my seeing and playing it around 1987-88.
Were you seeing them yourself in widespread use?swampwiz said:Pinball machines had been digital since up to 10 years before this.
Yes, I remember playing digitals in late 70s; they had pretty much taken over everywhere.Redbelly98 said:Were you seeing them yourself in widespread use?
I'm not saying they didn't exist, but it can take a while for new things to catch on. Or they can catch on in some parts of the country (or world) well before othersYesYes, I .
Well. I've just had a really bad case of WD40 'No Problem' recentlyswampwiz said:No, it is now moving -> No Problem