How do I use a turnbuckle effectively?

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the effective use of turnbuckles in sailboat rigging, particularly focusing on their installation, thread engagement, and performance under load. Participants explore the implications of thread stripping and the mechanical properties of turnbuckles in a sailing context.

Discussion Character

  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Exploratory

Main Points Raised

  • One participant describes their experience with turnbuckles that stripped threads during use, raising concerns about installation and operational range.
  • Another participant suggests that approximately twice the diameter of the screw should be the minimum thread engagement for safety, referencing general rules of thumb for thread engagement.
  • A different participant mentions that full strength is typically achieved with seven turns of engagement, but notes that the quality of the threads may affect performance.
  • Concerns are raised about the potential for galling of stainless steel threads if adjusted under load without lubrication, which could lead to further damage.
  • Some participants discuss the implications of having play in the turnbuckle, questioning whether this indicates insufficient thread overlap and potential weakness.
  • One participant reflects on the cost difference between their turnbuckles and higher-priced alternatives, suggesting that quality may be a factor in their performance issues.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing views on the adequacy of thread engagement and the effects of installation practices, indicating that there is no consensus on the best practices for using turnbuckles effectively.

Contextual Notes

Participants mention various factors that could influence the performance of turnbuckles, including the quality of the threads, the method of installation, and the effects of lateral vibrations during sailing. There are unresolved questions about the optimal thread engagement and the implications of having play in the turnbuckle assembly.

  • #31
jack action said:
You have jam nuts. Use the jam nuts. More in the following video about jam nuts and lock wires:


As an obvious point for those that have not watched the video (time 2:40):
Jam nuts ADD to the strain on the threads, making them more likely to strip/fail.
Please keep it in mind!

Cheers,
Tom
 
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  • #32
OK, I tried google and failed; honestly, I tried. What is a SeaSaw? Bonus points for a picture.
I'd trade you for a picture of my last boat, a C&C 33, but you could just google that.
 
  • #34
Baluncore said:
or maximum adjustment range, turnbuckles are usually made with the two bolts,
That's not the only reason . Having a LH and RH thread means you don't need a swivel in the rigging; the only thing that rotates is the body of the turnbuckle.
 
  • #35
Tom.G said:
Jam nuts ADD to the strain on the threads,
My turnbuckles used a split pin through the tip of each bolt which wouldn't turn once it met the frame of the buckle (no stress on the bolt at that point). Not very strong and you could bend the pin but I never found one that undid itself.
 
  • #36
DaveE said:
OK, I tried google and failed; honestly, I tried. What is a SeaSaw? Bonus points for a picture.
I'd trade you for a picture of my last boat, a C&C 33, but you could just google that.
Aren't you sweet for asking!

MacGregor 26X powersailor with Honda BF50D.

1727922487197.jpeg

Top sailing speed: 7.0 knots (.6 knots over hull speed)
Top power speed: 14 knots

Baluncore said:
Teeter Totter ?
What do you think I named my dinghy launch? :wink:

sophiecentaur said:
My turnbuckles used a split pin through the tip of each bolt which wouldn't turn once it met the frame of the buckle (no stress on the bolt at that point). Not very strong and you could bend the pin but I never found one that undid itself.
Yes. These new $75 turnbuckles have that. My slipmate has a bigger boat with bigger TBs and I see he's taken out the split pins and inserted ring dings.
1727922918238.png

I think I will follow suit.
 
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  • #37
Someone elseweb asked for a comparison of the $14 vs. $75 bolt threads:
1727922824224.png
 
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  • #38
DaveC426913 said:
What do you think I named my dinghy launch?
TT.
Like my 'Lady Mondegreen' and the tender 'Miss Heard'.
 
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  • #39
DaveC426913 said:
I think I will follow suit.
Very fiddly to use those rings and you really need strong fingernails. But they work well and don't do the damage that the sharp ends on split pins. Swings and roundabouts.
 
  • #40
Baluncore said:
TT.
Like my 'Lady Mondegreen' and the tender 'Miss Heard'.
That's clever!
 
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  • #41
sophiecentaur said:
Very fiddly to use those rings and you really need strong fingernails.
Totally Agree. I hate em.
That they're all right-hand optimized makes it doubly frustrating.

sophiecentaur said:
But they work well and don't do the damage that the sharp ends on split pins. Swings and roundabouts.
Exactly.
 
  • #42
sophiecentaur said:
That's not the only reason . Having a LH and RH thread means you don't need a swivel in the rigging; the only thing that rotates is the body of the turnbuckle.
That assumes both bolts have the same pitch.

Less common LH threads are not required for a "body-only-turning" turnbuckle.

Differential pitch bolts of the same hand, can achieve the same adjustment range, with an optional advantage of length adjustment finer than the thread pitch employed.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_screw
 
  • #43
Baluncore said:
That assumes both bolts have the same pitch.
Baluncore said:
Less common LH threads

These bolts wouldn't just be 'out of the drawer of random bolts'. Is it at all unlikely that they would not match, by chance. The two ends could be sourced differently so one just could be weaker than the other but the geometry would be the same for each.

And have you a marine example of a differential turnbuckle? :biggrin: I'd bet you could scour the catalogues for a long time before you found one.
 

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