A Road Bike Primer: Entry Level vs Non-Entry Bikes

[bartieshaw]

I'm almost embarrassed to admit how much I've spent on cycling...

Two bikes, total retail value: $2500
HID headlight: $400
Clipless pedals and shoes: $350
Accessories (pump, saddle bag, field tools, etc.): $150
Clothing (including helmet, etc.): probably nearing $1000 now

I wouldn't feel too embarrassed, how much do you ride?

at the moment my expenditure is something along the lines of

Bike: $3600
Shoes and Pedals: $450
Clothing: $1000

dont get me started on the amount spent on tudes, tires etc...

My next bike I am getting for my 21st in six months (a present to myself). Am building up a LOOK 585 Ultra frame with Record / Chorus mix, Eurus wheels and FSA accessories. most recent quote was a tad under $10000 (AUS)

sometimes i think is it worth spending that much (i do ride a lot), but then i just think all the benefits I've gotton from it and how happy cycling makes me, and there is nothing more satisfying than finishing high up in the sprint at your local crits.

so, whatever you do. don't be embarrased...

 

[Chi Meson]

If you put up the cash early, the bike should last a long time. My '92 Specialized epic is still going. Was about $1800 new back then (but 50% off for me 'cause I worked at the shop). I've been planning on a new one each year for the last five years, but keep thinking "oh, just one more year."

The carbon frame is the key. No rust, and highly preferred over aluminum (my opinion).

And speaking of chainrings and teeth, I can see the progress of my age by looking at my previous clusters (all with a Ritchey 38/53 crank):
age 26--30, 11x19 (8 speed) [and this was riding the hills around the Willamette Valley near Portland]
age 31--35, 12x21 (8 speed) [the hilly roads in Connecticut are short, but steep]
age 36--40, 11x23 (9 speed)[the hills seem to be getting longer or steeper]
age 41-----, 12x25 (9 speed)[screw it, I'm old]

See how that big 'un keeps growing? If anyone said to me 10 years ago that I'd still have this bike, but with a 25 for a low gear, I'd've... I don't know what I would have done. I think I've said goodbye forever to an 11 tooth high gear.

BTW, I totally agree with Chroot's recommendation that you get the bike fit for you at a shop.

 

[chaoseverlasting]

Whoa. Thats steep for a bike. I mean, I bought a road bike that's fairly light and in good working condition after three years of use for 1000 Rs. That about $25.

 

[chroot]

By fit do you mean the size? The bike only comes in 3 sizes. The seat post is adjustable and I like it high with the leg nearly straight at full stretch when peddaling.

Well, most road bikes come in perhaps five or six sizes, rather than three. (That's a warning bell right there.) Unfortunately, bicycles are not like pants, where all you have to do is find the right size and put 'em on. They're more like shoes: even if a shoe is the right size for you, it may not feel good on your feet.

Essentially, everyone's bodies are different. The ratio of the lengths of their legs, torsos, and arms are all different. Their centers of gravity are different. As a result, each bicycle will fit certain body types better than others. If you go test ride a number of bikes, what you'll find is that some bikes just feel natural, handle beautifully, and react to your movements effortlessly. (These bikes fit.) On the other hand, other bikes will put you in postures that feel unpleasant, will cause you discomfort in your wrists or neck, won't handle well, and will feel sluggish or twitchy or squirrely. (These bikes do not fit.)

You can adjust a bike to better fit you by replacing stems, cranks, seat posts, and other bits. These adjustments are really only good for a half-inch or so, though; they're more like "tweaks." If a bike really just doesn't feel good at all when you ride it, you're not going to be able to adjust it enough to make it fit well.

It's actually fairly common for cyclists to have their hearts set on some beautiful new bicycle, only to find that it really doesn't fit them in the end.

How do you fit any way? They only let you test ride a bike over 20-30 meters in the back of the shop and so how can you determine the fit from that?

If a shop will only let you ride a bike for 20-30 meters, you need to yell at them, and go to another shop. Any decent shop will let you test ride a bike for at least a couple of miles. Most will give you directions for a short loop or course on the streets around the shop.

Fit is done by putting you on your bike on a trainer, and observing your posture and pedal stroke. They will adjust things like seat height, seat position fore and aft, stem length and rise, etc. Any decent bike shop should offer at least a basic fitting (15 minutes or so) included in the purchase of a new road bike.

I don't like the idea of pumping the tires up each time. I am more looking at a commutor bike for this purchase. But I also like to pretend I am Ulrich or something around the tour de france season each year. I only like to buy one bike so a road bike it is but a cheap one will do for my purposes? Although don't forget this one should actually cost $905 so isn't cheap at all. It is discounted to $500. I think I mentioned a $1000 bike as upper range but this one is it.

This bike is absolutely ludicrously overprived at $905 AUD. Seriously, you'd have to be a complete bonehead to buy this bike at that price. I doubt that it's ever sold anywhere near that price, and instead is just perpetually "on sale." A $1k AUD bike should come with at least a Tiagra/105 mix (two steps higher than this bike) and name-brand wheelset, unless bikes are very much more expensive in Australia than in the US due to import taxes or something. For a little perspective, can you tell me what the Specialized Allez (an excellent entry-level bike) costs in your neighborhood?

Again, I recommend that you completely forget about buying a bike online, and go to your local bike shop. (You honestly don't have enough experience to make a wise purchase on a bike you've never seen or ridden before.) Try out the entry-level offerings from the big-name manufacturers -- each will have one or two bikes in your price range -- and pick the one that fits best.

- Warren

 

[Chi Meson]

Whoa. Thats steep for a bike. I mean, I bought a road bike that's fairly light and in good working condition after three years of use for 1000 Rs. That about $25.

If you don't know what you're missing, then it doesn't bother you. I assure you, I would have never biked 500 miles in one week on a $25 bike. (that was 28-year-old me, it's down to 500 miles per year now).

 

[chroot]

Well, in truth, your "cycling habits" dictate the kind of equipment you need.

If all you're doing is tooling around the neighborhood or getting some light exercise, you don't need much of a bike at all. Nor do you need clipless pedals, special shorts, or anything else.

Once you start regularly doing rides in excess of 25 miles, or maintaining high levels of exertion (hill-climbing, pacelining) for long periods of time, you're going to need (or at least appreciate) better equipment.

- Warren

 

[pivoxa15]

Well, most road bikes come in perhaps five or six sizes, rather than three. (That's a warning bell right there.) Unfortunately, bicycles are not like pants, where all you have to do is find the right size and put 'em on. They're more like shoes: even if a shoe is the right size for you, it may not feel good on your feet.

Essentially, everyone's bodies are different. The ratio of the lengths of their legs, torsos, and arms are all different. Their centers of gravity are different. As a result, each bicycle will fit certain body types better than others. If you go test ride a number of bikes, what you'll find is that some bikes just feel natural, handle beautifully, and react to your movements effortlessly. (These bikes fit.) On the other hand, other bikes will put you in postures that feel unpleasant, will cause you discomfort in your wrists or neck, won't handle well, and will feel sluggish or twitchy or squirrely. (These bikes do not fit.)

You can adjust a bike to better fit you by replacing stems, cranks, seat posts, and other bits. These adjustments are really only good for a half-inch or so, though; they're more like "tweaks." If a bike really just doesn't feel good at all when you ride it, you're not going to be able to adjust it enough to make it fit well.

It's actually fairly common for cyclists to have their hearts set on some beautiful new bicycle, only to find that it really doesn't fit them in the end.
If a shop will only let you ride a bike for 20-30 meters, you need to yell at them, and go to another shop. Any decent shop will let you test ride a bike for at least a couple of miles. Most will give you directions for a short loop or course on the streets around the shop.

Fit is done by putting you on your bike on a trainer, and observing your posture and pedal stroke. They will adjust things like seat height, seat position fore and aft, stem length and rise, etc. Any decent bike shop should offer at least a basic fitting (15 minutes or so) included in the purchase of a new road bike.
This bike is absolutely ludicrously overprived at $905 AUD. Seriously, you'd have to be a complete bonehead to buy this bike at that price. I doubt that it's ever sold anywhere near that price, and instead is just perpetually "on sale." A $1k AUD bike should come with at least a Tiagra/105 mix (two steps higher than this bike) and name-brand wheelset, unless bikes are very much more expensive in Australia than in the US due to import taxes or something. For a little perspective, can you tell me what the Specialized Allez (an excellent entry-level bike) costs in your neighborhood?

Again, I recommend that you completely forget about buying a bike online, and go to your local bike shop. (You honestly don't have enough experience to make a wise purchase on a bike you've never seen or ridden before.) Try out the entry-level offerings from the big-name manufacturers -- each will have one or two bikes in your price range -- and pick the one that fits best.
- Warren

I am not thinking of buying over the net. That shop from the link in the OP is close to where I live. On the site it even said that the bike wasn't for sale online.

Could you then recommend any other bikes on that site? I think that shop is good because it is one of the biggest in my city.

Which Specialised Allez?
SPECIALIZED ALLEZ SPORT? It is $1300
http://www.thebikebarn.com.au/liverpool/racing.htm although not in my city.

Another one at $900 in my area in another shop is
http://www.fitzroycycles.com.au/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1267
which seems similar to that discounted one RRP$905.

 

[berkeman]

http://www.cctrail.org/CCT_Photo_Album.htm

Here is the trail I usually go to. I still have not had time to take out my new Fuji Team on it yet though.

Here is a route that chroot might typically ride -- Palo Alto in Silicon Valley over to the Pacific Ocean. That's a fun mountain range. I mostly ride mountain bikes, so I'm not great at the long road climbs. I'm getting my old road bike back together to work more on my road hillclimbing. This thread has been very helpful -- thanks folks!

http://www.paloaltotothepacific.org/gps/PaloAltoToThePacific-Profile.jpg

 

[ray b]

BUY USED
unless you race, and are very very good
then the team will buy you a bike

I like campie not japan bits
and my last bike is all campie with a old school steel frame
and it cost me 150 us d
but would retail about 2k if new in a shop or more these days
any bike under 20 lbs and with good bearings is fine to ride on the street
overkill just wastes $$$$$ and attracks thieves

I have had al alloy frames but they are too stiff alan and a trek
carbon maybe nice but it can crack and costs way too much
bennelli and others make good bikes
yes you need a frame that fits your body
but as I am near avg 5 10 160 lbs that's not hard to find for me

and if really riding in mud or rain a lot
I would forget a road style bike
and get a hybred or even a full mountian hard tail

 

[pivoxa15]

I just bought that bike on sale. It is good. The biggest problem I have with it is that my crotch hurts a lot because I haven't done any riding for over a year so its not use to sitting on a stiff saddle. I guess this problem will happen on any saddle.

The back brakes are a bit far apart, I think. The gap can be clearly seen (about 2mm) but the front brakes have very tiny gaps (between pads and rim) which makes braking much easier. I should get them to make the brakes closer on the rear ones?

Road bikes don't come with a stand do they. Do people find that annoying? For example, the other day, the chain came off and I had to walk to the nearrest post to do the adjusting whereas had I a stand, I could have done it on the spot.

 

[pivoxa15]

What assessories are useful for commuting on a road bike?

I'll list all the stuff I think is good:
Helmet
Lock
drink holder
mud guard
bell
stand
lights - rear and front
reflectors on each wheel

Any others?

 

[imabug]

What assessories are useful for commuting on a road bike?
...
Any others?

tire pump
flat repair kit

 

[Cyrus]

What assessories are useful for commuting on a road bike?

I'll list all the stuff I think is good:
Helmet
Lock
drink holder
mud guard
bell
stand
lights - rear and front
reflectors on each wheel

Any others?

Mud guard, bell, stand... how about a nice basket in the front too, with pink streamers on each handel bar?

Honestly, I don't think you should buy a road bike, because none of these things are on a quality road bike. Its only been what, 3 people, who have told you there's no mud gaurds on a road bike? But hey, who cares what were telling you, right? Slap them on that bad boy!

 

[Cyrus]

I found the perfect bike for you:

http://www.live2bike.com/Articles/14-Touring.jpg

A total piece of trash, and probably over-priced as well. God, what a horrible monstrosity.

 

[Chi Meson]

Is there supposed to be a link there, Cyrus?

BTW, you better get on that bike of yours, TODAY, or I'm comin' out to take it from you!

 

[berkeman]

What assessories are useful for commuting on a road bike?

I'll list all the stuff I think is good:
Helmet
Lock
drink holder
mud guard
bell
stand
lights - rear and front
reflectors on each wheel

Any others?

I'd recommend getting the plastic inner tube guard bands (I forget what they're called). You put them in the tires before you put in the tubes, and they provide a fair bit of puncture protection. I'd also recommend heavy-duty inner tubes, again for flat protection. They make your tires a bit heavier, but for commuting, I think the extra weight is worth it.

 

[chroot]

What assessories are useful for commuting on a road bike?

I'll list all the stuff I think is good:
Helmet
Lock
drink holder
mud guard
bell
stand
lights - rear and front
reflectors on each wheel

Any others?

You don't need to take the bike to a shop to adjust the brakes. The brakes should have a barrel adjuster (basically a plastic bit that you can rotate) to tighten or loosen the brake cable, so you can put the brake caliper in the position you want. Look at both ends of the brake cable, near the brake lever and near the caliper, for a barrel adjuster.

Road bikes do not come with stands, because you virtually never need to use one in practice. It's easy to stand road bikes up against curbs and so on. For field repairs, many people just turn the bike upside down, resting on its saddle and handlebars, while they do their repairs. If you really want a stand, Topeak makes a small foldable one called the QuickStand that you could put in a saddle bag. It's much better than a kickstand, because it allows you to get the rear wheel off the ground while you're working on the bike. I've considered carrying one of these, only because I end up helping people repair their bikes all the time.

imabug is correct that you missed the absolute most important two accessories: a patch kit and an air pump. Almost nothing else matters if you're stuck ten miles from home with a flat tire. I also do not consider a helmet to be an "accessory," but a necessity.

The only wearable accessories that I find very useful are gloves and a rear-view mirror mounted on the helmet or handlebars.

Here's a list of all the things that I carry with me on every bike ride, in my saddle bag:

• Two spare tubes
• Patch kit with actual vulcanizing glue
• 120 psi capable air pump (Topeak Road Morph G, the best on the market)
• Small 8-bit multi-tool (Topeak Tool Bar) (note that you don't need 300 tools on a four-pound multi-tool. Your bike probably only has three or four different sizes of fasteners!)
• Chain tool
• One pair of latex gloves
• Two very strong tire levers
• Several large bandages
• Packet of antibiotic ointment
• $20 bill wrapped around a credit card, medical insurance card, and driver's license.

This may sound like an awful lot of stuff, but it's only about a pound, and has saved my butt so many times I can't even list them all.

I'll also note that if you have proper lighting, your wheel reflectors are mostly useless. I wear clothing with reflective panels at night, and have side-firing blinking lights on the front and rear of the bike.

- Warren

 

[pivoxa15]

tire pump
flat repair kit

Yep, have them already. Forgot to list them previously.

 

[pivoxa15]

Mud guard, bell, stand... how about a nice basket in the front too, with pink streamers on each handel bar?

Honestly, I don't think you should buy a road bike, because none of these things are on a quality road bike. Its only been what, 3 people, who have told you there's no mud gaurds on a road bike? But hey, who cares what were telling you, right? Slap them on that bad boy!

As far as I remember mud guards are not good because of a fashion thing. I don't find that too problematic. I use it mostly for commuting so don't want my backback wet too much on a wet day. But I also like to pretend I'm Ulrich when riding as well so definitely need a road bike for that. Plus its a bonus if I can travel fast hence less time on the road.

 

[Cyrus]

I think we already told you NOT to ride a road bike in the rain.

I've done it last summer on my local bike path. It was a light drizzle and then some moderate rain. I decided to ride when it started drizzling because I wanted to ride that day and I didnt really care. I was going a good clip, and from time to time the tires would lose traction. Now, I was on a bike trail. Would I do that on the road? Not in a million years.

 

[chroot]

Road bike tires are barely capable of dealing with damp pavement, much less full-on rain. If you choose to ride a road bike in the rain, at least take very special care when crossing painted surfaces, as you will have absolutely no traction on them. Edge stripes and dashed lane separators can be deadly.

- Warren

 

[pivoxa15]

So I'd have to leave my bike in the campus overnight? Or at some shopping centre. That would not be good either due to theives and what have you.

If it was raining before leaving home than I would consider taking the bus. Also if it was raining during a competition, they wouldn't call it off would they? Plus Armstrong said that he wouldn't ride only if there was a cyclone. So it is still safe to ride in the rain. However might not be if there is traffic?

 

[chroot]

You do not want a road bike. Road bikes are not designed for the kind of use you want to put them to. That's what everyone here has been trying to tell you for four pages. Don't buy a road bike.

- Warren

 

[Cyrus]

So I'd have to leave my bike in the campus overnight? Or at some shopping centre. That would not be good either due to theives and what have you.

If it was raining before leaving home than I would consider taking the bus. Also if it was raining during a competition, they wouldn't call it off would they? Plus Armstrong said that he wouldn't ride only if there was a cyclone. So it is still safe to ride in the rain. However might not be if there is traffic?

I disagree warren. I think he should spend his money on a road bike so he learns his lessons the hard way.

(pound, pound, pound) <-[Will be the sound of him pounding himself in the head]

Hey, he wants to pretend to be Ulrich, and that's what's matters most, right?

 

[Maxwell]

I'm also thinking of buying a bike. I'm really out of shape, and I'd like to start biking to get some exercise and to get around town without using my car.

I have a bunch of questions, which maybe have be answered in this thread (I've been reading through it very quickly). If I ask a question that has been answered, just let me know which post # it has been answered in and I'll re-read it.

1) What style of bike should I use for exercise & traveling? I don't plan on riding 500 miles a week, not even close. I'll probably been riding on roads only, but I don't know - maybe there are some nice trails around here.

2) Do I really need to spend over $1k on my first bike? Or is a very cheap/used bike reasonable? I'm basically looking for brands that are good, so maybe I can find something used. I'm not opposed to putting $1k down eventually, once I've been doing this for a while, but not right away.

3) Another issue - my size. I'm pretty big, about 6'1 and 290 lbs (see why I want to start biking?). Am I going to need to special order a bike for someone my size? Also, what type of bike will make biking more enjoyable for me? I have not been on a bike in over 10 years, so I don't know how I'll be able to ride at all. I'm planning for the worst. In fact, I haven't done ANY exercise in a long, long time.

So, basically, I'm looking for suggestions so I can start riding again. I really want to start biking for exercise and to get around. I'm sort of hesitant to start because there's so many things I need to look for, and I don't really want to spend a lot of money right away.

I'll be glad to hear any suggestions.

Thanks.

 

[chroot]

I'm also thinking of buying a bike. I'm really out of shape, and I'd like to start biking to get some exercise and to get around town without using my car.

Awesome! We're proud of you for making such a great decision.

1) What style of bike should I use for exercise & traveling? I don't plan on riding 500 miles a week, not even close. I'll probably been riding on roads only, but I don't know - maybe there are some nice trails around here.

Bicycles cover a spectrum. On one end, you have bikes that sacrifice comfort and practicality for speed. These are the high-end, $2k+ road racing bikes. I don't think you're in the market for this kind of bike. On the other end of the spectrum are the commuter and hybrid bicycles, which are heavier, slower, and don't handle as well, yet are much cheaper, much more practical, and much more comfortable.

2) Do I really need to spend over $1k on my first bike? Or is a very cheap/used bike reasonable? I'm basically looking for brands that are good, so maybe I can find something used. I'm not opposed to putting $1k down eventually, once I've been doing this for a while, but not right away.

Decent road bikes start at around $600-$700. The best price-point in terms of features per dollars is at around $1k, which is why that number pops up a lot.

If you choose to buy another style of bike, you can easily keep the cost under $500. Make sure you buy your bike from a reputable shop -- don't buy your first bike online, or at Costco, or from a previous owner. Once you have more experience riding, you'll be able to make those kinds of purchases with more confidence. For now, you'd be better off having someone show you a number of different models and letting you test ride them.

3) Another issue - my size. I'm pretty big, about 6'1 and 290 lbs (see why I want to start biking?). Am I going to need to special order a bike for someone my size? Also, what type of bike will make biking more enjoyable for me? I have not been on a bike in over 10 years, so I don't know how I'll be able to ride at all. I'm planning for the worst. In fact, I haven't done ANY exercise in a long, long time.

The truth is that road racing bikes are almost exclusively designed for riders under 200 lbs. Many of them come with wheels that simply cannot support a 300 lb load without being dangerous. If even for this reason alone, I'd suggest something other than a road racing bike.

Most hybrids and mountain bikes are designed to withstand much larger impacts, and thus are capable of handling bigger riders.

Your height is not much of an issue -- most shops will either have bikes that fit a tall rider, or will be able to get one drop-shipped from a nearby warehouse in a day or two.

If I were you, I'd look into some of the hybrid models. Look into the Trek Navigator series, the Specialized Globe series, the Giant Sedona, and other bikes in that category. They all feature relaxed geometries (meaning you can sit upright without straining your back), comfortable seats, and wheels and tires that will easily handle anything from road use to gentle off-road use. Many of them are priced at or under $500. I'm actually considering getting a Specialized Globe myself to complement my racing-oriented bikes.

I also strongly suggest that you go hang out at www.bikeforums.net for a while -- you'll learn an absolute ton. They have an entire forum dedicated to bicycle commuting, as well as an entire forum dedicated to bicycling as a means for weight loss. Good luck to you!

- Warren

 

[Maxwell]

Awesome, thank you so much for the info. I'm going to head to my local bike shop today and try out a bunch of different bikes.

I'll also check out the bike forums. This is something I'd really like to get into, so thanks again for the info.

 

[mheslep]

... I'd also recommend heavy-duty inner tubes, again for flat protection. They make your tires a bit heavier, but for commuting, I think the extra weight is worth it.

After being besieged by flats on the commute I looked into the heavy tubes and my take was don't do it. The heavier tube means less space between the top of the tube and the rim so when you do hit that pot hole/curb there's increased chance of a pinch and a snake bite flat. Of course the heavy tube is more sharp-object puncture resistant but IMO a better/heavier tire is the best answer for that.

 

[berkeman]

After being besieged by flats on the commute I looked into the heavy tubes and my take was don't do it. The heavier tube means less space between the top of the tube and the rim so when you do hit that pot hole/curb there's increased chance of a pinch and a snake bite flat. Of course the heavy tube is more sharp-object puncture resistant but IMO a better/heavier tire is the best answer for that.

Actually, after having a problem changing a heavy-duty tube last night with my son, I'll have to water down my recommendation of heavy-duty bike tubes. However, I still recommend the plastic liner things.

 

[chroot]

In my experience, the most common causes of flats are:

1. Under-inflation.
2. Poorly maintained rim tape.
3. Poor tube installation techniques that result in stress on the valve stem, or leave opportunities for pinch flats.

I ride race tires with ultra-light tubes, yet still only have about one flat every 500 miles or so.

- Warren