A Road Bike Primer: Entry Level vs Non-Entry Bikes

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers on the differences between entry-level and non-entry-level road bikes, specifically highlighting the 2007 Diamondback Criterium. Key distinctions include frame construction, component quality (notably Shimano Sora vs. Shimano 105), and overall performance. Participants emphasize the importance of bike fit and recommend purchasing from reputable manufacturers like Giant, Trek, or Specialized. Accessories such as clipless pedals and appropriate clothing for varying temperatures are also discussed, with a consensus against using mud guards on road bikes.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of road bike components (e.g., Shimano Sora and Shimano 105)
  • Knowledge of bike fit principles for optimal riding comfort
  • Familiarity with cycling clothing for different weather conditions
  • Awareness of road bike accessories, including clipless pedals and lighting systems
NEXT STEPS
  • Research the differences between Shimano Sora and Shimano 105 components
  • Learn about bike fitting techniques and their importance in cycling
  • Explore various cycling clothing options for different temperature ranges
  • Investigate reputable road bike manufacturers and their entry-level models
USEFUL FOR

Beginner cyclists, road bike enthusiasts, and anyone looking to purchase their first road bike will benefit from this discussion.

  • #61
I hit occasional little patches of stuff, including those obnoxious little thorn things. I try to keep an eye out, but sometimes get surprised.
 
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  • #62
Some of the advice about road bikes seems to apply only to racing bikes. Such as not being designed for cargo or inclement weather. Or so it seems to me, I'm far from expert. I have an older Miyata 1000 touring bike which I don't use much, but I certainly don't hesitate to add things like a light, odometer, water bottle etc. I rode it on wet cobblestones in Paris, with four full panniers and a small pack behind the seat, but I don't recommend that.

Where I live I find a touring bike less than ideal. It's light and easy to pedal but there are places where I might want to hit the gravel or hop onto the sidewalk to avoid traffic, so a mountain bike would be safer. I'm also an inexpert rider.
 
  • #63
At least in the US, the term "road bike" almost exclusively means "road racing bike." There are other kinds of bikes which have slick tires and are meant to be used on pavement -- like touring and cyclocross bikes -- but they are generally not called "road bikes."

- Warren
 
  • #64
So when the people riding the Tour de France ride a section on cobble stone, do they change their bikes? Or do they still use a road racing bike?

Is any D lock good? How are Tioga D locks?

http://www.bikes.com.au/c/124827/1/tioga.html

What does it take to break them?
 
  • #65
How often should I take the bike to a service?

They recommand taking a new bike to the first service after riding 200km. Why is that? They do often free servicing for a year. How often should I take it to be serviced after that?
 
  • #66
The biggest reason is because your shifter and brake cable will stretch a cm or two within the first couple of months of use. You can "fix" this yourself by turning your barrel adjusters a few times, but it's a good idea to take it to the shop anyway for a check-up.

The shop actually assembles your bike from a box before you buy it, so they're responsible for making sure all the bolts are tight. They're also responsible for making sure none of the components are about to fail due to a manufacturing defect. You may be required to take your bike back to the shop after a certain period of time for the shop to continue to honor your warranty.

I generally never take my bikes to shops for service, but that's because I know how to fix nearly anything that breaks. If I were you, I'd find someone to teach you basic adjustments, and take the bike back only when it has major problems.

- Warren
 
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  • #67
So they will put it back or destretch it a cm or two? But wouldn't it stretch back out again after a months again? Check ups after the first year are usually half yearly minimum? And usually yearly? Although it may depend how much you ride.
 
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  • #68
They'll simply adjust the cable tension so that it's back in spec. The cables generally stretch significantly only when they're new.

Like I said, I wouldn't worry about any regular checkups -- you can fix 90% of bicycle mechanical problems yourself with very little effort. They're simple machines.

- Warren
 
  • #69
Warren, is there a trick to getting the crank out? I need to lube my crankshaft, but I haven't been able to figure out what to remove to get the assembly open. I have a 5 y/o Mongoose MTB.
 
  • #70
berkeman said:
Warren, is there a trick to getting the crank out? I need to lube my crankshaft

Dirty joke alert! :smile:

Edit: "Thats what she said!"
 
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  • #71
cyrusabdollahi said:
Dirty joke alert! :smile:

Oopsies! :blushing:
 
  • #72
Well, I assume you mean you need to get the bottom bracket out of the frame. The "cranks" are just the arms that attach to the bottom bracket. You typically need a tool to open the bottom bracket shell to get the bottom bracket itself out. These days, most bearings are actually sealed cartridges, so you may have no luck lubing it yourself. You might be better off just buying a new cartridge bearing.

I have no experience (at all) with mountain-bike components, so I cannot recommend a specific tool. Check Park Tool to see if they have the appropriate tools:

http://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=9

If it has Shimano components on it, they'll have a tool for it.

- Warren
 
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