A Road Bike Primer: Entry Level vs Non-Entry Bikes

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the characteristics and differences between entry-level and non-entry-level road bikes, with a focus on a specific model, the 2007 Diamondback Criterium. Participants explore various aspects such as bike components, frame construction, suitability for climbing, and necessary accessories for road biking.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Conceptual clarification

Main Points Raised

  • Some participants suggest that entry-level bikes differ primarily in frame construction and components, with higher-end bikes being lighter and more responsive.
  • Others argue that the major differences lie in components like shifters and brakes, with cheaper components wearing down more quickly.
  • There is a debate about the appropriateness of accessories like mud guards and lights on road bikes, with some asserting that they are not intended for such use.
  • Concerns are raised about the quality of the Diamondback Criterium, with some participants noting that its components are of lower quality compared to other brands.
  • Some participants emphasize the importance of bike fit and suggest trying multiple bikes before purchasing, especially for long-distance riding.
  • There is discussion about the impact of clothing choices on comfort during rides, particularly in cold weather.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing opinions on the quality and suitability of the Diamondback Criterium as an entry-level bike, with no consensus on whether it is a good choice. There are also varying views on the necessity and impact of accessories like mud guards and lights.

Contextual Notes

Some participants mention the importance of frame design and component quality, but there is no agreement on the best approach to selecting a bike or the necessity of specific accessories. The discussion reflects a range of experiences and preferences in road biking.

Who May Find This Useful

Individuals interested in purchasing their first road bike, those looking to understand the differences between bike models, and cyclists seeking advice on accessories and clothing for road biking may find this discussion relevant.

  • #61
I hit occasional little patches of stuff, including those obnoxious little thorn things. I try to keep an eye out, but sometimes get surprised.
 
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  • #62
Some of the advice about road bikes seems to apply only to racing bikes. Such as not being designed for cargo or inclement weather. Or so it seems to me, I'm far from expert. I have an older Miyata 1000 touring bike which I don't use much, but I certainly don't hesitate to add things like a light, odometer, water bottle etc. I rode it on wet cobblestones in Paris, with four full panniers and a small pack behind the seat, but I don't recommend that.

Where I live I find a touring bike less than ideal. It's light and easy to pedal but there are places where I might want to hit the gravel or hop onto the sidewalk to avoid traffic, so a mountain bike would be safer. I'm also an inexpert rider.
 
  • #63
At least in the US, the term "road bike" almost exclusively means "road racing bike." There are other kinds of bikes which have slick tires and are meant to be used on pavement -- like touring and cyclocross bikes -- but they are generally not called "road bikes."

- Warren
 
  • #64
So when the people riding the Tour de France ride a section on cobble stone, do they change their bikes? Or do they still use a road racing bike?

Is any D lock good? How are Tioga D locks?

http://www.bikes.com.au/c/124827/1/tioga.html

What does it take to break them?
 
  • #65
How often should I take the bike to a service?

They recommand taking a new bike to the first service after riding 200km. Why is that? They do often free servicing for a year. How often should I take it to be serviced after that?
 
  • #66
The biggest reason is because your shifter and brake cable will stretch a cm or two within the first couple of months of use. You can "fix" this yourself by turning your barrel adjusters a few times, but it's a good idea to take it to the shop anyway for a check-up.

The shop actually assembles your bike from a box before you buy it, so they're responsible for making sure all the bolts are tight. They're also responsible for making sure none of the components are about to fail due to a manufacturing defect. You may be required to take your bike back to the shop after a certain period of time for the shop to continue to honor your warranty.

I generally never take my bikes to shops for service, but that's because I know how to fix nearly anything that breaks. If I were you, I'd find someone to teach you basic adjustments, and take the bike back only when it has major problems.

- Warren
 
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  • #67
So they will put it back or destretch it a cm or two? But wouldn't it stretch back out again after a months again? Check ups after the first year are usually half yearly minimum? And usually yearly? Although it may depend how much you ride.
 
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  • #68
They'll simply adjust the cable tension so that it's back in spec. The cables generally stretch significantly only when they're new.

Like I said, I wouldn't worry about any regular checkups -- you can fix 90% of bicycle mechanical problems yourself with very little effort. They're simple machines.

- Warren
 
  • #69
Warren, is there a trick to getting the crank out? I need to lube my crankshaft, but I haven't been able to figure out what to remove to get the assembly open. I have a 5 y/o Mongoose MTB.
 
  • #70
berkeman said:
Warren, is there a trick to getting the crank out? I need to lube my crankshaft

Dirty joke alert! :smile:

Edit: "Thats what she said!"
 
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  • #71
cyrusabdollahi said:
Dirty joke alert! :smile:

Oopsies! :blushing:
 
  • #72
Well, I assume you mean you need to get the bottom bracket out of the frame. The "cranks" are just the arms that attach to the bottom bracket. You typically need a tool to open the bottom bracket shell to get the bottom bracket itself out. These days, most bearings are actually sealed cartridges, so you may have no luck lubing it yourself. You might be better off just buying a new cartridge bearing.

I have no experience (at all) with mountain-bike components, so I cannot recommend a specific tool. Check Park Tool to see if they have the appropriate tools:

http://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=9

If it has Shimano components on it, they'll have a tool for it.

- Warren
 
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