Alternative for Mineral Oil on Bread Boards

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around alternatives to mineral oil for preserving hardwood bread boards. Participants explore various options, share experiences, and discuss the properties of different oils suitable for this purpose.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Conceptual clarification

Main Points Raised

  • Some participants suggest that mineral oil is commonly available at drugstores and grocery stores, while others express surprise at its unavailability.
  • Alternative oils such as "Butcher Block Oil" and "salad bowl oil" are mentioned as potential substitutes for mineral oil.
  • There is a distinction made between mineral oil, which does not dry and requires periodic reapplication, and drying oils like walnut oil, which penetrate and bind to the wood over time.
  • Concerns are raised about the use of baby oil, which contains mineral oil but may also include other ingredients that are not suitable for food contact.
  • Some participants emphasize the importance of using food-grade mineral oil and caution against using oils that can become rancid.
  • One participant shares their experience of using a mixture of mineral oil and salt for cleaning and maintaining their board.
  • There are discussions about the finish and appearance of the boards after applying different oils, with some participants sharing images and expressing admiration for the results.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants generally agree on the availability of mineral oil and its suitability for bread boards, but there is disagreement regarding the use of baby oil and the potential implications of using it. The discussion remains unresolved on the best alternative oils and their properties.

Contextual Notes

Some participants mention the need for caution regarding the ingredients in baby oil and the potential for rancidity in certain oils, highlighting the importance of using food-grade products. There is also a lack of consensus on the best practices for oil application and maintenance of the boards.

Dav333
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I have made some bread boards out of hardwood & heard to preserve them you coat with Mineral oil. I can't find any locally & was hoping there is something else i can use?
 
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Dav333 said:
I have made some bread boards out of hardwood & heard to preserve them you coat with Mineral oil. I can't find any locally & was hoping there is something else i can use?
You can usually find it at the drugstore. Ask the Pharmacist.
 
Yes, drug stores carry food-grade mineral oil. The trim on our kitchen counters is raw cherry, and the surfaces are slate and limestone. We treat all those surfaces with food-grade mineral oil.
 
Dav333 said:
I have made some bread boards out of hardwood & heard to preserve them you coat with Mineral oil. I can't find any locally & was hoping there is something else i can use?

I agree with Evo- mineral oil is available at nearly every drugstore and grocery store in the US.
 
My local hardware store has "Butcher Block Oil" in the painting section. I've also seen it advertised as "salad bowl oil".
 
cool thanks for the replies
 
Mineral oil does not dry, it stays on the surface of the wood, so you have to reapply it periodically -as Turbo noted.

Walnut oil is a drying oil. It will penetrate and then react with oxygen in the air over time to become permanently bound to the wood. There are a lot of other edible drying oils - safflower oil, poppy seed oil...

See
http://www.sanders-studios.com/instruction/tutorials/historyanddefinitions/dryingoils.html
 
jim mcnamara said:
Mineral oil does not dry, it stays on the surface of the wood, so you have to reapply it periodically -as Turbo noted.

Walnut oil is a drying oil. It will penetrate and then react with oxygen in the air over time to become permanently bound to the wood. There are a lot of other edible drying oils - safflower oil, poppy seed oil...

See
http://www.sanders-studios.com/instruction/tutorials/historyanddefinitions/dryingoils.html

Must be careful that those oils do not become rancid, mineral oil needs applicaiton, but is never rancid. I sometimes enjoy curing a butcher's block, or seasoning cast iron. It's a nice ritual, in a way.
 
  • #10
Food-grade mineral oil is the stuff to use. It comes in at least a couple of different "weights". We normally use the heavy stuff, apply it with a cotton cloth, and wipe off the excess after letting it sit a bit. For the first application on a new cutting board, it might be a good idea to use the lighter formulation to get better penetration, then use the heavy stuff for follow-up.
 
  • #11
IcedEcliptic said:
Must be careful that those oils do not become rancid, mineral oil needs applicaiton, but is never rancid. I sometimes enjoy curing a butcher's block, or seasoning cast iron. It's a nice ritual, in a way.

yeah, don't use corn oil (rancid)
 
  • #12
You might also be able to find mineral oil in a cookware store, but it will be needlessly overpriced.
 
  • #13
Evo said:
You might also be able to find mineral oil in a cookware store, but it will be needlessly overpriced.

I would think you would prefer EVOO. ;)
 
  • #14
Found some, its also called baby oil.
 
  • #15
Dav333 said:
Found some, its also called baby oil.
Yes, that's correct. And it is also sometimes referred to as "light sweet crude oil." Which is the same stuff as "SAE 30," aka "Bar and Chain oil." Although it might be sold as "lamp oil" in your local craft store.

Just in case you didn't detect it...

NOOOOOOOOOOO!

Baby oil should not be used on a breadboard!
 
  • #16
Dav333 said:
Found some, its also called baby oil.
Oh dear, baby oil contains mineral oil, but I'm not aware of any baby oil that contains nothing but pure food grade mineral oil. Where do you live?
 
  • #17
Evo said:
Oh dear, baby oil contains mineral oil, but I'm not aware of any baby oil that contains nothing but pure food grade mineral oil. Where do you live?

I hear that LSC makes is being marketed by BP as an alternative to baby oil and food grade mineral oil... for otters. :)
 
  • #18
Evo said:
Oh dear, baby oil contains mineral oil, but I'm not aware of any baby oil that contains nothing but pure food grade mineral oil. Where do you live?
Most commercially-available baby oil contains fragrances, at a minimum. It's so easy to locate food-grade mineral oil, so why use something with extra ingredients?
 
  • #22
Yea we call it baby oil in Aus, the chemist didn't know what mineral oil was.

So i just assumed it was the same as MI. Guess its too late as I coated the board with it.
 
  • #23
Dav333 said:
Yea we call it baby oil in Aus, the chemist didn't know what mineral oil was.

So i just assumed it was the same as MI. Guess its too late as I coated the board with it.

The words are interchangeable, if the baby oil had nothing but mineral oil in it, unlikely as that is. If not, it may cause a smell, but it won't hurt the wood, and in time your next curing will erase the error. If you're worried, I suggest a vigorous scrub with mineral oil and salt, then another curing.
 
  • #24
IcedEcliptic said:
I hear that LSC makes is being marketed by BP as an alternative to baby oil and food grade mineral oil... for otters. :)

:-p...:cry:!
 
  • #27
Evo said:
Dav, go to a pharmacy and look in the laxative section.

I jump down in the thread and I wondered for a few seconds after reading this if the topic had changed
 
  • #28
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  • #29
Not sure what wood exactly, just found some Misc hardwood sitting on the shelf in my shed.

Very smooth with the grain. Finished sanding it with fine 800grit sand paper.
 
  • #30
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