There's some serious good news here: Thanks to the internet you don't have to go to a ridiculously expensive top-flight school to learn this stuff. Textbooks and lecturers' notes from very strong academic programs are available online; for example, Sean Carroll and Gerard t'Hooft have both placed first-rate general relativity textbooks on the web, and there are many more good online resources.
On the other hand, you do have to work at it. Plan on spending several years of the same sort of effort that you'd put into learning something else worthwhile, and resist the impulse to skip learning the math that's needed to deal with all of physics since Newton (who more than three hundred years ago invented calculus because he needed it to solve the open physics problems of his era). Nonetheless... A few years of concentrated effort will give what some of the smartest people who ever lived spent centuries developing... That's good news.