Drying or removal of water from turning blanks

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around methods for drying or removing water from wood turning blanks, exploring various techniques including the use of liquid dishwashing soap, cooking oil, and desiccants. Participants share their thoughts on the practicality and effectiveness of these methods, as well as alternative approaches for hobbyists.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Debate/contested
  • Technical explanation
  • Homework-related

Main Points Raised

  • One participant mentions an article suggesting that osmosis or reverse osmosis using liquid dishwashing soap can effectively remove water from wood.
  • Another participant expresses skepticism about the effectiveness of liquid soap due to its likely water content.
  • A participant questions whether the thickness of the soap could aid in water removal and proposes using cooking oil instead.
  • Alternative methods are suggested, including using a drying oven or desiccants, which are noted as more practical and less messy options.
  • Concerns are raised about how to remove soap or oil from the wood after drying, especially since the wood will be turned in a lathe.
  • A participant discusses the cost of kiln dryers and expresses interest in inexpensive methods for moisture removal.
  • Silica gel is identified as a reusable desiccant, with a participant providing a link to purchase it and discussing its effectiveness in moisture absorption.
  • There is a question about whether hobbyists typically use already seasoned wood or if they chop their own timber, with a participant noting the challenges of working with wet wood.
  • A participant shares their experience with the moisture content of common and exotic woods, indicating a need for effective moisture removal methods.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express a range of views on the effectiveness of using liquid soap and cooking oil for moisture removal, with some skepticism about these methods. There is no consensus on the best approach, and multiple competing views remain regarding practical solutions for drying wood.

Contextual Notes

Participants mention limitations related to the cost of equipment like kiln dryers and the challenges of working with wet versus dry wood. The discussion includes various assumptions about the properties of materials used for drying.

Who May Find This Useful

Hobbyists in woodworking, particularly those interested in wood turning and moisture removal techniques, may find this discussion relevant.

Jeprox
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Hi there,

I have read an article where osmosis/reverse osmosis could be used to effectively remove water within a piece of wood. What the author has done is submerging a piece of wood under a thick, liquid dishwashing soap. The said soap pulls the water out of the wood which makes it dry.

Hopefully someone could help, either debunking this or saying it is possible or true.

Thank you!

D
 
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Jeprox said:
thick, liquid dishwashing soap

Unless its formulation is completely water free (highly doubtful) there is no way it can work.
 
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Borek said:
Unless its formulation is completely water free (highly doubtful) there is no way it can work.
Hi sir,

Thanks for your input.

I also have that doubt in my mind. Since liquid soap must have water, it may not work.

But the question that lingers in my head is, since the consistency of liquid soap is thicker compared to water, wouldn't that be a key factor in pulling out the water within the wood?

What about submerging it in oil, cooking oil, will it work?

Sir, thanks again for your input. Sorry for another set of questions. I am just trying to figure this out.

Thanks again.
D
 
Yeah, you might get rid of the water, but how do you get rid of the soap, or the cooking oil, or the ... ?

If you want to get rid of the water from a piece of wood, why not put it in a drying oven or similar device, on low heat? Or a big tub filled with dessicants? These seem to be more practical (and less messy).
 
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SteamKing said:
Yeah, you might get rid of the water, but how do you get rid of the soap, or the cooking oil, or the ... ?

If you want to get rid of the water from a piece of wood, why not put it in a drying oven or similar device, on low heat? Or a big tub filled with dessicants? These seem to be more practical (and less messy).
Hey steamking, thanks for the reply.

The liquid soap could be removed since the wood will be turned in a lathe. It will be submerged in its final shape ir form.

This also goes for oil. The wood will have an oil finish as a bonus, grains will be shown.

Kiln dryers or ovens are expensive, i am only a hobbyist, don't have the funds for that. Dont want to use the house oven for exotic woods.

For the dissecants, thanks for the idea. Those are the silican gels, right? So i will just place them in a container and cover with dissecants? Please advise. Nice idea.

Thanks!

D
 
Jeprox said:
Hey steamking, thanks for the reply.

The liquid soap could be removed since the wood will be turned in a lathe. It will be submerged in its final shape ir form.

This also goes for oil. The wood will have an oil finish as a bonus, grains will be shown.

Kiln dryers or ovens are expensive, i am only a hobbyist, don't have the funds for that. Dont want to use the house oven for exotic woods.

For the dissecants, thanks for the idea. Those are the silican gels, right? So i will just place them in a container and cover with dissecants? Please advise. Nice idea.

Thanks!

D
Yeah, silica gel is a dessicant. If you get the silica gel in raw form, the moisture it absorbs can be driven off by heating the gel, and the gel re-used I believe. At least the lab-grade stuff can be.

These re-usable SG crystals can be purchased from Walmart or other similar retailer:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/24547309?...42576952&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78881275112&veh=sem

I'm a little confused, though. If your hobby is wood craft, don't you use wood that's already been seasoned and dried? Or do you chop your own timber?
I would think that trying to work wet wood would be harder than working dried wood.
 
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SteamKing said:
Yeah, silica gel is a dessicant. If you get the silica gel in raw form, the moisture it absorbs can be driven off by heating the gel, and the gel re-used I believe. At least the lab-grade stuff can be.

These re-usable SG crystals can be purchased from Walmart or other similar retailer:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/24547309?...42576952&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78881275112&veh=sem

I'm a little confused, though. If your hobby is wood craft, don't you use wood that's already been seasoned and dried? Or do you chop your own timber?
I would think that trying to work wet wood would be harder than working dried wood.

Sir, thanks again. The link is very helpfull. I forgot about those flower drying crystals.

Yes, i am into the wood working hobby among others (i am also into reef aquarium, hhehhe). Common wood blanks or lumbers are mostly dry, ranging from 7 to 8% moisture. Exotic woods usually comes covered with wax because the of high moisture content, roughly 20 to 30% Every now and then, i use exotic woods for turning.
Aside from exotics, i am also using burls, maple or other north american species. They also have high moisture content when being sold.

I am just trying to figure out any relatively easy and inexpensive options in removing moisture. Any positive outcome or info that i will get from this query will definitely be shared in the wood turning community.

Thanks again for sharing.

D
 

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