Engineering Solutions for a Broken Chair

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers on repairing a broken wooden chair where the wooden pegs connecting the seat support to the back leg have snapped. The user initially plans to use 1/2 inch lag bolts for reattachment but faces challenges due to oversized holes. Suggestions include using grooved wooden dowels for a more aesthetically pleasing and potentially stronger repair, along with the option of reinforcing the joint with glue and nails. The consensus is that while lag bolts could work, dowels may provide a more reliable and visually acceptable solution.

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  • Understanding of basic woodworking techniques
  • Familiarity with using power tools for drilling and fastening
  • Knowledge of wood joint reinforcement methods
  • Experience with different types of fasteners, including lag bolts and dowels
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  • Research the properties and applications of grooved wooden dowels in furniture repair
  • Learn about the best practices for using lag bolts in woodworking
  • Explore various wood joint reinforcement techniques, including glue and nails
  • Investigate the use of power tools for efficient furniture repairs
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Woodworkers, furniture repair enthusiasts, and DIY home improvement practitioners looking to enhance their skills in repairing wooden furniture effectively.

Lancelot59
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I guess this goes under engineering, but if not then whoops.

I sat down hard on a wooden chair recently and heard a loud snap noise. I discovered that the wooden pegs that connected the right seat support to one of the back legs had snapped. So I pulled the chair apart and drilled out the remains of the pegs.

My idea being that I could just drill the holes in the back leg all the way through and put some long screws into re-attach the pieces. The problem is when I checked the diameter of the pegs to select a bit to remove them I measured the middle instead of the base, and they were made of a soft material that compressed to fit the hole in the support, so the holes are a little wide now.

I drilled them out with a 3/8 inch bit. I just went to the hardware store and the only thing they had that was big enough to work were 1/2 inch lag bolts. I would need to get some nice fat four inch long ones to do the job.

Using this plan I would widen the holes in the support/leg to be wide enough to accept the shaft of the bolt, and let the threads dig in on their own. Then after countersinking the holes in the back leg put everything back together.

Does this sound like a reasonable solution?
 
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Why not get some wood dowel unstead of metal bolts?

It doesn't matter if you use a bigger size dowel than the original, and you can drill right through the leg if you don't care what the repair looks like.

You want dowel that is grooved along its length (like a rifle barrel, but straight grooves not sprirals) so it can be compressed into a slightly undersized hole, and the grooves hold plenty of glue while it is being assembled.

If you think glue will not be strong enough on its own, you can put a small nail through the leg and the dowel at right angles to the dowel, to stop the joint pulling apart.
 
Lancelot59 said:
Using this plan I would widen the holes in the support/leg to be wide enough to accept the shaft of the bolt, and let the threads dig in on their own.
If the holes were large enough to let the threaded bolt through, it sounds like there'd be some gap and they might not grip. You might dip the bolt in white glue before putting it in.
 
AlephZero said:
Why not get some wood dowel unstead of metal bolts?

It doesn't matter if you use a bigger size dowel than the original, and you can drill right through the leg if you don't care what the repair looks like.

You want dowel that is grooved along its length (like a rifle barrel, but straight grooves not sprirals) so it can be compressed into a slightly undersized hole, and the grooves hold plenty of glue while it is being assembled.

If you think glue will not be strong enough on its own, you can put a small nail through the leg and the dowel at right angles to the dowel, to stop the joint pulling apart.
Well I do want it to look alright. I'm reluctant to use dowel, I'm concerned it will just break if I fall into the chair again.

DaveC426913 said:
If the holes were large enough to let the threaded bolt through, it sounds like there'd be some gap and they might not grip. You might dip the bolt in white glue before putting it in.
I meant to say that I would only provide clearance for the shaft. The threads would still be able to dig in.
 
Lancelot59 said:
I meant to say that I would only provide clearance for the shaft. The threads would still be able to dig in.
You may have a heckuva time screwing that bolt into wood.
 
DaveC426913 said:
You may have a heckuva time screwing that bolt into wood.

That's why we invented power tools? I didn't see any actual screws that were a half inch wide at the store, and I don't really think dowels are the best option, although I may just do that. I guess I could always sentence the wood to the scrap pile and make one from scratch, but I don't want to unless I need to.
 
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