Heat Inconel 718 Alloy With Bunsen Burner

[aali94]

This may be a ridiculous question but I wanted to find out whether it would be possible to heat a 10x10x5 mm sheet of inconel 718 alloy (weighs around 500 g) to 1000 degrees C using a bunsen burner. The burner I have in mind is the Integra Fireboy safety bunsen burner (link below). It has a max flame temperature of 1200 degrees C, and a nominal heat rate of 1.6 kW.

At 1000 degrees C, I have calculated the overall heat loss due to radiation to be around 3 kW. Can this be reduced with ceramic fibre insulation (k = 0.48 W/m/K), and using radiant barriers? I would really appreciate your views and any suggestions on methods of getting to a 1000 degrees C.

https://www.integra-biosciences.com/united-kingdom/en/flame-sterilization/fireboy

 

[sophiecentaur]

Hi and welcome to PF.
It strikes me that you need a Muffle Furnace design (do a Google Images search for an idea of whet they look like). They usually (these days) use electrical heating but the secret is to use lots of refractory insulation. It's quite possible but not a quick fix. Unless you are set on using the bunsen, you may find it better to use a blown charcoal heater (like a blacksmith's forge). 1200C from the flame may not be high enough. I have heated a steel bar to cherry red (750C) after extended heating in a barbecue with a blower but 1000C is more like light orange.
Basically, I think the "safety" bunsen name says it all - it's hard to use something like that for extreme heating. I am sure you will need a better solution. Just try to heat up the end of a piece of steel rod ( say 10mmX 5mm) and see how red you can get it. You will need a long rod or some fibre insulation or you will burn your hand before the rod glows much.
Btw, I think you must mean 100mm square, not 10mm. How important is an even temperature over the plate?
When I need something like this, I tend to look at eBay but that can involve a long wait or a long drive.

 

[hutchphd]

Hi and welcome to PF.
It strikes me that you need a Muffle Furnace design (do a Google Images search for an idea of whet they look like). They usually (these days) use electrical heating but the secret is to use lots of refractory insulation. It's quite possible but not a quick fix. Unless you are set on using the bunsen, you may find it better to use a blown charcoal heater (like a blacksmith's forge). 1200C from the flame may not be high enough. I have heated a steel bar to cherry red (750C) after extended heating in a barbecue with a blower but 1000C is more like light orange.
Basically, I think the "safety" bunsen name says it all - it's hard to use something like that for extreme heating. I am sure you will need a better solution. Just try to heat up the end of a piece of steel rod ( say 10mmX 5mm) and see how red you can get it. You will need a long rod or some fibre insulation or you will burn your hand before the rod glows much.
Btw, I think you must mean 100mm square, not 10mm. How important is an even temperature over the plate?
When I need something like this, I tend to look at eBay but that can involve a long wait or a long drive.

I've not done it but I think most pottery kilns will get you above 2000F...

 

[sophiecentaur]

I've not done it but I think most pottery kilns will get you above 2000F...

Pretty expensive for a one off experiment though. A couple of big propane torches would be better sources of heat than the safe bunsen.
It would be nice to know the budget that the OP has for the heating operation.

 

[hutchphd]

Pretty expensive for a one off experiment though. A couple of big propane torches would be better sources of heat than the safe bunsen.
It would be nice to know the budget that the OP has for the heating operation.

I guess I know too many old hippies...probably could borrow one! Would be nice and uniform.

 

[sophiecentaur]

The OP hasn't given us the context of the heating operation. The metal won't melt but it will cool down as soon as it's removed from the furnace.