Heat Inconel 718 Alloy With Bunsen Burner

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the feasibility of heating a 10x10x5 mm sheet of Inconel 718 alloy to 1000 degrees Celsius using a Bunsen burner, specifically the Integra Fireboy model. Participants explore various heating methods, insulation options, and the challenges associated with achieving the desired temperature.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Experimental/applied

Main Points Raised

  • The original poster (OP) questions whether a Bunsen burner can achieve 1000 degrees C, noting the heat loss due to radiation and inquiring about the effectiveness of ceramic fiber insulation and radiant barriers.
  • Some participants suggest that a muffle furnace design would be more appropriate for achieving high temperatures, emphasizing the importance of refractory insulation.
  • Others argue that a blown charcoal heater or propane torches might provide better heating solutions than the Bunsen burner, which may not reach sufficient temperatures for the task.
  • Concerns are raised about the safety and practicality of using a Bunsen burner for extreme heating, with suggestions to test heating a steel rod as a practical experiment.
  • There is a mention that pottery kilns could achieve higher temperatures, but they may be costly for a one-time use.
  • Some participants express curiosity about the OP's budget for the heating operation, indicating that cost may influence the choice of heating method.
  • A participant notes that the metal will cool down quickly once removed from the heat source, highlighting a potential challenge in maintaining the desired temperature.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants do not reach a consensus on the best method for heating the Inconel 718 alloy. Multiple competing views on suitable heating techniques and equipment remain, with no clear resolution on the feasibility of using the Bunsen burner for this purpose.

Contextual Notes

The discussion lacks specific details about the context of the heating operation, such as the importance of temperature uniformity and the exact dimensions of the alloy sheet, which may affect the feasibility of the proposed methods.

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This may be a ridiculous question but I wanted to find out whether it would be possible to heat a 10x10x5 mm sheet of inconel 718 alloy (weighs around 500 g) to 1000 degrees C using a bunsen burner. The burner I have in mind is the Integra Fireboy safety bunsen burner (link below). It has a max flame temperature of 1200 degrees C, and a nominal heat rate of 1.6 kW.

At 1000 degrees C, I have calculated the overall heat loss due to radiation to be around 3 kW. Can this be reduced with ceramic fibre insulation (k = 0.48 W/m/K), and using radiant barriers? I would really appreciate your views and any suggestions on methods of getting to a 1000 degrees C.

https://www.integra-biosciences.com/united-kingdom/en/flame-sterilization/fireboy
 
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Hi and welcome to PF.
It strikes me that you need a Muffle Furnace design (do a Google Images search for an idea of whet they look like). They usually (these days) use electrical heating but the secret is to use lots of refractory insulation. It's quite possible but not a quick fix. Unless you are set on using the bunsen, you may find it better to use a blown charcoal heater (like a blacksmith's forge). 1200C from the flame may not be high enough. I have heated a steel bar to cherry red (750C) after extended heating in a barbecue with a blower but 1000C is more like light orange.
Basically, I think the "safety" bunsen name says it all - it's hard to use something like that for extreme heating. I am sure you will need a better solution. Just try to heat up the end of a piece of steel rod ( say 10mmX 5mm) and see how red you can get it. You will need a long rod or some fibre insulation or you will burn your hand before the rod glows much.
Btw, I think you must mean 100mm square, not 10mm. How important is an even temperature over the plate?
When I need something like this, I tend to look at eBay but that can involve a long wait or a long drive.
 
sophiecentaur said:
Hi and welcome to PF.
It strikes me that you need a Muffle Furnace design (do a Google Images search for an idea of whet they look like). They usually (these days) use electrical heating but the secret is to use lots of refractory insulation. It's quite possible but not a quick fix. Unless you are set on using the bunsen, you may find it better to use a blown charcoal heater (like a blacksmith's forge). 1200C from the flame may not be high enough. I have heated a steel bar to cherry red (750C) after extended heating in a barbecue with a blower but 1000C is more like light orange.
Basically, I think the "safety" bunsen name says it all - it's hard to use something like that for extreme heating. I am sure you will need a better solution. Just try to heat up the end of a piece of steel rod ( say 10mmX 5mm) and see how red you can get it. You will need a long rod or some fibre insulation or you will burn your hand before the rod glows much.
Btw, I think you must mean 100mm square, not 10mm. How important is an even temperature over the plate?
When I need something like this, I tend to look at eBay but that can involve a long wait or a long drive.
I've not done it but I think most pottery kilns will get you above 2000F...
 
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hutchphd said:
I've not done it but I think most pottery kilns will get you above 2000F...
Pretty expensive for a one off experiment though. A couple of big propane torches would be better sources of heat than the safe bunsen.
It would be nice to know the budget that the OP has for the heating operation.
 
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sophiecentaur said:
Pretty expensive for a one off experiment though. A couple of big propane torches would be better sources of heat than the safe bunsen.
It would be nice to know the budget that the OP has for the heating operation.
I guess I know too many old hippies...probably could borrow one! Would be nice and uniform.
 
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The OP hasn't given us the context of the heating operation. The metal won't melt but it will cool down as soon as it's removed from the furnace.