When I started this thread I was hoping someone would respond "Hey, this device does exactly what you need". I'd prefer if there was a device that could be bought ready. The lack off such reply leads me to think this will end up being a DIY thing.
Powering with battery would make stuff a lot easier. So much easier that I see that a possible solution.
Powering with one panel.... Voc=38,1V; within the range of a buck converter. Even two panels will be within the range. I'm not sure if that is a good idea though - it will unbalance the strings as it will load one panel in one string. (Due to the panels location I can't really connect them in parallel before series.) However the load is microscopic, this shouldn't be an issue, most of the time. The main concern is that it may fail to power the sensor on cloudy days. Say my 18 panels is able to generate 10w total on a cloudy day. That's 0.5w each. If the buck converter needs 0.5w to power the sensor, pulled from one panel only.... What will happen to the charging in such case? The tiny power given in cloudy days is actually what makes us have light and water pump in the fall/winter.
I'm not a fan of that solution, but I do see it's advantage. If going that route, at least a battery backup is needed, and a low volt cut off in front of the buck converter.
Isc = 9ish A.
Voltage range from 0 to 352 is the currently needed. Later upgrades to the solararray may increase this range. Everything else on the solar side is rated for at least 500V, so I'd prefer if the voltage sensor can go to 500V as well. Accuracy doesn't need to be much. What is important is to sense major changes. If the sensor say 150V when the actual voltage is 200V, that's OK. If the sensor say voltage dropped 5V between two readings, when it actually dropped 10V, that's OK as well. But if the sensor say it dropped 5V, when it didn't change, that will be an issue. What I'm trying to say is that the values is not important, but the consistency is important. I guess the term noise level could be used here.
When reading datasheets, I've been aiming for 1V accuracy. If a device shows up that solves this challenge with a downside of accuracy being 5V, I would go for it. If 10v.... maybe not.
There are some critical voltage ranges at [48V..60V] and [105V..140V] where I'd like accuracy near 1V. Outside these ranges accuracy doesn't matter. "<48V", "between 60 and 105" and ">140" could be good enough outside the critical ranges.
Current measuring is in a range that can be solved using a hall sensor. That is simple. I've been wondering if I could just drop voltage sensing, stay with current sensing, do some guess work about the voltage based on current sensing both the solar circuit, battery circuit and inverter output current, but I ended up with the conclusion that this will take too long. When the solar voltage drop occur that needs my logic to switch off a high power device, the current in battery circuit will rush towards the inverter, which should trigger my logic to disable the 220V relay for the device, but at this point the BMS logic will also sense issues and disconnect the battery. I doubt I can make any logic that responds faster than the BMS, when sensing on the same line. I do need this thing to make decisions based on the solar circuit only. Due to the MPPT logic, there is no way I could estimate the voltage based on current measurements only.
I do lean towards the circuit posted in
#18. (Replacing large resistors with chain of smaller ones.) It's ugly, but if the resistors are large enough it shouldn't cause problems. (I can leave my voltmeter there without making trouble.) It's advantage is that it does not require any power supply on the solar side.
The solar lines are not completely floating. One or the other seems to be fixed relative to battery negative in intervals depending on the voltage intervals between them.
Solar voltage < battery voltage: solar negative = -0ish V, positive = [0..battery voltage]
battery voltage < solar voltage < 138V: solar negative = [-0.. -88V], positive = battery voltage
138V < solar voltage < 140V: solar negative = [-138.. -140V] (it jumps from -88V), positive = 0
140V < solar voltage < 352V: solar negative = -40V, positive [0..312V]