I ask for your help understanding the limits of my wires

In summary: There is a great discussion on the effects of temperature on current ratings at the following link:In summary, there is no significant difference in maximum amps when voltage drops below 230V.
  • #1
HomeExperiement
55
5
Hi!

I have wires that have printed 600V 16 AWG on it. I found this table: http://www.basicsofelectricalengineering.com/2017/07/basics-of-wire-gauge-and-awg-system.html . As I understood then long wires can be used to transmit 3.7 amps and short ones 22 amps? Also does it depend on voltages? Like if I have 230 Volts instead of 600 will the maximum amps still be 22 or will it go up when volts go down?

In my case I have short cable (20 cm at most). So that means that I can hook it electrical appliance that takes 230V*22A = 5060W of power?

Just asking to know if I understood it correctly or not.
 
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  • #2
You read correctly. But here there is a lot of comment on the huge difference between 'chassis' and 'transmission' admittable current. And a reference to a 'better' table - they quote 15 A, which seems more sensible to me.

For 5 kW I'd recommend a thicker wire, even for a short connection.
 
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  • #3
BvU said:
I'd recommend a thicker wire,
Ditto. They might as well go with 12 AWG in my opinion.
 
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  • #4
HomeExperiement said:
As I understood then long wires can be used to transmit 3.7 amps and short ones 22 amps?
Tthe 3.7A rating for 'long' wires is to limit the voltage drop along the wire. Since the total wire resistance increase with length, a given current will cause a larger voltage drop in a long wire than a short one. For these cases, often the current rating is set for no more than a 5% voltage drop at the far end.

For 'short' wire runs the current rating is based on the maximum allowed temperature of the insulation, and whether the wire is out in the open, in a conduit, or in a multi-conductor cable. (Well, it also depends on the surrounding temperature, you don't want the wire hot enough that the wire itself oxidizes or corrodes due to the high temperature. :eek::)

HomeExperiement said:
Also does it depend on voltages? Like if I have 230 Volts instead of 600 will the maximum amps still be 22 or will it go up when volts go down?
No. The voltage rating depends only on the insulation.

Cheers,
Tom
 
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  • #5
It had 120C written for temperature. Asked this because on my lamp I have 28W bulb limit and then the same manufacturer sells more expensive lamp that looks the same outside that has 85W limit. Since they visually look both same (same materials, etc) then the argument that other deals with the heat better somehow is ruled out. And that's why I looked what's inside to figure out of 36W LED or 40W LED is also ok with it. I personally find it interesting that lamp that is rated for 28W has such wires in it. Is there any logical reason behind it (like running it for long time needs some extra durability maybe?) or is it just that the factory took what was the cheapest to get?
 
  • #6
What wires inside? Can you post pictures?

Use the UPLOAD button too post them.
HomeExperiement said:
It had 120C written for temperature. Asked this because on my lamp I have 28W bulb limit and then the same manufacturer sells more expensive lamp that looks the same outside that has 85W limit. Since they visually look both same (same materials, etc) then the argument that other deals with the heat better somehow is ruled out. And that's why I looked what's inside to figure out of 36W LED or 40W LED is also ok with it. I personally find it interesting that lamp that is rated for 28W has such wires in it. Is there any logical reason behind it (like running it for long time needs some extra durability maybe?) or is it just that the factory took what was the cheapest to get?
 
  • #7
Already put it together again. It was bit time consuming to open it so I wouldn't do it unless needed. The text was small and hard to read so photos wouldn't have much value.
 
  • #8
Tom.G said:
Tthe 3.7A rating for 'long' wires is to limit the voltage drop along the wire.
Power dissipated in the cable and temperature reached is also relevant at times. The current ratings are based on where the cable actually runs (in free air or under roof insulation etc. ). We have all seen the figures on mains extension reels for permissible current when wound and when unwound.
 

What are the limits of wires?

The limits of wires refer to the maximum amount of current that can flow through a wire without causing damage or overheating. This is determined by the wire's gauge, material, length, and the amount of current it is expected to carry.

How do I determine the limits of my wires?

The limits of wires can be determined by consulting a wire gauge chart or by using an online wire gauge calculator. These tools take into account the wire's gauge, material, length, and the amount of current it is expected to carry to determine its limits.

What happens if I exceed the limits of my wires?

If you exceed the limits of your wires, it can result in overheating, melting, or even fire. This can cause damage to your equipment and pose a safety hazard. It is important to always stay within the limits of your wires to ensure safe and efficient operation.

Can I increase the limits of my wires?

Yes, the limits of wires can be increased by using a thicker gauge wire or a wire with a higher current rating. However, it is important to consult a wire gauge chart or calculator to ensure that the increased limits are still within the capabilities of your equipment.

How do I know if I am using the correct wires for my project?

To ensure that you are using the correct wires for your project, you should consult a wire gauge chart or calculator to determine the appropriate gauge, material, and current rating for your specific application. It is also important to follow all safety guidelines and regulations when selecting and using wires.

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