There is something (actually, quite a few things) that I don't understand about the business of operators being self-adjoint. In curved space (consider just two-dimensions, for simplicity), what I would think would be the position space representation of the inner product of two wave functions \psi and \phi is:
\langle \psi | \phi \rangle = \int \psi^* \phi \sqrt{g} dx dy
where g is the determinant of the metric tensor. In this case, we have, with p_x = -i \hbar \partial_x,
\langle p_x \psi | \phi \rangle = \langle \psi | {P}_x \phi \rangle + ST
where {P}_x is the operator defined by {P}_x f = -i \hbar \frac{1}{\sqrt{g}} \partial_x (\sqrt{g} f) = (p_x - i \hbar \frac{1}{\sqrt{g}} \partial_x \sqrt{g}) f, and where ST is the "surface term": \int ({P}_x (D_x (\psi^* \phi))) \sqrt{g} dx dy
So p_x is only symmetric if ST = 0 and g is constant.
(Note: An identity that can be used is that: \frac{1}{\sqrt g} \partial_x \sqrt{g} = \Gamma^i_{i x}, where \Gamma is the connection coefficients (implicit summation over the dummy index i) So the operator P_x can actually be written in the form: P_x f = (p_x - i \hbar \Gamma^i_{i x}) f, which seems like sort of a covariant derivative, except that since f is a scalar, there's no difference between partial derivatives and covariant derivatives.)
So if an operator being symmetric is a necessary (but maybe not sufficient) condition for being an observable, then the usual momentum operator isn't an observable in curved space. What does that mean?