There is something (actually, quite a few things) that I don't understand about the business of operators being self-adjoint. In curved space (consider just two-dimensions, for simplicity), what I would think would be the position space representation of the inner product of two wave functions [itex]\psi[/itex] and [itex]\phi[/itex] is:
[itex]\langle \psi | \phi \rangle = \int \psi^* \phi \sqrt{g} dx dy[/itex]
where [itex]g[/itex] is the determinant of the metric tensor. In this case, we have, with [itex]p_x = -i \hbar \partial_x[/itex],
[itex]\langle p_x \psi | \phi \rangle = \langle \psi | {P}_x \phi \rangle + ST[/itex]
where [itex]{P}_x[/itex] is the operator defined by [itex]{P}_x f = -i \hbar \frac{1}{\sqrt{g}} \partial_x (\sqrt{g} f) = (p_x - i \hbar \frac{1}{\sqrt{g}} \partial_x \sqrt{g}) f[/itex], and where [itex]ST[/itex] is the "surface term": [itex]\int ({P}_x (D_x (\psi^* \phi))) \sqrt{g} dx dy[/itex]
So [itex]p_x[/itex] is only symmetric if [itex]ST = 0[/itex] and [itex]g[/itex] is constant.
(Note: An identity that can be used is that: [itex]\frac{1}{\sqrt g} \partial_x \sqrt{g} = \Gamma^i_{i x}[/itex], where [itex]\Gamma[/itex] is the connection coefficients (implicit summation over the dummy index [itex]i[/itex]) So the operator [itex]P_x[/itex] can actually be written in the form: [itex]P_x f = (p_x - i \hbar \Gamma^i_{i x}) f[/itex], which seems like sort of a covariant derivative, except that since [itex]f[/itex] is a scalar, there's no difference between partial derivatives and covariant derivatives.)
So if an operator being symmetric is a necessary (but maybe not sufficient) condition for being an observable, then the usual momentum operator isn't an observable in curved space. What does that mean?