What Are Some Tips for Successful Gardening?

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Gardening is a cherished activity for many participants, with roots tracing back to childhood experiences and family traditions. Organic gardening methods are favored, emphasizing the use of natural techniques over chemicals. Current gardening efforts include cultivating perennials like blueberries and raspberries, alongside plans for vegetable and herb gardens. Participants express a desire for more space to garden, reflecting on the challenges of apartment living and the joy of nurturing plants. The discussion highlights cultural differences in gardening practices, particularly contrasting American and Spanish lifestyles regarding home and garden ownership.
  • #751
I would love to have a little greenhouse and attached potting shed, but the climate here is not really conducive. My chili-head neighbor started some habaneros in February, but had to do that in his house, because his greenhouse was still buried in snow. My option for seedlings is to patronize greenhouses that can afford to use space-heaters for a few months until planting season in late May.

Today, I found a deal on some nitrogen-rich fertilizer and dosed the garden space with that. I used a rapitest multiple nutrient test kit on the garden and found out that the pH is fine, the phosphorus level is fine, and the potash level is fine. I just needed more nitrogen, and luckily I found some "lawn greening" fertilizer that was really rich in urea-based nitrogen for cheap. I spread one bag of it with a Scott's hand-held broadcast spreader, and I have another bag in reserve.
 
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  • #752
Here's my greenhouse right after it was built.

greenhouse3za.jpg
 
  • #753
Looks good Evo, great potential. Do you still have it?

Turbo, don't you have an option to have a greenhouse directly attached to the house, it would accumulate less snow and would use part of the heat that dissipates from the house.
 
  • #754
Evo said:
Here's my greenhouse right after it was built.

Very cool... er... hot! Evo.
 
  • #755
turbo-1 said:
I would love to have a little greenhouse and attached potting shed, but the climate here is not really conducive. My chili-head neighbor started some habaneros in February, but had to do that in his house, because his greenhouse was still buried in snow. My option for seedlings is to patronize greenhouses that can afford to use space-heaters for a few months until planting season in late May.

Or invade the mud room, what what?

Today, I found a deal on some nitrogen-rich fertilizer and dosed the garden space with that. I used a rapitest multiple nutrient test kit on the garden and found out that the pH is fine, the phosphorus level is fine, and the potash level is fine. I just needed more nitrogen, and luckily I found some "lawn greening" fertilizer that was really rich in urea-based nitrogen for cheap. I spread one bag of it with a Scott's hand-held broadcast spreader, and I have another bag in reserve.

I've found my compost to be the best soil going. The problem is to collect enough of it over the fall and winter plus the left overs from years before to spread over a 600 sq ft. area where the veggies and and sunflowers etc... grow. The other option is leaving the compost where it is and growing mammoth pumpkins in and around it and purchasing soil for the rest of the working garden.

What do you think about turning weeds into the soil rather than removing them? They end up adding nitrogen etc... The worry is that they will seed there and grow even worse but if they're turned in before going to seed that isn't a problem.
 
  • #756
yeah---really nice. I don't know how many people want (or, at least, talk about wanting) one that I know, but a lot.

I can't tell--it wasn't heated, was it?
 
  • #757
My garden?

Just a bunch of weeds. :smile:
 
  • #758
Let it grow approach, welcome to the club :smile:
 
  • #759
baywax, I compost all weeds that have not gone to seed, plus all garden waste, vegetable peelings, leaves, etc. My garden is over 1500 sq ft, though, so there's never enough compost to go around. I used all of last year's compost to fertilize my garlic bed, and the garlic appears to be doing real well.
 
  • #760
turbo-1 said:
baywax, I compost all weeds that have not gone to seed, plus all garden waste, vegetable peelings, leaves, etc. My garden is over 1500 sq ft, though, so there's never enough compost to go around. I used all of last year's compost to fertilize my garlic bed, and the garlic appears to be doing real well.

Excellent news Turbo. I think I asked this before but what type of garlic?

Here's my promised pumpkin photos plus the barn where some potting was done... and tractor parking.

The pumpkin with the shovel (200 lbs) is in front of the compost box that nurtured its growth. This was supplemented by the fact that I learned how you have to pinch all the flowers of the plant once you have gambled on one of the first pumpkins to develop. The rest of the flowers get pinched off to redirect energy to the selected one or two promising pumpkins.

The next photo of a pumpkin is one that was in the garden, (with less compost) and hadn't had its leaves pinched or most of the other flowers tended to. It still made it to 50 pounds.

The barn is the jewel of this property. This photo shows it in late Oct. however in summer it is covered in red and seedless green grapes. The concords were further south of there, o which there were so many, some were packed in grape leaves and sold at market.

Thanks! (edit) eh?
 

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  • #761
I have 1/3 of the bed in German garlic and 2/3 in Russian garlic. I had equal numbers of bulbs of each, given to me by my neighbor, but German garlic generally only develops 4 large cloves/bulb while the cloves in the Russian garlic are smaller and more numerous. Since German garlic only propagates 4:1, if I want to double my crop next year, I'll have to reserve a lot of the German for planting. That will be tough, because it is wonderful stuff. Those big cloves are great for baking. This shot was from a few weeks ago. The garlic greens are about a foot over the straw mulch now.

robingarlic.jpg
 
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  • #762
turbo-1 said:
I have 1/3 of the bed in German garlic and 2/3 in Russian garlic. I had equal numbers of bulbs of each, given to me by my neighbor, but German garlic generally only develops 4 large cloves/bulb while the cloves in the Russian garlic are smaller and more numerous. Since German garlic only propagates 4:1, if I want to double my crop next year, I'll have to reserve a lot of the German for planting. That will be tough, because it is wonderful stuff. Those big cloves are great for baking. This shot was from a few weeks ago. The garlic greens are about a foot over the straw mulch now.

I guess the straw is a hedge against a late freeze? The garlic sounds scrumptious. Its great for keeping vampires, bats, wolves and women at bay all in one breath.

edit... it must be nice to have your attachments approved automatically.
 
  • #763
Actually, the mulch is for winter protection. You plant garlic late in the year and mulch the beds. I planted mine in December after the ground was frozen and had to punch the holes with a heavy iron digging/pry bar and fill them in with compost after placing the cloves. It worked out well. I appear to have gotten 100% sprouting out of the planting. In the summer, the tops throw off a central shoot that starts to curl. When the shoots curl and the flowers are still not starting to develop, you cut off the shoots and cook with them. Mince them and include them in stir-fry dishes, casseroles, soups, or whatever. They are very tasty. Then after the greens start turning brown and drying, it's time to harvest the garlic and dry it. My neighbor's garage/woodworking shop smells heavenly when the garlic is drying/curing and I'm planning on using my little detached garage as a drying room.

Regarding the attachments - I honestly don't know how that works, but it is nice to be able to post an image and have it show up in the refreshed post.
 
  • #764
By the way, baywax, that looks like a gorgeous piece of property. Nice gourd-growing, too.
 
  • #765
turbo-1 said:
Actually, the mulch is for winter protection. You plant garlic late in the year and mulch the beds. I planted mine in December after the ground was frozen and had to punch the holes with a heavy iron digging/pry bar and fill them in with compost after placing the cloves. It worked out well. I appear to have gotten 100% sprouting out of the planting. In the summer, the tops throw off a central shoot that starts to curl. When the shoots curl and the flowers are still not starting to develop, you cut off the shoots and cook with them. Mince them and include them in stir-fry dishes, casseroles, soups, or whatever. They are very tasty. Then after the greens start turning brown and drying, it's time to harvest the garlic and dry it. My neighbor's garage/woodworking shop smells heavenly when the garlic is drying/curing and I'm planning on using my little detached garage as a drying room.

Regarding the attachments - I honestly don't know how that works, but it is nice to be able to post an image and have it show up in the refreshed post.

Wow... garlic shoots in the stir-fry...agh... sounds really too good man... are you sure you're not Chinese?

A drying room is a great idea. If you have some fruit trees dry some apples or pears and stuff and any kids will gladly eat them like they're bad for you. When its actually a great way to get scads of fruit in the gullet.

As for the property, it is to die for and a dream and nirvana all at the same time. Its the neighbours you have to factor into the equation for sure. Next move I'm doing about 2 years research on the area and the cliques involved etc... this area is pure orchardists and farmers... their "deliverance" of hospitality is nothing like what one would expect from social animals.

Thank you mind you. The hill in the distance is a great hiking spot. The history around there is deep. The archaeology is deeper and the fishing will blow your mind. The vineyards are abundant and rivaling Napa Valley... check out the Okanagan Valley next time you're googling.
 
  • #766
I hear you about the neighbors. I didn't scope mine out very well before buying this little place, but I lucked out. I have a neighbor with a nice shooting range with a shooting bench and I can use that any time. I have another neighbor who is heavily into organic gardening and he is the one who started me out with these varieties of garlic, and in return, I have been keeping him supplied with hot salsas and chili relishes, including some habanero relish that is almost all chili peppers with garlic, dill, other herbs, and sugars and vinegar. He gave me an old set of bent-up iron boat racks that he salvaged from the landfill, and another neighbor helped me cut and re-weld them to fit my truck. I helped both of them saw logs into boards with the gardener's Wood-miser sawmill, and the gardener has given me free access to his wood-shop with planer, jointer, table saw, chop saw, etc, etc. It's a pretty nice little neighborhood. My wife gets discount coupons from her company (New Balance Athletic Shoe) several times a year and we pass them out to the neighbors so that they can enjoy her employee's 40% discount at the factory outlet store. When I moved in here, I didn't realize that the tree-line on the Western edge of my property is loaded with nice Concord grapes - they are a bonus!
 
  • #767
turbo-1 said:
I hear you about the neighbors. I didn't scope mine out very well before buying this little place, but I lucked out. I have a neighbor with a nice shooting range with a shooting bench and I can use that any time. I have another neighbor who is heavily into organic gardening and he is the one who started me out with these varieties of garlic, and in return, I have been keeping him supplied with hot salsas and chili relishes, including some habanero relish that is almost all chili peppers with garlic, dill, other herbs, and sugars and vinegar. He gave me an old set of bent-up iron boat racks that he salvaged from the landfill, and another neighbor helped me cut and re-weld them to fit my truck. I helped both of them saw logs into boards with the gardener's Wood-miser sawmill, and the gardener has given me free access to his wood-shop with planer, jointer, table saw, chop saw, etc, etc. It's a pretty nice little neighborhood. My wife gets discount coupons from her company (New Balance Athletic Shoe) several times a year and we pass them out to the neighbors so that they can enjoy her employee's 40% discount at the factory outlet store. When I moved in here, I didn't realize that the tree-line on the Western edge of my property is loaded with nice Concord grapes - they are a bonus!

I can see all my old neighbours feeding the hogs in their white shiney New-Balance tennys... not!

Thanks Turbo... I am so up for a beer its not funny.. cheers!
 
  • #768
My first crop of radishes failed! I have NEVER had radishes fail. These were Burpee Scarlett Globe. They produced nothing but matchstick thin roots. Supposedly they mature in 22 days. It's been 90 days and they never formed. I am going to have to pull them up and throw them out.

Anyone have any idea why this would have happened? I've grown radishes for years.
 
  • #769
Well, since you know how to handle them, and having never seen a failed radish crop myself too, it's likely to be something awkward, like a fungus infection perhaps?

http://agron.scijournals.org/cgi/content/full/93/1/60
 
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  • #770
Evo said:
My first crop of radishes failed! I have NEVER had radishes fail. These were Burpee Scarlett Globe. They produced nothing but matchstick thin roots. Supposedly they mature in 22 days. It's been 90 days and they never formed. I am going to have to pull them up and throw them out.

Anyone have any idea why this would have happened? I've grown radishes for years.


having even a little too much fertilizer can burn the roots--

and if they get dry for even a day when young will kill them too
 
  • #771
balcony.jpg


On nice mornings like this one was, I sit out here (second floor balcony on the front of the house)

looking down at the front yard


front-yard.jpg


front-yard2.jpg


then I look over at the neighbor's:

next.jpg


(I've got a kilobyte camera, not a megabyte one)
 
  • #772
Evo, what did you feed them with? Too much nitrogen can encourage production of leaves in some vegetables while inhibiting fruiting. I have to be careful with my chili peppers for just that reason. It's easy to get thick bushy plants with low chili yield.
 
  • #773
Andre said:
Well, since you know how to handle them, and having never seen a failed radish crop myself too, it's likely to be something awkward, like a fungus infection perhaps?

http://agron.scijournals.org/cgi/content/full/93/1/60

rewebster said:
having even a little too much fertilizer can burn the roots--

and if they get dry for even a day when young will kill them too

turbo-1 said:
Evo, what did you feed them with? Too much nitrogen can encourage production of leaves in some vegetables while inhibiting fruiting. I have to be careful with my chili peppers for just that reason. It's easy to get thick bushy plants with low chili yield.
They are extremely healthy, they just didn't bulb. This is the only one that bulbed and it's a third of the size it should be. :frown: I used a low nitrogen fertilizer. They might have been too crowded according to this. Ok, I was trying to get more in less space.

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/vegetables/radish.html

http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/8881/camerapictures048ub0.jpg
 
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  • #774
rewebster said:
balcony.jpg


On nice mornings like this one was, I sit out here (second floor balcony on the front of the house)

looking down at the front yard


front-yard.jpg


front-yard2.jpg


then I look over at the neighbor's:

next.jpg


(I've got a kilobyte camera, not a megabyte one)
Those are beautiful rewebster, well, except your neighbor's yard. :biggrin:
 
  • #775
Evo said:
They are extremely healthy, they just didn't bulb. This is the only one that bulbed and it's a third of the size it should be. :frown: I used a low nitrogen fertilizer. They might have been too crowded according to this. Ok, I was trying to get more in less space.

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/vegetables/radish.html

http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/8881/camerapictures048ub0.jpg
[/URL]

'failed' , to me, means 'died' usually-


-it looks like too much nitrogen, or they are just 'not ripe' yet


_______

thanks---I like the "tropical" /southern 'feel' of it ---"lush"
 
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  • #776
rewebster said:
'failed' , to me, means 'died' usually-


-it looks like too much nitrogen, or they are just 'not ripe' yet
That entire radish with leaves is only a few inches tall.
 
  • #777
Evo, its likely what you think it is... over crowding. You see the same result when you have too many carrots together in one spot. The carrots are like toothpicks.
 
  • #778
Evo said:
That entire radish with leaves is only a few inches tall.

From the 'dirt' that's still on the roots, it looks like potting soil--and potting soil usually has nutrients for growth-----leaf growth usually. If you let them grow another week or so, they may produce a bigger 'radish'

____________________

The other thing is that if they're not in full sun, and the potting soil is used, they do have a tendency to grow more 'spindly'
 
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  • #779
rewebster said:
From the 'dirt' that's still on the roots, it looks like potting soil--and potting soil usually has nutrients for growth-----leaf growth usually. If you let them grow another week or so, they may produce a bigger 'radish'

____________________

The other thing is that if they're not in full sun, and the potting soil is used, they do have a tendency to grow more 'spindly'
Since everything is in a container on my patio, yes, it's potting soil, but this doesn't have fertilizer added.

Radishes don't ripen, if you let them grow too long they just become woody.

Oooh, I forgot to mention that my oldest cucumber plant has been flowering for several days. They always have the male blooms first, and in a couple of days the first female will bloom, I can see it's tiny little cucumber. Why is it that by the time the first female blooms, the males stop flowering and you always lose that first one? I would have had several other cucumber plants around to fertilize them, but the squirrels sat on them.
 
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  • #780
Evo said:
Since everything is in a container on my patio, yes, it's potting soil, but this doesn't have fertilizer added.

Radishes don't ripen, if you let them grow too long they just become woody.

Oooh, I forgot to mention that my oldest cucumber plant has been flowering for several days. They always have the male blooms first, and in a couple of days the first female will bloom, I can see it's tiny little cucumber. Why is it that by the time the first female blooms, the males stop flowering and you always lose that first one? I would have had several other cucumber plants around to fertilize them, but the squirrels sat on them.


that's just the way males are
 
  • #781
rewebster said:
that's just the way males are
:smile:
 
  • #782
Besides crowding, from the hairy roots, it looks like either too much fertilizer or too much organic material. I once read a warning that carrots and parsnip (basically any root crop) should not be grown in rich organic material, but preferably in something like a sandy soil away from organic material otherwise they would produce fine (hairy) roots rather than simply grow the main central root. The watering was supposed to be done in a trench with the root vegetables in mounds.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0435.html
Proper soil preparation is very important in achieving success with the root crops. They grow best in a deep, loose soil that retains moisture yet is well-drained. Root crops do not grow well in very acid soils. Always remember to take a soil sample for pH and nutrient analysis and apply fertilizer and/or lime appropriately. Nitrogen recommendations for beets, carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas are about ¾ to 1 cup of urea/100 sq. ft. Apply half during seed bed preparation and sidedress the other half in mid-season. For radishes and turnips, nitrogen recommendations are about ½ cup urea/100 sq. ft. to be broadcast and incorporated before planting. P and K application should be applied according to soil test recommendations. The optimum pH range is between 6 and 6.5. Liming will raise the pH of acid soils. You can improve soil conditions by adding well-rotted manure or compost. Do not use fresh manure as it can stimulate branching of the roots, . . .
This last line makes me think the radishes got something akin to too much fresh manure. They seem to have put a lot of energy into growing roots rather than a bulb.



I visited a horse ranch this morning to get some 'free' manure. They also have several cubic yards of top soil available for the taking. So this summer, I'll be making lots of trips to ranch.
 
  • #783
Sadly, here is the entire yield from my radish crop (it's the little speck next to the red onion). I do remember my first radish attempt was in a long wooden planter and they were incredible. I wish I remembered what kind of dirt I used.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/130/camerapictures050qi2.jpg
 
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  • #784
Astronuc said:
I visited a horse ranch this morning to get some 'free' manure. They also have several cubic yards of top soil available for the taking. So this summer, I'll be making lots of trips to ranch.
I hope the manure was old and well-rotted. Horses don't have multiple stomachs like cows and they don't chew their food thoroughly, so horse manure can have LOTS of weeds. Voice of Experience, here! After my father-in-law had his legs amputated due to side-effects of diabetes, he still wanted to garden, so he ordered seeds and fertilizer and I supplied all the labor. And what a LOT of labor that was! The guy he ordered manure from brought horse manure, not the promised cow manure, and I was fighting wild mustard, pig-weed, goose-foot, and dozens of other noxious weeds all summer.
 
  • #785
Evo said:
Sadly, here is the entire yield from my radish crop (it's the little speck next to the red onion). I do remember my first radish attempt was in a long wooden planter and they were incredible. I wish I remembered what kind of dirt I used.
Evo, do you have a soil test kit? If there is a lot of peat in the potting mix the pH may be too low to allow nutrient-uptake. Radishes like sandy/loamy soils with a pH of around 7. Lime could help you get there if the pH is low. If your potting soil is rich and loamy, try adding sand and for sure, check the pH. Thin the radishes to 3" apart once the greens get up about 2" or so, and use the radish greens and roots in tossed salads.
 
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  • #786
Evo said:
Sadly, here is the entire yield from my radish crop (it's the little speck next to the red onion). I do remember my first radish attempt was in a long wooden planter and they were incredible. I wish I remembered what kind of dirt I used.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/130/camerapictures050qi2.jpg
[/URL]

use the same dirt as you grew the onion in
 
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  • #787
This year I gave it a shot... Planted some legal herbs in my little garden, but having a tough time with germination rate of some of my hopefuls... and also the insects are wreaking havoc on a faster growing botanicals.. What a bummer. I thought about insecticides, but I was sort of waiting to see if these plants have enough fortitude to survive the attack of insects. Is there any natural way to spray to help my little green friends stay alive?

Some ppl have a green thumb, but unfortunately I am not one of them, but I am trying.

Regards,

-map
 
  • #788
turbo-1 said:
I hope the manure was old and well-rotted. Horses don't have multiple stomachs like cows and they don't chew their food thoroughly, so horse manure can have LOTS of weeds. Voice of Experience, here! After my father-in-law had his legs amputated due to side-effects of diabetes, he still wanted to garden, so he ordered seeds and fertilizer and I supplied all the labor. And what a LOT of labor that was! The guy he ordered manure from brought horse manure, not the promised cow manure, and I was fighting wild mustard, pig-weed, goose-foot, and dozens of other noxious weeds all summer.
it seems turbo is correct
Horses only digest about 1/4 of all the grass and grains they consume. Therefore horse manure is a very weedy manure.

On the other hand, cows have 4 stomachs. So their manure is more digested, and has less weed seeds in it.

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/organic/2003082510028156.html

turbo-1 said:
Evo, do you have a soil test kit? If there is a lot of peat in the potting mix the pH may be too low to allow nutrient-uptake. Radishes like sandy/loamy soils with a pH of around 7. Lime could help you get there if the pH is low. If your potting soil is rich and loamy, try adding sand and for sure, check the pH. Thin the radishes to 3" apart once the greens get up about 2" or so, and use the radish greens and toots in tossed salads.
I'm thinking the soil was perhaps too acid. :frown:

rewebster said:
use the same dirt as you grew the onion in
I bought the onion at the grocery store, which is how I will be getting my radishes until this fall. The temperature is going to be too hot for radishes now.
 
  • #789
Evo said:
it seems turbo is correct

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/organic/2003082510028156.html

I'm thinking the soil was perhaps too acid. :frown:

I bought the onion at the grocery store, which is how I will be getting my radishes until this fall. The temperature is going to be too hot for radishes now.

try it anyway----you never know how they will turn out---you like things 'warm' if they do get that way---I like the iceberg radishes--they have a warm flavor

one thing about radishes, they're not too expensive usually
 
  • #790
mapsurfer said:
This year I gave it a shot... Planted some legal herbs in my little garden, but having a tough time with germination rate of some of my hopefuls... and also the insects are wreaking havoc on a faster growing botanicals.. What a bummer. I thought about insecticides, but I was sort of waiting to see if these plants have enough fortitude to survive the attack of insects. Is there any natural way to spray to help my little green friends stay alive?

Some ppl have a green thumb, but unfortunately I am not one of them, but I am trying.

Regards,

-map

One guy on the tube mixes beer, liquid soap and 'some other ingredient' to use on his stuff (I forgot his name) from fertilizer to bug spray, and, I think, even for his deodorant
 
  • #791
mapsurfer said:
This year I gave it a shot... Planted some legal herbs in my little garden, but having a tough time with germination rate of some of my hopefuls... and also the insects are wreaking havoc on a faster growing botanicals.. What a bummer. I thought about insecticides, but I was sort of waiting to see if these plants have enough fortitude to survive the attack of insects. Is there any natural way to spray to help my little green friends stay alive?

Some ppl have a green thumb, but unfortunately I am not one of them, but I am trying.

Regards,

-map
There's a naturally-occuring substance called BT (bacillus thuringiensis [spelling?]) that you can mix with water and spray on your plants. It paralyzes the guts of most herbivorous insects so that they can't eat any more and they starve. If you have plants that are getting attacked by egg-laying bugs, you can spray them with a mix of water and canola oil. I put canola oil and a little bit of palm-oil-based dish detergent in a hose-fed sprayer and douse my apple trees with it as soon as the blossoms have dropped and periodically after heavy rains. Last year's apple crop was bountiful and practically insect-free with NO pesticides. The canola oil smothers the eggs and grubs and even adult bugs with no poison involved. For spot treatments of plants getting attacked by Japanese beetles, a spray bottle with a strong mix of palm-oil-based dish detergent and water works wonders.
 
  • #792
As a bonus, the early and persistent snow-pack prevented the lawns from freezing, so the moles got to feast heavily on Japanese beetle grubs. The lawn looks like a jigsaw puzzle, but if it means fewer Japanese beetles, that's a good pay-off!
 
  • #793
rewebster said:
one thing about radishes, they're not too expensive usually
A tiny bunch of radishes cost a $1.50. By weight, that's about $4 a pound. I think people don't realize how expensive they've gotten since they are usually used sparingly. I usually lightly sautee a pan of them in butter and I love adding them to dishes because of their peppery flavor.
 
  • #794
Evo said:
A tiny bunch of radishes cost a $1.50. By weight, that's about $4 a pound. I think people don't realize how expensive they've gotten since they are usually used sparingly. I usually lightly sautee a pan of them in butter and I love adding them to dishes because of their peppery flavor.
This is something that drives me nuts. Produce is often sold by "the bunch" and the prices are getting jacked up horribly. My wife and I started a small herb garden and grew a few herbs in pots on the deck, until last summer when we transferred basil, dill, parsley, and others to the garden proper. It's great to come up from the garden with a handful of fresh basil for a pesto or a bundle of dill flowers to put the florets in chili relish, salsas or pickles. You can't even by the florets in any supermarket, and if you could, they would probably cost more per pound than saffron. Dill can grow about anywhere, so give it a try. The florets (the tiny flowers at the ends of the skinny flower-stalks) are absolutely wonderful and beat the weed (green leaves) and seeded heads hands-down in every recipe that I've tried them in.
 
  • #795
turbo-1 said:
I hope the manure was old and well-rotted. Horses don't have multiple stomachs like cows and they don't chew their food thoroughly, so horse manure can have LOTS of weeds. Voice of Experience, here! After my father-in-law had his legs amputated due to side-effects of diabetes, he still wanted to garden, so he ordered seeds and fertilizer and I supplied all the labor. And what a LOT of labor that was! The guy he ordered manure from brought horse manure, not the promised cow manure, and I was fighting wild mustard, pig-weed, goose-foot, and dozens of other noxious weeds all summer.
Well, it's not well seasoned. We'll have to 'cook' it ourselves in our compost piles, which is why we got the manure. We already fight wild brambles and noxious weeds like crown vetch.

The topsoil, mix of manure and soil from their meadow seems well seasoned, so I'll be going back next weekend for the soil.
 
  • #796
iris.jpg

The irises are blooming around here.

peaches.jpg

the peaches look good for this time of the year

nectarines.jpg

these are necarines--I need to spray them now--they'll get a moth egg laid in the skin otherwise which will eventually rot the fruit

apples.jpg

this yellow delicious apple never has done well or produced much--it's a 'shade tree'
 
  • #797
For fruit trees, try canola oil with a bit of detergent in a hose-fed tree sprayer. It smothers the adults, grubs, and eggs. Prune your apple tree aggressively this fall to allow sunlight to penetrate to fruit-bearing branches. Apple trees should not be shade trees. My rule of thumb is that if I have pruned and am not asking myself, "Oh my gosh, did I prune too heavily?" I didn't prune enough.
 
  • #798
rewebster said:
iris.jpg

The irises are blooming around here.

peaches.jpg

the peaches look good for this time of the year

nectarines.jpg

these are necarines--I need to spray them now--they'll get a moth egg laid in the skin otherwise which will eventually rot the fruit

apples.jpg

this yellow delicious apple never has done well or produced much--it's a 'shade tree'
rew...you know what a woman wants. :!)
 
  • #799
Evo said:
rew...you know what a woman wants. :!)

hmmm-----an eccentric physicist with a British accent?
 
  • #800
rewebster said:
hmmm-----an eccentric physicist with a British accent?
No, fruit bearing trees.

My father's family owns huge orchards in Florida, and strawberry fields. They're a decent size supplier.

All my life I've wanted to live on a small farm, just fruits and vegetables, maybe some chickens for eggs.
 

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