Troubleshooting stove heating elements

In summary: Either is possible, but I assume it was designed for a fast start, then lower power to simmer.I don't follow. I assumed this was a heat thermostat that turned 'on' the second element when the first one got hot enough - to provide a "high" heat setting.Presumably, when 'on' the element will produce more heat than necessary, so it needs to turn off when the first element gets too hot.In summary, the old man fingers the phone of the whippersnapper, but the phone is not working. The old man is looking to replace the burners on the stove, but does not know if it is safe to try the new element without blowing
  • #1
DaveC426913
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TL;DR Summary
Stove elements take an hour to boil water.
Plz forgive. Old man fingers on young whippersnapper phone kb.

This stove takes an hour to boil a pot of water. I'm looking at replacing the burners right now. They look brand new (top) but who knows?

I bought this one (bottom) which is not exactly the same one. The prongs will fit but the new one has that box thing and it has two coils ,not one (apparently for lo and hi settings). Presumably, the box acts as a splitter but might it also act as a thermostat?

Anyway, is it safe to try the new element without blowing up the stove?

16143632222901847916093.jpg
 
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  • #2
Odds are that the problem is not in the burner, but rather in the controls. Before I replaced the burner I would try digging up the stove manufacturers spec for the resistance of the burner element, check with a VOM.

(And even though this forum is populated by mostly competent people, I wouldn’t trust advice about parts interchangeability that doesn’t come with part and model numbers).
 
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  • #3
I put in this new element and boiled a pot of water in six minutes flat.

I suspect that the box on the original is a thermostat that triggers the second element for cooking on hi. For some reason, it doesn't seem to be kicking in - so on hi I'm only getting half the output.
 
  • #4
As far as I know most older cook tops of this style vary the duty cycle depending on how far you turn the knob. While technically it is PWM, it occurs at a fairly slow rate maybe between .25 and several Hertz. I've never seen one with a box underneath like that. I'd be mighty appreciative if you cracked it open to tell us what's inside.
 
  • #5
PWM?

As soon as I am satisfied the new one works under field conditions, l plan to (get permission to) bust the old one open.
 
  • #6
I used to have a stove that had a "dual" burner where you could select either a six inch diameter center element (for a small pan) or the full eight inch burner. It was not that useful, and I can't remember where the switch was. Could that be what this is?
 
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  • #7
Looks like a thermostat.

Presumably, normally open (circuit) , but closes (electrically ) when sufficently hot.

P_20210226_165142_1.jpg
 
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  • #8
DaveC426913 said:
PWM?
Pulse Width Modulation. Did you think I meant Pretty Weird Mechanism? :-p
 
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  • #9
DaveC426913 said:
Presumably, normally open (circuit) , but closes (electrically ) when sufficently hot.
There are too many ways to interpret the English language.
"Normally closed" NC, means the second element has power when cold, but the switch contacts open to disconnect the power when hot.

It is a thermostat that regulates temperature by connecting the second element when below temperature. It will switch at the thermal time constant of the controlled element and sensor, probably about a 15 second period. So, yes it is an early PWM or bang-bang controller.
 
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  • #10
Baluncore said:
There are too many ways to interpret the English language.
"Normally closed" NC, means the second element has power when cold, but the switch contacts open to disconnect the power when hot.
Yeah. As I was writing, I realized that the terms could apply to circuitry or to physical flow. And they have opposite meanings.

An 'open circuit' means nothing passes, whereas an 'open flow' generally means something passes freely.

And I realized I wasn't actually sure which, exactly, this device was doing. Electricity? Or heat? Where exactly does the electricity in an element get converted into heat? Before or after this switch?
Baluncore said:
It is a thermostat that regulates temperature by connecting the second element when below temperature. It will switch at the thermal time constant of the controlled element and sensor, probably about a 15 second period. So, yes it is an early PWM or bang-bang controller.
I don't follow. I assumed this was a heat thermostat that turned 'on' the second element when the first one got hot enough - to provide a "high" heat setting.
 
  • #11
DaveC426913 said:
Where exactly does the electricity in an element get converted into heat? Before or after this switch?
The heat appears along the internal resistance wire of the element. The heat passes radially through the mineral insulation to the outer heated radiating envelope, that is earthed through the stove chassis.

DaveC426913 said:
I don't follow. I assumed this was a heat thermostat that turned 'on' the second element when the first one got hot enough - to provide a "high" heat setting.
Either is possible, but I assume it was designed for a fast start, then lower power to simmer. It might be designed as you suggest for more heat, but with reduced cold start current.
When it is cold, measure the resistance across the external element terminals. Then measure the resistance across the internal switched element terminals. If they are the same it is my fast start scenario, if they differ it is your initial surge current reduction scenario, or a faulty thermostat.
 
  • #12
Averagesupernova said:
Pulse Width Modulation. Did you think I meant Pretty Weird Mechanism? :-p
I was working on "Powerful Wave Motion" Gun. :wink:
1614398854958.png
 
  • #13
Baluncore said:
The heat appears along the internal resistance wire of the element. The heat passes radially through the mineral insulation to the outer heated radiating envelope, that is earthed through the stove chassis.
:slaps forehead:

It didn't occur to me that the element wasn't homogenous.
(My dumb brain was trying to reconcile either:
- heat being conducted from the terminal all the way through the coil's length,
or
- a coil that is, itself, electrically conductive.) :doh:

Of course there's a conductive wire running through the its core, electrically insulated from the ceramic sheath, so as not to zonk every hapless user.

Baluncore said:
When it is cold, measure the resistance across the external element terminals. Then measure the resistance across the internal switched element terminals.
Er. Ya lost me. external/internal switched?
 
  • #14
DaveC426913 said:
Er. Ya lost me. external/internal switched?
I can't see in the picture which spiral is which, but the thermal switch controls one element of a two element assembly, I think it is the inner turns that are switched.

The assembly has two external terminals. Follow one element from a terminal, through the thermal switch, and around and around to the other terminal. That is the controlled element.

Then follow the other element from one terminal to the other terminal, I think that element is the outer turns.

When the thermal switch conducts, the two elements are in parallel.
 

1. How do I know if my stove heating element is malfunctioning?

There are a few signs that may indicate a malfunctioning stove heating element. These include uneven heating, no heat at all, or a burning smell. If you notice any of these issues, it is likely that your heating element needs to be replaced.

2. Can I troubleshoot the heating element myself?

In some cases, you may be able to troubleshoot the heating element yourself. Check for any visible damage or debris on the element and clean it if necessary. You can also test the element with a multimeter to check for continuity. However, if the issue persists, it is best to seek professional help.

3. Why is my heating element not heating evenly?

Uneven heating can be caused by a few different factors. It could be due to a damaged or dirty element, a faulty thermostat, or an issue with the wiring. It is best to have a professional diagnose and fix the issue to ensure proper heating.

4. How often should I replace my stove heating element?

The lifespan of a stove heating element can vary depending on usage and maintenance. On average, they should be replaced every 3-5 years. However, if you notice any issues with the element, it is best to replace it sooner rather than later.

5. Can I use any type of heating element for my stove?

No, it is important to use the correct type of heating element for your specific stove model. Using the wrong type can cause damage to your stove and potentially be a safety hazard. Always consult the manufacturer's instructions or a professional for the correct replacement part.

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