What you're writing about c6 makes sense, the less force it takes to stretch the rope, the more impact would be absorbed by the rope, imparting less force on the climber and anchors. The unit is kilo-Newton though and 9 is a typical median number... UIAA lists a maximum number of 12Kn and I took...
Hi SnowLurk, thanks for following up on the thread. It's been a while since I looked at the spreadsheet and i don't remember specific steps taken to correct what's above. Units did get fixed and the formulas here (use this post as the xls starting point) are a copy from Goldstone's article...
Thanks for your reply. I fixed the typo you caught and also tried a couple of alternatives but I don't see the impact force increasing with fall factor... There should be a huge increase as charted here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2375113#2375113
One thing that...
Sorry, the Fall Factor and impact force link is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_factor
The formula I'm using in Excel, which changes very little despite a big change in rope stretch is: =$C3*$C4 + SQRT(POWER($C3*$C4, 2) + 2*$C6*$C3*$C4*C10)
=mg + [(mg)^2) + 2mgkR]^.5
Where m=mass (80k)...
I'm using the formulas on Wikipedia and the cited Goldstone article to try and figure out how much force I'll put on climbing hardware when taking a fall. The numbers in Excel all look the same despite rope stretch?
It's relevant because with aid climbing, fall distances are very short (and...