Any problem when a home power switch is staying between ON and OFF?

[kenny1999]

I have a socket on the wall , because of the size of the adapter, the switch on the socket is always stayed between "ON" and "OFF" while it serves and works. From the electrical point of view, is it a complete circuit inside?
is there any partial complete circuit which may be a problem?

 

[AZFIREBALL]

What is a Home Switch? (What country are you in?)

 

[kenny1999]

What is a Home Switch? (What country are you in?)

I mean the socket on the wall

 

[berkeman]

I mean the socket on the wall

Like this?

https://www.homelectrical.com/sites...uct/unsorted1/HOM-GPS15A3_1.jpg?itok=b-5gsfv6

 

[DaveE]

If you are operating the device in a manner that it was not designed for in normal use then you might have a problem. Without very specific information about the device and how you are operating it, we won't be able to give you an answer.
Most (well designed) consumer electrical devices are designed to fail safely, in the sense that you probably won't get electrocuted or burn your house down. They are not typically designed to operate reliably when used in unusual ways.

 

[Baluncore]

An electrical switch is designed to have mechanical hysteresis. That means you must mechanically move the switch significantly more than halfway, before it starts to change the electrical connection. You can usually feel the point where a switch flips or toggles. Since the adapter moves the switch only half-way, the switch is not toggling, and so is not changing the electrical circuit.

 

[kenny1999]

An electrical switch is designed to have mechanical hysteresis. That means you must mechanically move the switch significantly more than halfway, before it starts to change the electrical connection. You can usually feel the point where a switch flips or toggles. Since the adapter moves the switch only half-way, the switch is not toggling, and so is not changing the electrical circuit.

Hi, like this, I've just taken a picture. Is it fine? It's an air conditioner, it works, but don't know if it's a problem...

 

[kenny1999]

Like this?

https://www.homelectrical.com/sites...uct/unsorted1/HOM-GPS15A3_1.jpg?itok=b-5gsfv6
View attachment 247626

Hello. Like the one in my above replied. Thanks

 

[Baluncore]

I do not know your country, nor your switch convention.
Is the switch on when pressed down like shown, or is the switch on when it is up?

You should be able to find a better adaptor that does not obstruct the switch.

 

[Tom.G]

Hi, like this, I've just taken a picture. Is it fine? It's an air conditioner, it works, but don't know if it's a problem...

That "Could" be a problem. The danger is with the handle not moving all the way, the electrical contacts inside the switch may not be making very good electrical contact.

If this happens the switch will overheat and fail. It will also reduce the voltage to the air conditioner before it fails completely and may burn out the air conditioner motor.

It is better to find a smaller adapter as @Baluncore said, but you could try to file down (remove some material) from the corner of the adapter. If you see metal when you remove the corner, then do not use the adapter because it will not be safe. Buy a new adapter.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[kenny1999]

I do not know your country, nor your switch convention.
Is the switch on when pressed down like shown, or is the switch on when it is up?

You should be able to find a better adaptor that does not obstruct the switch.

The picture shows an "ON" situation. When it's pressed down, it's OFF.

It's an air-conditioner. I've used like this for years. Since Last year, my air conditioner sometimes doesn't get cooled. I am thinking if the problem was due to this. Any comment? Thanks !

 

[kenny1999]

That "Could" be a problem. The danger is with the handle not moving all the way, the electrical contacts inside the switch may not be making very good electrical contact.

If this happens the switch will overheat and fail. It will also reduce the voltage to the air conditioner before it fails completely and may burn out the air conditioner motor.

It is better to find a smaller adapter as @Baluncore said, but you could try to file down (remove some material) from the corner of the adapter. If you see metal when you remove the corner, then do not use the adapter because it will not be safe. Buy a new adapter.

Cheers,
Tom

Does a motor inside the appliance just simply "fail" or "fine"? Could there be any intermediate like partly failed but not totally.

Would it blow out bad air if it's partly failed?

 

[kenny1999]

Hi all

My electric appliance has a plug like this (picture below)

but my wall socket is like this (picture below)

What is the keywords of adapter I should use?
tool store nearby said they didn't sell it anymore

 

[Rive]

but my wall socket is like this (picture below)

Looks like some very old style socket. These cheap switches usually has a limited lifetime anyway, and even without molesting them the described way they tends to provide unstable contact with time (dangers were already described above).

Also, that adapter-like thing actually has holes on them??

I would prefer you buy a proper 'switched cbi wall socket' (google it!) and get somebody with a certificate to replace the socket.

 

[kenny1999]

Looks like some very old style socket. These cheap switches usually has a limited lifetime anyway, and even without molesting them the described way they tends to provide unstable contact with time (dangers were already described above).

Also, that adapter-like thing actually has holes on them??

I would prefer you buy a proper 'switched cbi wall socket' (google it!) and get somebody with a certificate to replace the socket.

You're right. But what did you mean by "holes" ? If you meant the holes drilled by worms... No...
Yes, it's an almost 30 years plug that has been discontinued (said by the guy), but I could still find it sold on the web.

Yes, I need to get someone certificated to do it for me, cost of work is high, so I want to get the most suitable socket. However, I've googled that, I don't quite understand what's that.

In addition, I could find an adapter of my current old style sold on the web with smaller size on a local web store,
is that OK to keep using an adapter if it's new and do not hit the switch? (It's an air-conditioner)

 

[kenny1999]

I just found an adapter like this? Looks good for my situation?

 

[Tom.G]

The picture shows an "ON" situation.

From the photos and explanation you provided, the way you have it now looks OK to me! The adapter is holding the switch On.

Does a motor inside the appliance just simply "fail" or "fine"? Could there be any intermediate like partly failed but not totally.

Often, but not always, a motor will overheat before it fails. It gets hot enough that it smells like something is burning. There are three motors in most air conditioners. Two drive the fans that move the indoor and outdoor air, and one that does the cooling. The on that does the cooling is usually completely sealed and you won't smell anything when it fails.

Would it blow out bad air if it's partly failed?

If it is the motor that moves the indoor air, yes, you can usually smell it.

I've used like this for years. Since Last year, my air conditioner sometimes doesn't get cooled. I am thinking if the problem was due to this. Any comment?

Since the unit is several years old it is likely that some of the refrigerant gas has leaked out so it does not cool as well. There is usually a safety switch built into the unit so if there is not enough refrigerant, the main (compressor) motor will shut off to avoid damage. This will show up on very hot days and the unit will turn On and Off without much cooling.

This can also happen if the parts around either of the fans are full of dust and blocking the air flow. A dirty filter can cause this too. You will have to take off the cover to check around the outdoor fan. BE SURE TO UNPLUG IT BEFORE REMOVING THE COVERS. Besides the electrical safety, a fan that starts with you finger in it WILL injure/cut the finger!

If it seems there is low refrigerant, there may be a service man that will come out and refill it; or maybe you can take it to him (cheaper that way!) If you decide to have it refilled, ask to have it tested for leaks! Often it is cheaper to just buy a new air conditioner instead of fixing and refilling a leaking one. The newer ones usually use less electricity too.

Let us know how it all turns out.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[kenny1999]

I found an adapter in the market which markets to be 13A to 16A. However, on the plug of my appliance it states 15A 250V. The physical shape is OK. Would that be suitable for my need? I don't know anything about voltage, power or current... Do I also need to find out the specification of my appliance to see if it will power too much which may burn the adapter or socket and cause danger?

 

[Tom.G]

That adapter would be fine if you decide to replace the one you have. The maximum current rating just tells you how much current it can supply to the appliance(s) without overheating. Since the plug is rated at 15A, you can be sure the appliance will not consume more than that. You are safely within the rating of the adapter.

Cheers,
Tom