Car stalls during idle after battery replacement, then fine after two days

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Replacing a car battery can lead to temporary stalling issues due to the engine control unit (ECU) needing time to recalibrate its fuel-air-timing settings after disconnection. This stalling may resolve itself after a few days as the ECU relearns optimal settings during idle. Different vehicles respond uniquely to battery replacements, and without specific make and model information, diagnosing the issue can be challenging. Concerns were raised about the reliability of modern vehicle software and the longevity of internal combustion engines compared to older models. Overall, if the car is running well after a few days, it is likely that the issue has been resolved.
  • #61
Ranger Mike said:
symbolipoint had a question. is it answered to his satisfaction.

...nuff said
I've thought about splitting-off the digression, but because there doesn't seem to be anything more to say on the original topic, it doesn't seem to matter if it is split or not. Also, nobody reported the thread digression, so evidently nobody feels too strongly about it being a problem.
 
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  • #62
russ_watters said:
Yup, happened to me once. It's incredibly difficult to drive a manual transmission if you have to keep one foot on the gas all the time to avoid stalling.
Heel and toe for gear changing and hill starts is the essence of a good driver.
 
  • #63
tech99 said:
Heel and toe for gear changing and hill starts
For hill starts, I've always preferred the emergency brake technique (but that assumes a hand-operated emergency brake lever). :smile:
 
  • #64
tech99 said:
Heel and toe for gear changing and hill starts is the essence of a good driver.
Early vehicles used a hand throttle, mounted on the steering column. There was no accelerator pedal in the model T Ford. Foot pedals were used to preselect a gear, then the other foot to operate the clutch.
 
  • #65
I learned to drive with a crash gearbox (no synchromesh) and have always wanted to do so again. When braking and slowing, you need to use the heel-and-toe technique so you can rev the engine in neutral whilst simultaneously braking. Sorry this is a bit off topic.
 
  • #66
tech99 said:
I learned to drive with a crash gearbox (no synchromesh) and have always wanted to do so again.
Then compromise by avoiding use of the clutch. Adjust the transmission load to zero, then knock the synchro box into neutral, adjust the revs, then knock it into the next gear, and take up the load.
If you get the RPM wrong often enough, you will wear out the synchro rings, and end up with a real crash box. Have fun.
 
  • #67
Baluncore said:
so why do people in the USA require so many cars to commute?
It's my precious and bus passengers smell. (Quote from a member of my family - and he's not even American)
 

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