Craft Beers, Microbreweries and Homebrewing

[Astronuc]

I changed the title, which is now more on-topic.

I'm going to join a friend making some homebrew this weekend - probably a Porter.

 

[nismaratwork]

I changed the title, which is now more on-topic.

I'm going to join a friend making some homebrew this weekend - probably a Porter.

A porter! Ooooohh... what kind of profile are you looking for? Agressive hopping, or more malt and nut/coffee flavor? Porter is SOOOOO good (Otter Creek StovePipe Porter being an example)

 

[dlgoff]

I changed the title, which is now more on-topic.

I'm going to join a friend making some homebrew this weekend - probably a Porter.

Have one for me Astronuc. Good idea on the title.

 

[Insanity]

8% or greater? Are you close to Kansas? If so, I'll be right over. :!)

Relatively close I suppose yes, if Michigan is close. Waiting to thaw out to brew again.
my barley wine is 11.5% I've made mead at 12.5%
want to attempt an all-grain to get over 20%.

 

[dlgoff]

Relatively close I suppose yes, if Michigan is close. Waiting to thaw out to brew again.
my barley wine is 11.5% I've made mead at 12.5%
want to attempt an all-grain to get over 20%.

This is outstanding info. You might have actually convinced me to look into this. Heck, I live near two grain elevators where you can get almost every kind of grain you want (Kansas grown). Since I like the Golden Wheat State microbrewery stuff, I wouldn't need barley. Or would I? Seems like I remember hearing you need both (wheat and barley)?

I'll do a little internet research in the meantime. I do have some pumps, solenoid valves, etc that might come in handy. My problem will be the space to do the process.

 

[turbo]

This is outstanding info. You might have actually convinced me to look into this. Heck, I live near two grain elevators where you can get almost every kind of grain you want (Kansas grown). Since I like the Golden Wheat State microbrewery stuff, I wouldn't need barley. Or would I? Seems like I remember hearing you need both (wheat and barley)?

I'll do a little internet research in the meantime. I do have some pumps, solenoid valves, etc that might come in handy. My problem will be the space to do the process.

Room shouldn't be a problem. I always cold-brewed my beers using Blue Ribbon barley malt and sometimes an admixture of Blue Ribbon corn malt. You need to boil some of the water, in order to dissolve the sugar and malt, then combine that mix with more water, yeast (after the water cools), hops, etc in your crock. It's easy, consistent, and rewarding.

If you want to get 'way back to the basics and start milling and cooking your own grains, etc, then you might need more resources, but if you start with sugar, canned malts, yeast, and hops, you can keep it simple.

 

[Astronuc]

A porter! Ooooohh... what kind of profile are you looking for? Agressive hopping, or more malt and nut/coffee flavor? Porter is SOOOOO good (Otter Creek StovePipe Porter being an example)

I don't know yet. My friend, who is also an officemate, has already picked out the recipe and ingredients. His last porter was really good.

I'd like it to be like Anchor Porter or Samuel Adams Honey Porter.

The other night, we had an after hours business development and beer tasting meeting.

We compared Smuttynose Robust Porter, Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter, Anchor Porter and Guinness Stout. The Smuttynose was hoppy, the Stovepipe was smooth, the Anchor was sweeter than the other two, and the Guinness rounded out the meeting, and was the last one.

At the moment, I'm testing Saranac Imperial Stout which has a nice taste and creamy texture.

We will be doing more testing this weekend.

 

[Insanity]

This is outstanding info. You might have actually convinced me to look into this. Heck, I live near two grain elevators where you can get almost every kind of grain you want (Kansas grown). Since I like the Golden Wheat State microbrewery stuff, I wouldn't need barley. Or would I? Seems like I remember hearing you need both (wheat and barley)?

I'll do a little internet research in the meantime. I do have some pumps, solenoid valves, etc that might come in handy. My problem will be the space to do the process.

beer can be made from almost any grain, so long the starches are converted into sugars somehow.

Barley and wheat I know have enough enzymes in the grain itself for it to convert when mashed in hot water. Other grains may need extra enzyme for the conversion, which you can get from a liquid extract or from mashing it with a grain that has enough enzymes, such as barley.

Of all the grains, barley, I believe, is the most desirable, due to starch content, enzyme content, and the husk.

A brew can be 100% barley or 100% wheat or any ratio in between and you can add other grains as well. There is what is called the grain bill, which the % that each type of grain makes the brew. Most brewing supply stores carry specialty grains, which can be a grain other then barley or wheat, or a variation of those two.

Pumps and valves maybe to much initially, everything that comes in contact with the beer before fermentation should be sanitized. The more little things you have, the more you'll need to sanitize, and the more complicated a thing it is, the more likely it may break.

I get along fine with ball valves on my kettles, just open it and it flows. Gravity does the work.

Unless the grains you get are already malted, you'll have to do that too, and that's challenging. I'd suggest buying malted grains from a brewing place, then from a grain elevator. Unmalted grain won't ferment, or very poorly if it does.

The Golden Wheat is about 25% wheat, and is fashioned after a Koelsch, very light colored beer, prominent hoppiness.

 

[zomgwtf]

My first experience with microbrewery beer was from this place last month:
http://www.thepublicanhouse.com

Since I live pretty close to it for school and in the dorm we were interested in trying something new so we bought a growler. It was pretty decent not going to lie.

I want to get into homebrewing but don't have the funds or time atm. Maybe over the summer.

 

[dlgoff]

Room shouldn't be a problem. I always cold-brewed my beers using Blue Ribbon barley malt and sometimes an admixture of Blue Ribbon corn malt. You need to boil some of the water, in order to dissolve the sugar and malt, then combine that mix with more water, yeast (after the water cools), hops, etc in your crock. It's easy, consistent, and rewarding.

If you want to get 'way back to the basics and start milling and cooking your own grains, etc, then you might need more resources, but if you start with sugar, canned malts, yeast, and hops, you can keep it simple.

I can see it all now. Remember... I use to work for a pharmaceutical company. I remember those large stainless steel vessels. Should I check if there's a law in how much I can make? Oh wait. I'll drink it all so I won't have to worry about storage.

beer can be made from almost any grain, so long the starches are converted into sugars somehow.

Barley and wheat I know have enough enzymes in the grain itself for it to convert when mashed in hot water. Other grains may need extra enzyme for the conversion, which you can get from a liquid extract or from mashing it with a grain that has enough enzymes, such as barley.

Of all the grains, barley, I believe, is the most desirable, due to starch content, enzyme content, and the husk.

A brew can be 100% barley or 100% wheat or any ratio in between and you can add other grains as well. There is what is called the grain bill, which the % that each type of grain makes the brew. Most brewing supply stores carry specialty grains, which can be a grain other then barley or wheat, or a variation of those two.

Pumps and valves maybe to much initially, everything that comes in contact with the beer before fermentation should be sanitized. The more little things you have, the more you'll need to sanitize, and the more complicated a thing it is, the more likely it may break.

I get along fine with ball valves on my kettles, just open it and it flows. Gravity does the work.

Unless the grains you get are already malted, you'll have to do that too, and that's challenging. I'd suggest buying malted grains from a brewing place, then from a grain elevator. Unmalted grain won't ferment, or very poorly if it does.

The Golden Wheat is about 25% wheat, and is fashioned after a Koelsch, very light colored beer, prominent hoppiness.

Thanks for the information Insanity. I might have to give it a try.

I was joking with turbo about storage. How do you do it?

I noticed you saying "my barley wine". I have made wine from home grown strawberries before, I used a 5 gallon water jug. I wish it was that easy.

 

[Insanity]

You should check into the laws for the state you live in. Michigan used to limit how much you could brew in a year and how much you could give away to friends, but recently they did away with the annual production limit.

Every state is likely different. I think this link will help.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/government-affairs/statutes

Kansas, correct? Looks like no limit on volume, but cannot distill.

Barley wine is made from malted grains, so it is a beer, but its ABV is as high or higher then wines, so its called a barley wine.

 

[nismaratwork]

I don't know yet. My friend, who is also an officemate, has already picked out the recipe and ingredients. His last porter was really good.

I'd like it to be like Anchor Porter or Samuel Adams Honey Porter.

The other night, we had an after hours business development and beer tasting meeting.

We compared Smuttynose Robust Porter, Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter, Anchor Porter and Guinness Stout. The Smuttynose was hoppy, the Stovepipe was smooth, the Anchor was sweeter than the other two, and the Guinness rounded out the meeting, and was the last one.

At the moment, I'm testing Saranac Imperial Stout which has a nice taste and creamy texture.

We will be doing more testing this weekend.

Good man... you taste so that we may live. *sniffle* This is a terrible burden I know, but remember that this information *burp* will not go to waste!

Oh, and Smuttynose anything is just terrific; that citrusy POW in the kisser with the malt goes so well.

 

[dlgoff]

Kansas, correct? Looks like no limit on volume, but cannot distill.

Barley wine is made from malted grains, so it is a beer, but its ABV is as high or higher then wines, so its called a barley wine.

Yes Kansas. Outstanding. I only drink beer (well Sherry on special PF chats) so no need for distilling.

I had no idea that you could get those kind of alcohol percentages.

Storage shouldn't be a problem for me once I get a good recipe (from experimentation) and get the timing of the process down.

How do you handle storage? I do know beer has a lifetime.

Regards

 

[Insanity]

You can bottle homebrew, takes some time as each bottle and cap must be sanitize. I use 12oz and 22oz, but larger are made and I've used 1gal jugs as well.

The soda kegs I've mentioned earlier in the thread work well too, only need to sanitize one thing. I wouldn't use a soda keg for something I plan on keeping around for too long, ideal for easy storage, dispensing for quick consumption. I use it more for my pale ales and such, kinda my house ale, for general drinking.

Beer can be kept anywhere from several months up to several years or more. In general, the higher the ABV, the longer it could be kept. Even the lower ABV is usually good for a few years, so long its kept in a cool and dark place.

 

[dlgoff]

Thank you Insanity. I'm glad you found Physicsforums.

I'll probably have some questions once I get started.

Oh, and thank you Astronuc for starting this thread.

 

[nismaratwork]

Thank you Insanity. I'm glad you found Physicsforums.

I'll probably have some questions once I get started.

Oh, and thank you Astronuc for starting this thread.

I'm not trying to dissuade you, far from it, just avoid the mistake I (and others) have made: do not over-sugar for the final stage of carbonation. Nothing sucks more than exploding bottles, and while I never brewed again (impracticle given my low consumption), my friend did not.

Any time and effort is worth crafting your own favorite beers, much as bread is best when made with skill and at home.

 

[dlgoff]

I'm not trying to dissuade you, far from it, just avoid the mistake I (and others) have made: do not over-sugar for the final stage of carbonation. Nothing sucks more than exploding bottles, and while I never brewed again (impracticle given my low consumption), my friend did not.

Any time and effort is worth crafting your own favorite beers, much as bread is best when made with skill and at home.

I'll certainly keep that in mind.

As to exploding. Been there, done that. Believe it or not, I started fermenting fruit juices as a preteen. Boy did I get into trouble when a couple of quart jars exploded. Dad made me pour it all out (and there were several gallons) but I snuck a few quarts outside and put them in a snow drift. It was a nice winter. Dad would kill me if he knew that.

 

[nismaratwork]

I'll certainly keep that in mind.

As to exploding. Been there, done that. Believe it or not, I started fermenting fruit juices as a preteen. Boy did I get into trouble when a couple of quart jars exploded. Dad made me pour is all out (and there were several gallons) but I snuck a few quarts outside and put in a snow drift. It was a nice winter. Dad would kill me if he knew that.

Excellent! You made Pruno as a kid! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruno

 

[dlgoff]

Excellent! You made Pruno as a kid! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruno

If I'm ever incarcerated I'll have it made.

 

[Insanity]

Exploding bottles are likely caused by bottling the beer when it is too young and fermentation has not finished, and/or, as mentioned, too much sugar during bottling.

How to avoid both.

Measure the specific gravity of the beer a few times after about 3 weeks. If it remains about the same, the fermentation should be done. Most of the fermentation takes place in the first 24-48 hours, but the rest can take days or weeks, even months depending on the sugar level, temp and all. A mead I made took 6mos to finish, but was worth the wait.

Rule of thumb is not to use more the 3/4 cup of priming sugar per 5 gallons during bottling. I always boil it in ~pint of water, pour that into a sanitized carboy, rack my beer into it, so it homogeneous, then bottle the beer from that carboy.

I've never had any bottles explode.

 

[turbo]

I've never had any bottles explode.

Me, either. I used way more sugar and malt than most in the initial fermentations, worked them down until the ferrmenting beer was flat (no more bubbles) and then decanted the beer into old swirl Pepsi bottles (very tough bottles) loaded with more sugar syrup before capping.

The result was very strong beer on a par with most wines. The old fellow that taught me how to brew used to say that if I did it right "Drink a pint before supper, and you can't tell me what you had for supper. Drink two pints before supper and you can't tell me if you had supper." He was right.

My wife and I would host pot-luck parties at that old farm-house, and I'd make core dishes like chili, spaghetti, breads, etc, plus supply beer. We'd also provide enough room for guests to crash for the night. A few years ago, a biker friend of mine met another guy in the real-estate business, and when he mentioned my name the other guy told him "He makes the best beer in the world!". He didn't mention that I also make the best spaghetti. He and I held a spaghetti challenge almost 35 years ago at that old farm-house to see who made the best sauce. The vote was about even, but he had sauce to take back home with him the next morning. My sauce (bigger batch) was gone. He is a proponent of the thick "meat sauce" model in which the ground meats are finely dispersed in the sauce and cooked a long time. Not me. I like to have chunks of seared browned meats, including ground beef, hot sausage, pepperoni, etc, in a sauce featuring lots of peppers, chilies, onions, garlic, etc. I don't want the sauce to be homogenized by over-cooking and simmering. You should be able to savor each mouth-ful.

 

[nismaratwork]

Oh yeah, just to be clear again: I messed up, it's not beer making that failed!

 

[Astronuc]

So we brewed a batch of porter this evening.

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Recipe_porter.pdf

For more ideas

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/index.php/cape-cod-homebrew-supply/beer-making/

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/index.php/category/recipes/

And we talked about beer making, the economy and investing, and seriously buying some land for growing grain and hops.

My friend and officemate has a great reference book:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CNQ4OS/?tag=pfamazon01-20

http://www.radicalbrewing.com/

And we tasted several porters and stouts, and Ayinger Celebrator, which is a Bavarian Doppelbock, and which must be a Schwarzbier.

The porters included Yuengling porter and Benchwarmer porter from Cooperstown Brewing
http://www.cooperstownbrewing.com/beer.htm

The stout was Rogue Mocha Stout.

 

[nismaratwork]

So we brewed a batch of porter this evening.

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Recipe_porter.pdf

For more ideas

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/index.php/cape-cod-homebrew-supply/beer-making/

http://www.capecodbeer.com/brewery/index.php/category/recipes/

And we talked about beer making, the economy and investing, and seriously buying some land for growing grain and hops.

My friend and officemate has a great reference book:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CNQ4OS/?tag=pfamazon01-20

http://www.radicalbrewing.com/

And we tasted several porters and stouts, and Ayinger Celebrator, which is a Bavarian Doppelbock, and which must be a Schwarzbier.

Hmmmm... I wonder if you could make a deal with Verrill or Idlewild Farms?... Maybe a local co-op? You wouldn't need much land to grow all the grains you needed.. some barley, rye, corn, and wheat should cover anything save wine.

 

[Insanity]

I got some data from the USDA, for lb yield per acre for several grains.

Barley = 2,510 lb/acre
Wheat = 2,143 lb/acre
Corn = 6,825 lb/acre
Rye = 1,310 lb/acre
Oats = 1,700 lb/acre
Rice = 6,647 lb/acre

To get 5 gallons of a beer at ~4.5% ABV needs ~8.5 lbs of barley/wheat.
An acre, growing several types should do anyone fine.

 

[dlgoff]

I got some data from the USDA, for lb yield per acre for several grains.

Barley = 2,510 lb/acre
Wheat = 2,143 lb/acre
Corn = 6,825 lb/acre
Rye = 1,310 lb/acre
Oats = 1,700 lb/acre
Rice = 6,647 lb/acre

To get 5 gallons of a beer at ~4.5% ABV needs ~8.5 lbs of barley/wheat.
An acre, growing several types should do anyone fine.

Growing is going to be out of the question. Thank god I live where grain is grown, even though I'll probably have to do some looking when it come to Barley, Rye and Hops. Everything else I can get from the grain elevators in 50 lb sacks.

I've got lots of learning to do.

 

[nismaratwork]

Growing is going to be out of the question. Thank god I live where grain is grown, even though I'll probably have to do some looking when it come to Barley, Rye and Hops. Everything else I can get from the grain elevators in 50 lb sacks.

I've got lots of learning to do.

You'll have no problem with Barley, it's still quite popular and sold in bulk in Whole Foods and similar stores.

Rye... you may need to look for, but Hops... hops you're best served by going to a brewing store; they're going to have the best selection for all kinds of hopping, up to and including aggressive dry hopping.

 

[dlgoff]

...but Hops... hops you're best served by going to a brewing store; they're going to have the best selection for all kinds of hopping, up to and including aggressive dry hopping.

I remember talk between Turbo-1 and Astronuc, a couple of years ago, about trying to grow hops up there in Maine.

If Astronuc or Turbo ever gets into the business of hops, they can put me on their buyers list.

Thanks for the info nismaratwork.

 

[nismaratwork]

I remember talk between Turbo-1 and Astronuc, a couple of years ago, about trying to grow hops up there in Maine.

If Astronuc or Turbo ever gets into the business of hops, they can put me on their buyers list.

Thanks for the info nismaratwork.

Oh you can definitely grow hops... it's related to cannabis, but generally is grown in a trellice. Quite fragrant though, so if you don't like the smell that can be an issue,... but then, who doesn't love that musky, bitter, citrus smell?

 

[Norman]

So next weekend, I will be heading out to Big Sky, MT for a conference. Why post in this thread about? Well, I plan on partaking in a bunch of Western Craft beers. Specifically, I want to check out Big Sky Brewing company. Here is there beer lineup: http://www.bigskybrew.com/Our_Beers

I really want to check out their brown ale, Moose Drool.

Anyone have any experience with Montana craft beers? Or just beers only found west of the Mississippi? I tend to stay away from IPAs, but everything else is on the table for me. So, any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[nismaratwork]

So next weekend, I will be heading out to Big Sky, MT for a conference. Why post in this thread about? Well, I plan on partaking in a bunch of Western Craft beers. Specifically, I want to check out Big Sky Brewing company. Here is there beer lineup: http://www.bigskybrew.com/Our_Beers

I really want to check out their brown ale, Moose Drool.

Anyone have any experience with Montana craft beers? Or just beers only found west of the Mississippi? I tend to stay away from IPAs, but everything else is on the table for me. So, any recommendations would be appreciated.

I'm not sure, but man, you had better take picture of these brews and post them!

You lucky devil!

 

[Insanity]

Oh you can definitely grow hops... it's related to cannabis, but generally is grown in a trellice. Quite fragrant though, so if you don't like the smell that can be an issue,... but then, who doesn't love that musky, bitter, citrus smell?

Hops grow quite well, during the growing season they can add 18 inches a day.
I know a few people here in Michigan that grow their own, some strains are very hardy, specifically the Cascade and Centennial hops. My college friend had started those two plus Saaz and another European strain, and the two European ones got ravaged by japanese beetles, but the American strains were untouched. Each year he cuts them back to the ground, covers them with leaves and they survive the winter fine. He says they are quite hardy, almost kudzu-ish.

Yes, Hops and Cannabis belong to the same plant family, Cannabaceae, which also includes hackberries.

Hops are also relatively new in brewing within the last few centuries I think, various spices and herbs were used to add flavor to beer before the usage of hops. There still is a style called gruit, which does not use any hops. This summer friend of mine brewed one, he used lemongrass, nutmeg, allspice and a few other herbs. Smelled awesome, and many people he should use it to cook a chicken with.

 

[nismaratwork]

Hops grow quite well, during the growing season they can add 18 inches a day.
I know a few people here in Michigan that grow their own, some strains are very hardy, specifically the Cascade and Centennial hops. My college friend had started those two plus Saaz and another European strain, and the two European ones got ravaged by japanese beetles, but the American strains were untouched. Each year he cuts them back to the ground, covers them with leaves and they survive the winter fine. He says they are quite hardy, almost kudzu-ish.

Yes, Hops and Cannabis belong to the same plant family, Cannabaceae, which also includes hackberries.

Hops are also relatively new in brewing within the last few centuries I think, various spices and herbs were used to add flavor to beer before the usage of hops. There still is a style called gruit, which does not use any hops. This summer friend of mine brewed one, he used lemongrass, nutmeg, allspice and a few other herbs. Smelled awesome, and many people he should use it to cook a chicken with.

AFAIK you're right about hops, and I think some true Lambics are also unhopped. 18 inches though? Fantastic!

What kind of soil do you need to grow them, and how does it effect flavor and aroma? You seem to really know your stuff!

 

[Insanity]

I don't think they really require anything more then slightly raised bed to allow some drainage. The local brew supply place sells the rhizomes in the springtime, I thought I might get some of cascade and centennial, the most common used, and see if I can start some of my own. I am sure fertilizing each season wouldn't hurt, composed manure. I'll ask my friend.

Dealing with the vines is the bigger challenge. My friend usually goes out each day during the growing season and ties down the vines so they don't go everywhere, and I believe he has some growing up a gazebo, and then a trellis on the side of his house. As the vines can reach a length of 20ft, even during their first growing season, you need space for them. He usually gets several pounds of hop flowers from each vine, so a fair amount, enough for homebrewing. A good pale ale doesn't need more then an ounce per 5 gallons usually. IPAs might take 3-5 oz depending on how bitter you want it. Each strain of hops has a range of percentage of the alpha acid, which provides the bitterness, and that can vary from season to season. Cascade and Centennial are usually high in alpha acids, 5.75% - 10%. There is math to figure out how much to use to hit a target bitterness, or IBU (International Bitterness Unit).

I've spent many hours reading books on beer making, and belong to a local brewing club. Kinda unique among my brewing club as I have a bio/chem degree and am perfectly willing to study and learn it, and know there is a science behind the art of brewing. Some of the best homebrewers out there are engineers or scientists.

Got third place in my first competition with my first fruit beer, which I was happy. Got a bit of cash and some free mystery hops.

Charlie Papazian is notable for his book The Complete Joy of Homebrewing. and is current president of the Brewers Association, he is a nuclear engineer.

Ray Daniels wrote Designing Great Beers, he holds a degree in Biochemistry and has won numerous awards at beer competitions.

For those looking to seriously get into homebrewing and making good brew, I highly recommending getting these two books. Charlie's I think is the best intro into homebrewing and Ray's is great for looking at the many different styles and how to make them.

John Palmer wrote How to Brew, he is a metallurgist, he also made a sliderule to do gravity/volume conversion and IBU calculations with. Got this for Xmas this past.

Maybe I'll get a list of the books I own on homebrewing.

 

[nismaratwork]

I don't think they really require anything more then slightly raised bed to allow some drainage. The local brew supply place sells the rhizomes in the springtime, I thought I might get some of cascade and centennial, the most common used, and see if I can start some of my own. I am sure fertilizing each season wouldn't hurt, composed manure. I'll ask my friend.

Dealing with the vines is the bigger challenge. My friend usually goes out each day during the growing season and ties down the vines so they don't go everywhere, and I believe he has some growing up a gazebo, and then a trellis on the side of his house. As the vines can reach a length of 20ft, even during their first growing season, you need space for them. He usually gets several pounds of hop flowers from each vine, so a fair amount, enough for homebrewing. A good pale ale doesn't need more then an ounce per 5 gallons usually. IPAs might take 3-5 oz depending on how bitter you want it. Each strain of hops has a range of percentage of the alpha acid, which provides the bitterness, and that can vary from season to season. Cascade and Centennial are usually high in alpha acids, 5.75% - 10%. There is math to figure out how much to use to hit a target bitterness, or IBU (International Bitterness Unit).

I've spent many hours reading books on beer making, and belong to a local brewing club. Kinda unique among my brewing club as I have a bio/chem degree and am perfectly willing to study and learn it, and know there is a science behind the art of brewing. Some of the best homebrewers out there are engineers or scientists.

Charlie Papazian is notable for his book The Complete Joy of Homebrewing. and is current president of the Brewers Association, he is a nuclear engineer.

Ray Daniels wrote Designing Great Beers, he holds a degree in Biochemistry and has won numerous awards at beer competitions.

For those looking to seriously get into homebrewing and making good brew, I highly recommending getting these two books. Charlie's I think is the best intro into homebrewing and Ray's is great for looking at the many different styles and how to make them.

John Palmer wrote How to Brew, he is a metallurgist, he also made a sliderule to do gravity/volume conversion and IBU calculations with. Got this for Xmas this past.

Maybe I'll get a list of the books I own on homebrewing.

Nice... this is why I finally snagged a Kindle. Thanks very much Insanity, you're a fount of good information!

 

[dlgoff]

Oh you can definitely grow hops... it's related to cannabis, but generally is grown in a trellice. Quite fragrant though, so if you don't like the smell that can be an issue,... but then, who doesn't love that musky, bitter, citrus smell?

Well then. I certainly have the space. Sounds like more research.

What kind of soil do you need to grow them, and how does it effect flavor and aroma? You seem to really know your stuff!

Great question. I guessing that since cannabis grows wild everywhere around here (mainly around rail ways where it was shipped for hemp products during WWII), hops should do well here.

And I agree about Insanity knowing his stuff. Maybe PF should have a new category for the annual awards. A BEER GURU award would definitely go to him.

 

[nismaratwork]

Well then. I certainly have the space. Sounds like more research.



Great question. I guessing that since cannabis grows wild everywhere around here (mainly around rail ways where it was shipped for hemp products during WWII), hops should do well here.

And I agree about Insanity knowing his stuff. Maybe PF should have a new category for the annual awards. A BEER GURU award would definitely go to him.

Hmmm... PF Oktoberfest?

 

[dlgoff]

There must be something wrong with me. I went all weekend without a beer; and I had those two six packs of Wheat State Golden that I wanted to try.

It's noon her now so I'm catching up for lost time.

BTW There's only one liquor store that carries Free State microbrewery beer in Lawrence, so far. It was less than $4/6-pack which is much cheaper than the growler route and taste great.

I also checked into home brewing suppliers here in Kansas and there are three. One is just about 20 miles down the road in north Topeka. Yea!

 

[Insanity]

I also checked into home brewing suppliers here in Kansas and there are three. One is just about 20 miles down the road in north Topeka. Yea!

Pick the one that knows the alpha acid % (AA%) of their hops and that the hops are refrigerated. Any place that doesn't know the AA% shouldn't be open in many brewers opinions. A good place also has a grain mill to crush the grains there. Crushing grains without one is quite difficult.

Find a local club.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/directories/find-a-club

Find a local supply shop

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/directories/find-a-supply-shop

 

[nismaratwork]

There must be something wrong with me. I went all weekend without a beer; and I had those two six packs of Wheat State Golden that I wanted to try.

It's noon her now so I'm catching up for lost time.

BTW There's only one liquor store that carries Free State microbrewery beer in Lawrence, so far. It was less than $4/6-pack which is much cheaper than the growler route and taste great.

I also checked into home brewing suppliers here in Kansas and there are three. One is just about 20 miles down the road in north Topeka. Yea!

Hmmmm, I don't think I'll be making jokes at Kansas' expense anymore. Yum.

 

[dlgoff]

Pick the one that knows the alpha acid % (AA%) of their hops and that the hops are refrigerated. Any place that doesn't know the AA% shouldn't be open in many brewers opinions. A good place also has a grain mill to crush the grains there. Crushing grains without one is quite difficult.

Find a local club.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/directories/find-a-club

Find a local supply shop

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/directories/find-a-supply-shop

Again, thanks for helping.

I thought I would try to get over to the Topeka supplier later this week and have a little talk with them. So I'm putting these questions at the top of the list. I do think they have milling services but I'll make sure.

 

[Insanity]

When I've gotten 55# bags of pale malt, is usually comes crushed, but specialty grains are usually sold in 1#, 3#, 10#.

There has been occasions where I forgot to get the grains crushed, and as I don't yet have my own mill, the alternate to use a rolling pin, and even 2# is rough.

Having a variety of hops, grains and yeast is nice. The yeast is what really makes the beer. You can use the same amount of grains and hops, but use two different yeast and each beer will differ.

 

[nismaratwork]

When I've gotten 55# bags of pale malt, is usually comes crushed, but specialty grains are usually sold in 1#, 3#, 10#.

There has been occasions where I forgot to get the grains crushed, and as I don't yet have my own mill, the alternate to use a rolling pin, and even 2# is rough.

Having a variety of hops, grains and yeast is nice. The yeast is what really makes the beer. You can use the same amount of grains and hops, but use two different yeast and each beer will differ.

Mmmm... yeast... truly a wonderful organism(s)... MOST of the time.

 

[Insanity]

I think the yeast is more important in brewing then most people realize, and there are many different strains of yeast used in brewing aside from the broad ale and lager categories.

White Labs and Wyeast Labs are pretty much the top two labs for producing yeast for fermentation of beer, ciders and wine. Both have about 50 different yeast strains, that can differ in alcohol tolerance, attenuation, flavor profile, etc...

Which is great, because if you want to make a dry irish stout, you can use an irish yeast.

[PLAIN]http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html[/PLAIN] 
http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm

I have read that the Belgium trappist breweries are so particular, that when they will select their yeast cell by cell under a microscope to choose which ones are used to establish their "base".

 

[nismaratwork]

I think the yeast is more important in brewing then most people realize, and there are many different strains of yeast used in brewing aside from the broad ale and lager categories.

White Labs and Wyeast Labs are pretty much the top two labs for producing yeast for fermentation of beer, ciders and wine. Both have about 50 different yeast strains, that can differ in alcohol tolerance, attenuation, flavor profile, etc...

Which is great, because if you want to make a dry irish stout, you can use an irish yeast.

[PLAIN]http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html[/PLAIN] 
http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain.cfm

I have read that the Belgium trappist breweries are so particular, that when they will select their yeast cell by cell under a microscope to choose which ones are used to establish their "base".

That does make sense... much the same issues with starter for bread.

 

[Insanity]

AFAIK you're right about hops, and I think some true Lambics are also unhopped. 18 inches though? Fantastic!

What kind of soil do you need to grow them, and how does it effect flavor and aroma? You seem to really know your stuff!

I asked my friend about what he does for his hops each year, and he says he throws a heaping pile of fresh compost from his compost pile and then uses a light 1/5 strength miracle grow when they start to flower.

 

[nismaratwork]

I asked my friend about what he does for his hops each year, and he says he throws a heaping pile of fresh compost from his compost pile and then uses a light 1/5 strength miracle grow when they start to flower.

Well, that sounds pretty easy! The vine mangement... not so much, but possibly fun. Thanks Insanity!

 

[Norman]

The more I think about it, the more interested I would be in getting into homebrewing.

The only reservation I have about it is trying to regulate the temperature during fermentation. How do people typically do this? I doubt my wife would let me do the fermentation in the house... My house is horribly insulated anyways. Wild temperature variations in winter when I turn the heat way down while we are at work. I don't have a basement and my garage is not connected to the house nor is it heated.

 

[nismaratwork]

The more I think about it, the more interested I would be in getting into homebrewing.

The only reservation I have about it is trying to regulate the temperature during fermentation. How do people typically do this? I doubt my wife would let me do the fermentation in the house... My house is horribly insulated anyways. Wild temperature variations in winter when I turn the heat way down while we are at work. I don't have a basement and my garage is not connected to the house nor is it heated.

Bathtub.

 

[Insanity]

There are brew belts and other electric devices to keep things warm. There are also thermostat devices to keep freezer and/or fridges at the ideal temps for cooler fermentations, such as lagers.

[PLAIN]http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/fermentation-temperature-control

[/PLAIN]

Ideally, the temp must be around 70-74F to allow fermentation to start, but afterwards, keeping it around 60F is fine. Lagering can be done down to as low as 35F. It all depends on the beer being made. Belgium styles sometimes ferment in the mid 80s.

Unless your house is constantly in the 80s in the summer, or in the 50s in the winter, I wouldn't be too concerned. I don't use any temp control devices myself, but I do have a large basement where I place my fermentors after the primary fermetation has started.

It is important that it is in a dark area though, sunlight will inhibit fermetation and skunk beer quickly. Wrapping a heavy blanket or towel around the fermentor will help that.