Craft Beers, Microbreweries and Homebrewing

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The discussion highlights a strong appreciation for craft beers and microbreweries across the U.S., with specific mentions of popular locations like Rock Bottom Tavern, Stone Brewing Co., and Oak Pond Brewery. Participants share their favorite brews, including unique ales and lagers, and discuss the brewing process, particularly the use of top and bottom-fermenting yeasts. The conversation also touches on the evolution of American brewing since the 1980s, noting the rise of craft breweries and their growing international recognition. Overall, the thread reflects a vibrant community of beer enthusiasts eager to explore and celebrate diverse brewing styles.
  • #151
nismaratwork said:
Bathtub.

I've placed my fermentors there too, just in case the fermentation got over active, which happens. My wife requested not to do this anymore. It was easier then carrying 5 gallons in a large glass jug up and down the basement stairs.

A friend dropped one of his 7 gallons filled with apple raspberry wine, quite the mess. Loss of wine too.
 
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  • #152
Insanity said:
I've placed my fermentors there too, just in case the fermentation got over active, which happens. My wife requested not to do this anymore. It was easier then carrying 5 gallons in a large glass jug up and down the basement stairs.

A friend dropped one of his 7 gallons filled with apple raspberry wine, quite the mess. Loss of wine too.


Ooooooh... 7 gallons?! Damn... was that a Lambic too?!
 
  • #153
nismaratwork said:
Ooooooh... 7 gallons?! Damn... was that a Lambic too?!

Nope, he makes wine, he has 4-5 acres and has several (1000 or so) strawberry, raspberry, blackberry plants, some grape vines and apple trees. So he makes wine with it all, he made a very good blueberry wine last season, think he hit 19% ABV. When you had a glass, you knew you had a glass.

We are in the process of cross training each other, I am teaching him beer making, he will be teaching me wine making. All my attempts at wine have failed, except the pineapple I did from a concentrate. Fresh fruits have failed, though might be decent grape vinegar.

I had used his raspberries in my raspberry wheat beer that I got 3rd place in a local competition. Has a nice hawaiian punch color to it, bit tart, but aging I think it removing that. Not my personal favorites of what I made, but good first attempt at a fruit beer.
 
  • #154
I have Concord grape vines climbing all the trees on the back side of my garden. I have juiced the grapes for my wife (she likes mixed juices and smoothies) a couple of years, but lately invasions of Japanese beetles have decimated the grape crop. I'd consider making wine with them, but there aren't enough good grapes left after the beetles are through with them. I have seeded my lawns with milky spore ($$$$) in an attempt to stop the beetles, but only one other organic-gardening neighbor has done the same, so we both get beetles from other neighbors' properties. We refuse to use poisons on our trees, berry bushes, gardens, etc.
 
  • #155
Try a bird feeder, or several, throughout your property, and near your grapes. Maybe even a bird bath without a short distance from the grapes. Birds are way more effective than you or I and getting rid of insects. Starlings will eat adult beetles, and robins, cardinals and catbirds may as well. Chickens would too I guess.

I know ladybugs are good against aphids, but I doubt japanese beetles. Praying mantises might be, I've seen egg cases for them sold at garden shops before.
 
  • #156
I have a bird-bath, a very large backyard pond, a smaller pond near the garden, seed feeders under the eaves, etc, so no shortage of birds. Somehow, the birds don't seem very effective at controlling Japanese beetles, though. Maybe they don't taste good. I know that they stink to high heaven if I don't change the soapy water in my "drowning bucket" for a day or so.
 
  • #157
Insanity said:
Nope, he makes wine, he has 4-5 acres and has several (1000 or so) strawberry, raspberry, blackberry plants, some grape vines and apple trees. So he makes wine with it all, he made a very good blueberry wine last season, think he hit 19% ABV. When you had a glass, you knew you had a glass.

We are in the process of cross training each other, I am teaching him beer making, he will be teaching me wine making. All my attempts at wine have failed, except the pineapple I did from a concentrate. Fresh fruits have failed, though might be decent grape vinegar.

I had used his raspberries in my raspberry wheat beer that I got 3rd place in a local competition. Has a nice hawaiian punch color to it, bit tart, but aging I think it removing that. Not my personal favorites of what I made, but good first attempt at a fruit beer.

Wow... 7 gallons of WINE... he must have wept. I love that kind of fruity stuff, lambics, as well as the "bread-like" and hoppy bears.

@Turbo-1: You have many good options, ranging from chemical to... well.. still chemical, but in a biological form.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_beetle
Wikipedia said:
During the larval stage, the Japanese beetle lives in lawns and other grasslands, where it eats the roots of grasses. During that stage, it is susceptible to a fatal disease called milky spore disease, caused by a bacterium called milky spore, Paenibacillus (formerly Bacillus) popilliae. The USDA developed this biological control and it is commercially available in powder form for application to lawn areas. Standard applications (low density across a broad area) take from one to five years to establish maximal protection against larval survival (depending on climate), expanding through the soil through repeated rounds of infection, in-vers can be used to exclude the beetles; however, this may necessitate hand pollination of flowers. Kaolin sprays can also be used as barriers.

Research performed by many US extension service branches has shown pheromone traps attract more beetles than they catch,[3][4] Traps are most effective when spread out over an entire community, and downwind and at the borders (i.e., as far away as possible, particularly upwind), of managed property containing plants being protected. Natural repellents include catnip, chives, garlic, and tansy,[5] as well as the remains of dead beetles, but these methods have limited effectiveness.[6] Additionally, when present in small numbers, the beetles may be manually controlled using a soap-water spray mixture, shaking a plant in the morning hours and disposing of the fallen beetles,[4] or simply picking them off attractions such as rose flowers, since the presence of beetles attracts more beetles to that plant.[6]
 
  • #158
turbo-1 said:
I have a bird-bath, a very large backyard pond, a smaller pond near the garden, seed feeders under the eaves, etc, so no shortage of birds. Somehow, the birds don't seem very effective at controlling Japanese beetles, though. Maybe they don't taste good. I know that they stink to high heaven if I don't change the soapy water in my "drowning bucket" for a day or so.
They apparently taste offensive to bird. The stinky smell is from decomposition and bacteria.
 
  • #159
Astronuc said:
They apparently taste offensive to bird.
That was my assumption. We can be inundated with Japanese beetles, and insectivorous birds don't seem to eat them, though they are a very abundant and massive food source. Those beetles are pretty big, and are not real nimble, but our phoebes, yellow-throats, and other insect predators don't touch them. There are phoebes that nest under our deck and raise a couple of broods a year, and they are constantly on the hunt for food for their babies. Also, the brushy south border of the cleared part of this lot is a favorite nesting site for yellow-throats. They will helpfully come to my garden and patrol tomato plants, pepper plants, etc for bugs, but they don't go after the Japanese beetles. I would try mantises again, though the season here is so short that the mantises don't attain a size capable of tackling very large beetles.

My wife and I are greatly expanding our flower gardens in front of the house, and that may help. The most effective natural control on Japanese beetles is a parasitic fly that lays its eggs on the beetles, so their larvae can eat the beetles from the inside out. The flies look similar to common houseflies, but they are vegetarian and consume pollen and nectar. We intend to plant many varieties of flowers and flowering plants so that the flies have a very long season of abundant food and no reason to leave the property.

BTW, the milky-spore is at least somewhat effective, as evidenced by the paucity of mole and vole tunnels in the spring when the snow melts. Our neighbors have lots of mole/vole tunnels in their lawns, as the rodents dig along in search of beetle larvae.
 
  • #160
perhaps a flamethrower against the beetles?
 
  • #161
Insanity said:
perhaps a flamethrower against the beetles?
I have a very potent LP torch, but since the beetles seem to congregate on our plum trees, cherry trees, raspberry bushes, etc, there is a down-side to the practical approach.
 
  • #162
turbo-1 said:
I have a very potent LP torch, but since the beetles seem to congregate on our plum trees, cherry trees, raspberry bushes, etc, there is a down-side to the practical approach.

Do you have cattle? I usually associate an LP torch with singing hairs on live-stock, (worked on a farm in NY as a kid).
 
  • #163
This place has a good list of domestic and foreign craft beers.

One can browse by brewery, region, nation, or type of beer, and they have various give packages.

http://www.halftimebeverage.com/
 
  • #164
Astronuc said:
This place has a good list of domestic and foreign craft beers.

One can browse by brewery, region, nation, or type of beer, and they have various give packages.

http://www.halftimebeverage.com/

MMmmmmmmmm...
 
  • #165
So far have indulged in 2 local beers out here in Montana:

http://bozemanbrewing.com/bozoneBeer.php" - pretty decent American style hefeweizen. Missing the depth of nuance in the citrus you get from the top tier German Hefeweizens, however.

http://www.bigskybrew.com/Our_Beers/Moose_Drool" - a quality american brown ale. Didn't have much time to savor it, was eating and chatting. I will have another.
 
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  • #166
Recently had Abita's Purple Haze, a raspberry wheat. The hint of raspberry is just there, but not overwhelming as is the aroma. Quite good, though personally I would prefer a bit more of the raspberry to come through.

Also had Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale, from Yorkshire, a Northern English brown ale. The brewery still draws its water from the original well put in place in 1758. Deep red-brown, but clear beer, toffee and caramel flavors there, but not strong. Another good one.
 
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  • #167
Samuel Smith's from Tadcaster makes some great beers and ales.

I had a bottle of Rogue Chocolate Stout last night, and it tasted like bittersweet chocolate in a stout beer. The chocolate taste was actually more like cocoa taste. It was certainly the most chocolaty tasting Chocolate Stout I've ever tasted.
 
  • #168
Indeed, and their yeast strain is about a 100 years old, the oldest in its region.
I also heard that they caused some controversy by removing all tvs and such from their pub, attempting to bring the old real pub feel back.
 
  • #169
It's a little further from me (Topeka, KS), but they make some really good unfiltered wheat beer.

http://www.blindtiger.com/ales.html"

What does unfiltered really mean? I know it's much "heavier" but the taste is awesome.
 
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  • #170
dlgoff said:
It's a little further from me (Topeka, KS), but they make some really good unfiltered wheat beer.

http://www.blindtiger.com/ales.html"

What does unfiltered really mean? I know it's much "heavier" but the taste is awesome.

Filtering means literally passing the beer through a filter after fermentation. It removes the yeast and larger solids from the beer. Filtration requires a forced carbonation of the beer.

The removal of the yeast and solids changes the flavor, nutritional value, and texture in the mouth of the beer.
 
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  • #171
the leftover yeast is supposedly high in vitamins and minerals.
 
  • #172
Insanity said:
the leftover yeast is supposedly high in vitamins and minerals.

Plus, it's yummy...
 
  • #173
Insanity said:
the leftover yeast is supposedly high in vitamins and minerals.
That is the basis of Vegemite.
 
  • #174
Astronuc said:
That is the basis of Vegemite.

Indeed, but also the basis for really good pita bread!

Vegemite... that's... just evil.
 
  • #175
Insanity said:
Recently had Abita's Purple Haze, a raspberry wheat. The hint of raspberry is just there, but not overwhelming as is the aroma. Quite good, though personally I would prefer a bit more of the raspberry to come through.

Also had Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale, from Yorkshire, a Northern English brown ale. The brewery still draws its water from the original well put in place in 1758. Deep red-brown, but clear beer, toffee and caramel flavors there, but not strong. Another good one.

Abita has a few good brews. Normally I would completely shy away from a fruity beer, but a friend had some of their Strawberry Harvest Lager, so I tried it. I was really impressed. It had just a hint of strawberry. My suggestion is to stay away from the Satsuma though. I couldn't finish one bottle. I've also got one or two Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale in my fridge.

Astronuc said:
I had a bottle of Rogue Chocolate Stout last night, and it tasted like bittersweet chocolate in a stout beer. The chocolate taste was actually more like cocoa taste. It was certainly the most chocolaty tasting Chocolate Stout I've ever tasted.

I definitely liked Rogue Chocolate Stout. I picked it up on a whim a few months ago. I think I could enjoy that one as "dessert" almost any time. I really enjoy the Hazelnut Brown Nectar and the Irish Lager was, although nothing special like most of their brews, very easy to drink. I personally didn't care for the Chipotle Ale, although I don't remember specifics.
 
  • #176
Blue Dawg's Blueberry ale is good too, and strong. 9% and you know there are blueberries when you open it. The aroma is awesome I think, deep purple color with berry bits in it, real berries.
 
  • #177
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  • #178
Are you looking at having the brewery for you with their beer? I am not sure if they would, there might be a law concerning the type of containers the beer can be distributed into.

Soda kegs can come as pin locks or ball locks, ball locks are more common. If you are using a soda keg, they do need a CO2 canister hooked up, even if you pressurize it, the CO2 does dissolve into the beer, and as you dispense beer, the pressure decreases and then no beer flows.

sorry, i can't look at your links, i can't get to PF except on my phone currently since yesterday.
 
  • #179
Insanity said:
Are you looking at having the brewery for you with their beer? I am not sure if they would, there might be a law concerning the type of containers the beer can be distributed into.

Soda kegs can come as pin locks or ball locks, ball locks are more common. If you are using a soda keg, they do need a CO2 canister hooked up, even if you pressurize it, the CO2 does dissolve into the beer, and as you dispense beer, the pressure decreases and then no beer flows.

sorry, i can't look at your links, i can't get to PF except on my phone currently since yesterday.
Okay, thanks. I was looking into getting a container that I could use for filling at my local microbrewery until I can get something going on my own. I can call them and ask.

I hope you can get the PF/computer problem resolved.
 
  • #180
if they will fill, you will still need CO2 to push the beer.

what the cost of the kegs.
 
  • #181
Insanity said:
if they will fill, you will still need CO2 to push the beer.

what the cost of the kegs.

Could you use nitrogen, or is that just Guinness?
 
  • #182
Insanity said:
if they will fill, you will still need CO2 to push the beer.

what the cost of the kegs.
The one I was looking at was a 5 Gallon Cornelious Keg Ball Lock for $39. It was one listed on the homebrewing.org link you provided.

At the microbrewery, looks like they will sell 5 gallons of beer in their kegs with a $100 deposit. I'm not sure of the type of keg they use however.
 
  • #183
$39 is a fair price, got mine for $35.
 
  • #184
I have to say, that's a pretty good looking and tough looking keg.

Kegs: When a growler is just the beginning. :wink:
 
  • #185
you might need to replace o-rings or poppets. can't really tell under you lock the cap, pressurize it, and have the connectors on.

there are 5 o-rings, one for the cap and two per poppet, one outside and one inside. you can use a wrench to remove the connector to get at the one inside.

co2 or n2 can be used, CO2 is more common, i think n2 cylinders, regulators and gas cost a bit more as well. n2 probably would have different mouthfeel, texture.
 
  • #186
Insanity said:
you might need to replace o-rings or poppets. can't really tell under you lock the cap, pressurize it, and have the connectors on.

there are 5 o-rings, one for the cap and two per poppet, one outside and one inside. you can use a wrench to remove the connector to get at the one inside.

co2 or n2 can be used, CO2 is more common, i think n2 cylinders, regulators and gas cost a bit more as well. n2 probably would have different mouthfeel, texture.

So, better to stick with whatever is in the beer to begin with?
 
  • #187
All beer has CO2 as yeast produce it as part of the fermentation process. I don't know when N2 started being used, but even serving beer under CO2 pressure is quite new, circa 1930-40's in the UK at least, I think it took time to get elsewhere, perhaps 1970s for USA.

Nifty enough, in the UK the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) started shortly after using pressurized CO2, to protect unpressurized beer. Real ale is not served under pressure, and is served via gravity feed or hand pumps from the cask. It can include bottled beer, so long as the carbonation is natural, from yeast in the ale.

N2 is more commonly used with "creamy" beers and dry stouts to produce a rich head, less carbonated flavor. Unless you are serving something like this, N2 would not be appropriate, though it would work, but the beer would not appear, or have the mouthfeel it is supposed it.

I'd say stick with CO2 initially.
 
  • #188
Insanity said:
All beer has CO2 as yeast produce it as part of the fermentation process. I don't know when N2 started being used, but even serving beer under CO2 pressure is quite new, circa 1930-40's in the UK at least, I think it took time to get elsewhere, perhaps 1970s for USA.

Nifty enough, in the UK the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) started shortly after using pressurized CO2, to protect unpressurized beer. Real ale is not served under pressure, and is served via gravity feed or hand pumps from the cask. It can include bottled beer, so long as the carbonation is natural, from yeast in the ale.

N2 is more commonly used with "creamy" beers and dry stouts to produce a rich head, less carbonated flavor. Unless you are serving something like this, N2 would not be appropriate, though it would work, but the beer would not appear, or have the mouthfeel it is supposed it.

I'd say stick with CO2 initially.

BruMeister!... thank you. :wink:
 
  • #189
no worries, got beer on the brain often.
 
  • #190
Insanity said:
no worries, got beer on the brain often.

Only one treatment for that you know? Drink, more beer.
 
  • #191
nismaratwork said:
Only one treatment for that you know? Drink, more beer.

Gotta brew more beer, then drink it. Need to start production again soon this season.
 
  • #192
While refilling my (now four) growlers at "my" microbrewery, I checked about using ones own keg. They said it had to be one of theirs. But they did say that I could purchase one from them. I've have to check this out further.

Anyway, I have some good beer on hand for now.
 
  • #193
dlgoff said:
While refilling my (now four) growlers at "my" microbrewery, I checked about using ones own keg. They said it had to be one of theirs. But they did say that I could purchase one from them. I've have to check this out further.

Anyway, I have some good beer on hand for now.

Maybe you could repurpose a tanker trailer... :biggrin:
 
  • #194
I think I'll go buy some Asahi and Sapporo in support and honor of my colleages and associates in Japan.
 
  • #195
Astronuc said:
I think I'll go buy some Asahi and Sapporo in support and honor of my colleages and associates in Japan.

Hmmmm... I have a great recipe I just found in the NYT for sake-steamed whole chicken... maybe I'll snag some serious daiginjo sake... half for me, half for the chicken.

I'm not usually like this, but I'm ready to get good and bent today.
 
  • #196
dlgoff said:
While refilling my (now four) growlers at "my" microbrewery, I checked about using ones own keg. They said it had to be one of theirs. But they did say that I could purchase one from them. I've have to check this out further.

Anyway, I have some good beer on hand for now.

Probably looking for you to purchase a 15.5gal or 7.25gal keg, that is what beer kegs typically come in, at least for the public to purchase.

A "keg" is a half barrel, a full barrel being 31gals, at least in the USA. It varies on country and used to vary if it was beer, ale, wine or whiskey, etc...

I don't know how much it may be, likely a deposit, plus fee for beer, and then if you return it, get deposit back. Know some guys that have simply kept the keg, and convert it into their large boil kettle at the cost of the deposit.
 
  • #197
Astronuc said:
I think I'll go buy some Asahi and Sapporo in support and honor of my colleages and associates in Japan.

Don't forget the Kirin, Kiuchi or Orion breweries.

Kiuchi makes Owl's Nest Sweet Stout which is one of the best I had, I was not expecting a good sweet stout from Japan when I first tasted it. As I recall, 10% of the grist was lactose to add the sweetness. My brewing buddy had informed my that a lot of Japanese breweries have learned their trade in California.
 
  • #198
This may sound odd, but is Mead when it's properly made any good, or is it just gimmicky these days?
 
  • #199
nismaratwork said:
This may sound odd, but is Mead when it's properly made any good, or is it just gimmicky these days?

Mead can be quite good, and just like any other drink, it can be bad too.
First mead I made I used 18lbs of local honey, made 5gals that ended close to 13%ABV.
One thing with mead, the traditional can take a long time to finish fermentation has the honey has little other nutrients for the yeast other then sugar. I had used some yeast nutrient added to the boil and still took about 6mos. Very good mead though.

There are several variations of mead.
The three main categories and each one has three subcategories, nine subcategories in total then;

  1. Traditional
    1. Dry Mead
    2. Semi-sweet Mead
    3. Sweet Mead
  2. Melomel (Fruit Mead)
    1. Cyser (made with apples)
    2. Pyment (made with grapes)
    3. Other Fruit Melomel (made with other fruits, raspberries, cherries, blueberries, etc...)
  3. Other Meads
    1. Metheglin (spiced; ginger, cinnamon, lavender, etc...)
    2. Braggot (made with malt, same as beer, balanced blend)
    3. Open Category (honey-based, but can include virtually anything else, even blending other mead categories, i.e. cinnamon spiced cyser)
 
  • #200
nismaratwork said:
Maybe you could repurpose a tanker trailer... :biggrin:

:smile: Good idea though.

Insanity said:
Probably looking for you to purchase a 15.5gal or 7.25gal keg, that is what beer kegs typically come in, at least for the public to purchase.

A "keg" is a half barrel, a full barrel being 31gals, at least in the USA. It varies on country and used to vary if it was beer, ale, wine or whiskey, etc...

I don't know how much it may be, likely a deposit, plus fee for beer, and then if you return it, get deposit back. Know some guys that have simply kept the keg, and convert it into their large boil kettle at the cost of the deposit.

Their kegs are 5 gal. (4.7 actually) and usually there is a $100 deposit with a fill for $50. I'm not sure how they would handle the CO2 tanks however and how much their kegs would cost outright. I'll check this out the next time I'm there.
 
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