- #1
Jurrasic
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If you want to soldier something, then, how can you check to be that whatever you are soldering has no lead present?
Does the stuff you solder with have lead in it
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SUMMARY
This discussion focuses on the use of lead-free versus leaded solder in electronics repair, particularly in the context of repairing old tube amplifiers and other devices. The most common leaded solder is the 60/40 type, while many commercial solders today are lead-free. Mixing lead-free and leaded solder can lead to issues due to differing melting points, which may result in inadequate solder joints and potential failure under stress. Users report that lead-free solder often requires higher temperatures to melt, complicating repairs.
PREREQUISITES- Understanding of solder types, specifically 60/40 leaded solder and lead-free solder.
- Knowledge of soldering techniques and equipment, including soldering irons.
- Familiarity with the implications of solder joint integrity in electronic devices.
- Basic electronics repair skills, particularly for tube amplifiers and PCBs.
- Research the properties and applications of lead-free solder alternatives.
- Learn about solder joint integrity and the effects of thermal stress on electronics.
- Explore techniques for effectively mixing different types of solder.
- Investigate the performance characteristics of silver solder for specific applications.
This discussion is beneficial for electronics hobbyists, repair technicians, and anyone involved in soldering, particularly those working with vintage equipment or looking to understand the implications of using different solder types.
- #2
turbo
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I repair old tube amps. Yes, the solder has lead in it.
- #3
f95toli
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Jurrasic said:
Buy lead-free solder...
The type of solder that is used commercially nowadays does not contain any lead. But if you are a hobbyist you can still buy solder with lead in it (the most common type being 60/40)
Also, you should avoid mixing lead-free and leaded solder, which can be a problem if you are reparing something.
- #4
Integral
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I have encountered what I believe to be lead free solder on my last couple of fixes. It must have a higher melting point then regular 60/40 solder as my poor old soldering iron barely has the power to melt it. I found that by adding regular solder I could get it to melt and was able to remove it. I replaced it with regular solder, both my repairs, a power supply for a plasma big screen and a old motherboard seem to be doing fine.
What are the problems with mixing the two?
What are the problems with mixing the two?
- #5
dlgoff
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So Jurrasic. You didn't say what you are soldering. I use silver solder for copper tubing. 
- #6
berkeman
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Integral said:
I'm just guessing, but I think it may be the different melting temperatures. If you have a mix, then part of the solder joint may have a good fillet, and part may not. Especially if the PCB undergoes stress, shock or vibration (like in portable devices), inadequate fillets can lead to premature solder joint failure.
- #7
Born2bwire
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Integral said:
Uggg, yeah. I have tried lead free solder a few times and did not like the performance or behavior of the solder. I'm sticking to lead solder for now.
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