Gaah Leaky Faucet is Driving Me Insane

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A bathroom faucet has developed a persistent drip, causing frustration for the owner. Attempts to fix the issue have included turning off the water and trying to disassemble the valve, but access is limited, and the manufacturer, Kohler, has not provided helpful guidance. The owner is concerned about damaging the faucet further, especially given the hard water that has caused issues in the past. Suggestions from the discussion include using a string to redirect the drip temporarily, applying WD-40 to loosen stuck parts, and considering a replacement if the faucet is washerless. Some participants humorously recommend unconventional solutions like using a sledgehammer or turning up the radio to drown out the noise. Ultimately, there is a consensus that if the dripping has stopped, further tinkering might not be necessary, but if it resumes, inspecting the seat of the faucet for wear could be crucial for a lasting fix.
  • #31
Oh my god...seriously, turn up the radio.
 
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  • #32
russ_watters said:
You mean I shouldn't have started after 2 hours of drinking and watching hockey? Noted.
Definitely not! Never start a plumbing project after much drinking...you might need to pee before you can get the water back on!

Anyway, I'm not sure you see how impossible it is to replace anything not visible in the pictures. If I could get at the underside, I wouldn't be too worried, but I think if I broke a pipe, I might have to rip out my shower to get to it! (You can see it in the wide picture I took).

Ah, I hadn't considered that. That would be awful to have to take out the shower wall to get at the plumbing.

I've always been able to access plumbing from panels inside closets. Not that it's much fun trying to solder pipes while crammed into a closet. :rolleyes: Actually, where I currently live, there's an access panel in the ceiling over the stairwell that is under the tub. I'm not quite sure about the location though, since it seems to be at the end opposite the actual faucets and drains. It might just be to access the motor for the whirlpool thing. And if that's the case, then the way to get to the plumbing in the tub is through the wall about halfway up the stairs...I have NO idea how one would reach that without scaffolding. :bugeye: I'm glad I'm just renting so it's not my problem!
 
  • #33
russ_watters said:
Didn't you just say earlier today that you had a pipe burst?
That was a pipe outside between the house and the water main under about 5 feet of dirt and some bushes had to be dug up in sub-freezing temperature. They had to dig up a length of 7 feet at 5' deep to find the burst. I hired a company to do that one. The PVC pipe had burst. It didn't even meet code. I had it replaced with copper.
 
  • #34
Moonbear said:
Definitely not! Never start a plumbing project after much drinking...you might need to pee before you can get the water back on!
Why do you think I turned it back on! I have a leaky toilet on the ground floor and I used it thinking I had a free flush in it. Nope.
 
  • #35
looks like that nut just below the removable stop screws the whole valve stem out.

http://www.doityourself.com/icat/kholersterlhotstem
 
  • #36
Proton Soup said:
looks like that nut just below the removable stop screws the whole valve stem out.

http://www.doityourself.com/icat/kholersterlhotstem
So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.
 
  • #37
russ_watters said:
So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.

Seriously...1-800-JOE-PLUMBER...
 
  • #38
russ_watters said:
So, more torque then? Hmm... I'm going to need another beer first.

it's what I would do, but I'm taking no responsibility for it. please turn off the supply first.

i honestly don't see how you'd get much torque out of a nut-driver either, unless you've got a grip that makes pro wrestlers wince.and who knows, maybe the thread is lefty?
 
  • #39
Proton Soup said:
and who knows, maybe the thread is lefty?

That part I can't remember from the last time I fixed a faucet. It is possible that they are threaded in reverse, in which case it's now extra-tight. But hey, maybe that's why it stopped dripping now. :rolleyes:
 
  • #40
Moonbear said:
That part I can't remember from the last time I fixed a faucet. It is possible that they are threaded in reverse, in which case it's now extra-tight. But hey, maybe that's why it stopped dripping now. :rolleyes:

it's also possible that one is threaded one way, and the other opposite. kind of like bicycle pedals.
 
  • #41
Proton Soup said:
it's also possible that one is threaded one way, and the other opposite. kind of like bicycle pedals.

Oh god. Learned that one the hard way. I took one pedal off, and made the other one on there with the jaws of life. I took it to the bike shop and told the guy this damn thing won't come off. This big 250lb guy had one hell of a time undoing what I did...I was just like whistle (doot-de-doot-doo-doo) why I have no idea how it got that tight!?
 
  • #42
In response to the OP: I know exactly what you are going through. The sink in my dorm drips constantly(every second or so) if you don't turn the handles really hard when you are done using it. It gets aggravating when my roommate comes in at 12:30 or so and leaves the room without turning the faucet off all the way.
 
  • #43
Russ, in case you missed it, lisa's suggestion would at least allow you to sleep.

lisab said:
I can't help with the plumbing, but if it's the drip-drip-drip that's driving you crazy, I have a short-term solution.

Try running a string or yarn from the faucet down to the drain. Then the water will run down the thread - at least you won't hear the drip. Pre-wet it so the water will adhere better.
 
  • #44
russ_watters said:
That's the one I got a nut driver over and applied a bunch of torque to. I heard some creaking, but it didn't break loose - I'm not even sure it is supposed to.
Is that for the hot water? It doesn't look old enough to be permanently stuck, but it's possible it will never budge. You can try some different chemicals on it. PB Blaster works pretty well. You can also try a breaker bar - just make sure all the force is supplying torque instead of prying the entire faucet one way or the other. It's going to be really hard to break the pipe if you're just applying rotational torque.

Personally, if it stopped dripping then I'd quite messing with it.
 
  • #45
Evo said:
I repaired/replaced ALL of the plumbing in my old house! I'm actually really good! :cry:

I can even tear out a tile wall in the shower and replace pipe and replace the drywall and re-tile. I had a neat little tile scribe to cut the tiles to fit.

Don't let me near electrical wiring though. Even though my dad was an electrical engineer and showed me how to do household wiring, I have a fear of electrical wiring.

I'm pretty decent with electrical wiring after doing a ton of it with my dad over the summer.
 
  • #46
BobG said:
Personally, if it stopped dripping then I'd quite messing with it.

Me too. I'd file away the rest of the information on how to fix it in case it starts dripping again, but if it responded to a good talking-to, then it doesn't need fixing anymore. :biggrin:
 
  • #47
Faucets will occasionally drip because there is a small piece of debris or grit that comes through the water line and sticks in the washer.

It will even happen in a cartridge type stems because they still have O rings that make the seal.

Turning the faucet to full on then off a few times very often stops the drip.

As a last resort only: Sometimes a stem or even a bolt that is frozen can be broken loose by turning it in both directions slightly until you can feel movement.
 
  • #48
I'm really bad at DIY but I had a problem with one of the basin taps in the bathroom, whereby it kept dripping. There's no way I can take a tap apart so I gave the on/off handle part of the tap, where is joins onto the actual tap, a really good squirt of WD40, left well alone for an hour or two, and it worked. Tap works and no more drips.:smile:
 
  • #49
BobG said:
Personally, if it stopped dripping then I'd quite messing with it.
Yes, that's the approach I took. It's still partially disassembled, but I'm not doing anything more with it.
 
  • #50
On a somewhat related subject isn't there a part of chaos theory that says if you know the time intervals of 9 drips of water you can accurately predict the tenth??
 
  • #51
Listen to Moonbear she has it nailed.

Russ if the water is off to the faucet how could you flood anything?

Watch out for the brass nuts they are easily damaged. Use a deep socket or a appropriately sized box end. Do NOT use a crescent unless there is absolutely no other recourse.
 
  • #52
Integral said:
Listen to Moonbear she has it nailed.
I wish it weren't just faucets. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :blushing:

Russ if the water is off to the faucet how could you flood anything?
I think he was worried about breaking something so he couldn't turn the water back on without it flooding...in case it turned into a bigger project that required digging into the shower wall to get to the plumbing.

Watch out for the brass nuts they are easily damaged.

Am I the only one who sees the joke in this remark? :biggrin: :smile: :devil:
 
  • #53
Moonbear said:
Am I the only one who sees the joke in this remark? :biggrin: :smile: :devil:
Is there a monkey involved? In that case a monkey wrench might be an appropriate choice of tools.
 
  • #54
Integral said:
Russ if the water is off to the faucet how could you flood anything?
I was joking around a little - my primary concern was breaking a pipe or solder joint. If it starts leaking again, I'll buy a valve stem before doing anything else. Once I have that part, I should be able to see how to get the existing one out. I was at Lowes today and they didn't seem to have one for my faucet, but they were only like $10, so not a big deal even if I just end up using it as an instruction manual.
 
  • #55
Integral said:
Watch out for the brass nuts they are easily damaged.

Moonbear said:
Am I the only one who sees the joke in this remark? :biggrin: :smile: :devil:

Hey, this could go in the "What's in your man-bag" thread. :-p
 
Last edited:
  • #56
Art said:
On a somewhat related subject isn't there a part of chaos theory that says if you know the time intervals of 9 drips of water you can accurately predict the tenth??

You might be able to tell the temperature. You'd have to figure out the expansion/contraction for the different parts, but the gap allowing the water to drip should change with temperature.

In practice, I guess you could just chart the temperature vs drip rate over a period of time, but since everything is going to be pretty close to room temperature, you probably won't see a huge variation.

I suggest turning off heat to the house. That will create a bigger variation in temperature.
 
  • #57
... and then Russ could turn the thermostat up to 110 F, or better yet 120 if there are no elderly, infants, or infirm members of the household.

A large temperature difference is key here.
 
  • #58
He could turn the temperature up sufficiently that the drops of water evaporate before hitting the tub, thus eliminating the noise...
 
  • #59
nah, just wrap a towel over the spigot and be done with it
 
  • #60
I would worry about the towel catching fire in those hot temperatures.
 

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