Getting started in photography

AI Thread Summary
The discussion centers on transitioning from casual photography, often using smartphones, to more serious photography practices. Participants emphasize the importance of composition, creativity, and understanding the technical aspects of photography, such as depth of field and lighting. They suggest that aspiring photographers should experiment with various settings and techniques, regardless of the equipment used, as the artistry lies in the photographer's ability to frame a scene effectively. Many contributors highlight the advantages of digital photography, including instant feedback and the ability to take numerous shots without the cost of film. They recommend starting with simple gear, such as a smartphone or a basic camera, and gradually exploring more advanced equipment as skills develop. The conversation also touches on the value of learning from failures, the significance of post-processing, and the benefits of utilizing second-hand gear to manage costs. Overall, the key takeaway is that photography is more about the photographer's vision and practice than the specific tools used.
Haborix
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I've often found myself wishing I could take a serious photograph when a certain view or object catches my eye. When I have tried to take a photo on my iPhone, for example, it never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head.

Inspired by all the great photos in the Random Photos thread, I wanted to ask the photographers of PF, novices and experts alike, what their suggestions are for getting into "real" photography. Maybe you have equipment suggestions, technique/skill suggestions, or ways of practicing photography. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!
 
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A camera is more of a tool to me although I do enjoy capturing a nice view. I don't take it too seriously and a lot of them are duds. Learn to accept that and keep on going.
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The real experts here will have better advice and experience. If you truly are cut out for photography, or anything for that matter, the early failures won't discourage you.
 
Take as many as varied pictures as you can. These days your mobile will do.

In a way good picture consist of a good idea and and an "eye" for things and postprocessing. First stage is where the training and experience are paramount, second stage is where automation and AI are getting better than us.
 
Too much has changed. Photography was, a few decades ago, photographic film, printing-paper, dark-room, enlarger to be used in the darkroom, specialized chemicals for processing the images exposed onto the film or printer-paper; and of course cameras which would be loaded and unloaded with photographic film. Someone who took photographs would take his camera or cameras with him and would just need to be ready or know how to look for what he want to capture.

Camera as part of a "smartphone"? On some occasions, I saw a lizard or a bird that I wanted to photograph. I went inside to retrieve the device and went back out. By that time, what I wanted to record was gone.
 
Also related to post #1, we can use our "smartphone" cameras to record video files, and later work on a set of them with a video editor program on a computer to form a nicer repackaged video file. More compositioning and presentation thought-skills still needed for this. Some thought needs to be put into outlining what and how to present the parts, and the final packaged result.
 
Your iPhone is fine.
Haborix said:
it never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head.
It's all about composition.

Make the picture a pleasure to look at in its own right, not just a pic of a thing.

Play with foreground/background objects. Play with light, contrast, colour. Play with negative space. Ensure there are multiple elements that draw your eye from place to place. Tell a little story.

This is one of my favourite pics.


1740695591010.png


The scene was merely a park walkway in the rain, but I positioned myself to put a dewy flower in the foreground and then blurred out the background using a low f-stop.

You still see the colourful umbrella which complements the raininess, but I've played with the scene and settings to down-play some aspects and up-play others. That way, they balance out, create multiple layers, and lead you through the image, telling a story as you go.


(By the way, this park is on a cruise ship.)
1740695899696.png


Notice, though, how this latter pic is just a pic of a thing - one that can be encompassed in a single glance - but the former pic has multiple elements, not completely obvious at first glance. It invites you to explore it - a story in its own right.



BTW, the "wide angle scene with one close-up detail in the foreground" is a great formula to start with. Anytime you are about to snap a pic of a scene, stop and move around until there is something complementary peeking in from the foreground. It might be a flower, or just a tuft of a branch, but it could also be the corner of a cool, colourful classic car, a mossy fence post, or a pretty, paint-peeled bollard on the sidewalk, depending on your location.
 
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What kind of subjects do you like? Landscapes? People? Objects? Abstract?

I like extreme closeups that border on abstractions.

Try cropping aggressively. Cut out anything that is not your subject, then cut out more. Make it so it seems to overfill the page and leaves a little mystery. Or make your subject merely one more element in an abstraction of elements.

I call this "Itty Bitty Boneyard".

1740697327385.png


I hiked 40 minutes into the woods to get it.
 
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Many thanks everyone. And big thanks to @DaveC426913 for the tutorial with examples!
 
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Haborix said:
I've often found myself wishing I could take a serious photograph when a certain view or object catches my eye. When I have tried to take a photo on my iPhone, for example, it never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head.

Inspired by all the great photos in the Random Photos thread, I wanted to ask the photographers of PF, novices and experts alike, what their suggestions are for getting into "real" photography. Maybe you have equipment suggestions, technique/skill suggestions, or ways of practicing photography. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!

Oh, I've got two videos just for you! There is a lot of good advice in these videos!

Ten Ways to Unleash Your Creativity (Zenography)


Just SHOOT! Your Gear Is NOT Important - Here's Why! (Zenography)


Zenography is a good photography channel with more videos here.

I've got some basic stuff to say about gear, so I'll put that in another post here in a while... :smile:
 
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DennisN said:
I've got some basic stuff to say about gear, so I'll put that in another post here in a while..

Regarding gear I've shot with smartphones, compact cameras and system cameras (all digital) and film cameras when I was younger :smile:, and I'll put some notes in below regarding all of these systems.


1. Smartphones

The good things with smartphones are portability and ease of use.
They can be good for general photography, they have become better and better over the years, and I think this development will continue.

The downside is that smartphones have been a bit limited when it comes to specific types of photography (e.g. macro, tele and wide angle photography), but nowadays there are smartphones with a set of different small cameras/lenses on the same phone.


2. Compact cameras (digital)

A compact camera (point-and-shoot camera) is essentially a dedicated camera but with some limitations due to the fact you can't change the lens on the camera. The compact cameras can have either a lens with a fixed focal length or a zoom lens with focal lengths that can vary between different focal lengths.

Due to this (traditionally at least), you got a bit more flexibility with compact cameras compared to smartphones.

Compact cameras are generally more portable and easy to use than system cameras.


3. System cameras (digital)

System cameras (mirrorless or DSLR) offer the most flexibility of these alternatives, since you can change the lens. On system cameras you can put e.g. standard lenses, wide angle lenses, tele lenses, zoom lenses and macro lenses etc.

The downside is that system cameras + a set of lenses thus becomes less portable than the other alternatives. Though today, system cameras have become more compact and portable than before (and there are different sizes and systems too, e.g. Micro Four Thirds, APS-C, Full Frame).

Edit: Also, generally, system cameras & lenses are usually more expensive than compact cameras.


4. Other camera types

I'd like to say there are other cameras types too, e.g. film cameras (analog) of different kinds and medium format cameras.


Lens types (typically, for full frame cameras*):
  • Wide angle lenses (focal lengths between ca 12 - 35 mm)
  • Standard lenses (focal lengths between ca 35 - 50 mm)
  • Portrait lenses (focal lengths between ca 80 - 100 mm)
  • Tele lenses (focal lengths between ca 100 - 400 mm and up)
  • Zoom lenses (lenses where you can vary the focal length between two values let's say 35 - 135mm; there are many various zoom lenses with different focal length intervals)
  • Macro lenses (dedicated to close-up photography, focal lengths between ca 50 - 100 mm)
  • There are also some other a bit more unusual lens types, e.g. fisheye lenses.

* The focal lengths and lens types become a bit different depending on if you use a Micro Four Thirds, APS-C or a Full Frame camera. More info: Image sensor format.

More info:

Lenses for SLR and DSLR cameras (Wikipedia)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenses_for_SLR_and_DSLR_cameras
 
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  • #11
Haborix said:
never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head
If that helps, even with a DSLR and multiple optics in the bag it's about having 50-100 pics to get one good.

Well, at least for me.

I'm often posting some pics about our hikes in the photo topic here - and it's common to have 2-300 photos taken on a hike to have those few posted.

So - just be free, play around, enjoy it, and simply delete (or keep in the drawer) what's not that good.
Works for us
:wink:
 
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  • #12
Rive said:
If that helps, even with a DSLR and multiple optics in the bag it's about having 50-100 pics to get one good.
The intro to my Scotland trip:

"I took over fifteen hundred pics that week. I would have taken fewer but I didn't have time."
 
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  • #13
DaveC426913 said:
I would have taken fewer but I didn't have time."
May sound funny, but it works exactly like that🤣
 
  • #14
Haborix said:
I've often found myself wishing I could take a serious photograph when a certain view or object catches my eye. When I have tried to take a photo on my iPhone, for example, it never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head.

Inspired by all the great photos in the Random Photos thread, I wanted to ask the photographers of PF, novices and experts alike, what their suggestions are for getting into "real" photography. Maybe you have equipment suggestions, technique/skill suggestions, or ways of practicing photography. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!

You've never had it easier with digital...no darkroom or film. You can experiment like crazy, for free so to speak.

I don't do much photography anymore, not like I used to. I was a photographer from 1969 to just a few years ago when covid hit. Health issues messed things up. I just work with archival material now pretty much.

You need to learn how to post process with Lightroom and be one with your camera.

I don't think I can post my websites here, nsfw type of thing. If you like landscaping, then get a landscaper for a mentor. I do or did social documentary photography. Mostly people.

This is some of my work...

FacesOfGentrificationDanielD.TeoliJr..jpg

Faces of Gentrification

Cornered1973DanielD.TeoliJr..jpg


Cornered 1974

romAmericans60YearsAfterFrank2016DanielD.TeoliJr.H.jpg

NYC 2016 Staten Island Ferry

Once in a while I'd shoot some landscapes if it thumbed its nose at me...but it is not my thing.

BohemiansViewNyc2016DanielD.TeoliJr.m.jpg

NYC 2016

a%20cardboard%20box%20IR%20flash%20D.D.Teoli%20Jr..jpg

NYC​
I specialized in infrared flash and circular fisheye photography. I took photos in the dark with invisible light from an IR flash. This was taken while walking by, swinging my arm with the camera in one hand, shooting blind with zone focus and zone exposure with an IR flash. She lived next to a subway heating grate to keep warm.

Well, good luck to you!

YouTube has lots of free videos and the library has free books if you are broke.


 
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  • #15
Wow, so much great info and guidance from everyone! I really appreciate it! I'm going to have a go at trying to take a few pictures with my smartphone each day. I have a tendency to spend way too much money when I start a new hobby, and one thing I know about photography is it will take as much money as you can throw at it, so I'm going to try and stick with my smartphone for a bit!
 
  • #16
I can remember visiting a photography store and the head man there showed me a set of coloration materials to colorify black & white (monochrome) photographs - at least if the prints were not on glossy paper. A good guess, Haborix, is that you are not interested in that part of photography.
 
  • #17
Haborix said:
I have a tendency to spend way too much money when I start a new hobby
It's good to know yourself. :smile:

Haborix said:
and one thing I know about photography is it will take as much money as you can throw at it
Yes, that is very true :smile: (but I'll add a comment about it below).

Haborix said:
so I'm going to try and stick with my smartphone for a bit!
Sounds good. :smile:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Regarding gear and money:

When it comes to photography, it is as you say: you can throw a lot of money on it. A lot :smile:.
But there are ways to lower the cost...

I myself am not a person who naturally goes for the latest, most expensive top of the line gear.
And I'd say you really don't have to do so in this case.

The second hand market is a great place to get good gear for good prices, but you have to know what you are looking for and be a bit patient. Most of the photography gear I've got has been bought second hand on internet auction sites.

Photography gear I've bought new:

One system camera (Sony A6000) and some additional gear like tripods, filters etc (not too expensive).

Photography gear I've bought second hand:

A LOT of vintage lenses :smile:, one full frame system camera (Sony A7R), a couple of vintage film cameras and quite a lot additional gear like tripods, filters etc. All for really good prices :smile:.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edit:

A couple of good videos about second hand photography gear:

11 Mirrorless Cameras - From £50 to £500! (Zenography)


Bargain vintage lenses in M42 mount - best value performers from wide angle to telephoto (Simon's utak)


The CHEAPEST FULL Frame Mirrorless Cameras You Can Buy - Sony A7 and A7R (Zenography)
 
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Bit late to the party, but I concur that the camera in your iPhone, especially if it’s a relatively recent one, is truly exceptional as a general purpose camera. Part of it is the software behind the scenes, which gives outstanding high dynamic range shots with essentially zero effort on your part, and part of it is the surprisingly excellent quality of the lenses. I have seen my girlfriend take photos on her iPhone that are better than my Nikon D3500 DSLR, especially in low light conditions.

I also agree that it’s more about your ability to frame the scene, to recognize the possibility of a view, than it is about the technology used to capture the image. I have seen some gorgeous photos taken on low-end cameras, and my kit of camera equipment that is probably a bit over a grand won’t save me from taking an absolutely terrible picture. It’s the person behind the camera that truly makes the difference.

As others have said, the digital camera era is a huge boon to new photographers because of the instant feedback. No more having to worry about getting the shot right because you only have 36, and then needing to wait days for the results. You can see the results instantly on the camera, and if it’s not a chaotic, fast paced situation, you can make adjustments to your setting and framing and try again.

If you do opt for a dedicated “fancy” camera, I am rather partial to Nikon, as their lenses dating back to 1959 are still compatible with modern production mirrorless bodies through the FTZ adapter, and with a few minor changes to an external feature, will fit pretty much every SLR/DSLR they ever produced in F-mount. Unlike Canon which seems to change mounts every decade or so. 😆
 
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  • #19
Flyboy said:
I also agree that it’s more about your ability to frame the scene, to recognize the possibility of a view, than it is about the technology used to capture the image.
Worth repeating.

While some new equipment is nice, there is no substitute for the creative and analytic piece of equipment behind the viewfinder.

To put it more glibly, the ability to create great art was inside you the whole time.
 
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  • #20
Flyboy said:
the camera in your iPhone
Using a compact camera is also not heresy. It took me more than a decade (and half dozen compacts) to get to the point where they were a limiting factor already.
And, honestly, with my DSLR I'm still after some optics that would give me the same range what some of those compacts had built in.
And it won't be cheap :cry:
 
  • #21
I have always used a compact camera. It fits in my pouch with my wallet. I have it with me virtually all the time.

"The best camera for the job is the one you have with you."
 
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  • #22
Always keep the main thing, the main thing.
- Clyde butcher

Look him up.
 
  • #23
As others here have pointed out, learning and understanding composition is perhaps the photographer's most valuable asset. And it's something you can work on even with the most rudimentary of gear. You can develop* this skill even with the cheapest of cameras and even in the most mundane locations, and take great photos while you're at it.

I could go on for a while discussing composition, but to keep things brief, this "Figure Ground Relation" described in the video is a good starting point, I think. All the composition "rules/guidelines" (e.g., rule of thirds, fill the frame, symmetry/balance, negative space, leading lines, etc.) might make more sense later on, once you have done this exercise.



*("developing" the skill is a continual process. It's something you can spend a lifetime refining.)
 
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  • #24
DennisN said:
The second hand market is a great place to get good gear for good prices, but you have to know what you are looking for and be a bit patient. Most of the photography gear I've got has been bought second hand on internet auction sites.

I just wanted to add a thing about the second hand market:
I meant the international second hand market. That is, the entire world.
It can be great for getting second hand gear (i.e. sites like Ebay etc.)

As I said above, I've bought quite many vintage lenses (to my own surprise I've developed a keen interest in this stuff).

I've bought vintage lenses that were sent to me from these countries:
  • Sweden (where I'm at)
  • Denmark
  • Latvia
  • Italy
  • Russia (before the war)
  • Ukraine (during the war)
  • Japan
  • ...and maybe some more countries, I don't remember
(my favorite lens of all I have is the one that was sent to me from Japan,
a Canon nFD 50mm f/1.4; it's very versatile and with great image quality, and it's light).
 
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  • #25
Haborix said:
I've often found myself wishing I could take a serious photograph when a certain view or object catches my eye. When I have tried to take a photo on my iPhone, for example, it never quite captures what really caught my eye or the image I have in my head.

Inspired by all the great photos in the Random Photos thread, I wanted to ask the photographers of PF, novices and experts alike, what their suggestions are for getting into "real" photography. Maybe you have equipment suggestions, technique/skill suggestions, or ways of practicing photography. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!
Well, I am not a photographer, but downloading the instruction manuals into your computer for the cameras could help, as you can use ChatGPT or an offline AI such as Llama 3 or Mistral AI to chat with the documentation using natural language. You could prompt the AI: "I am using my Nikon [insert model #] to shoot a close up of a rose on a sunny day. What lens and camera settings would you recommend?"
 
  • #26
AlexB23 said:
You could prompt the AI: "I am using my Nikon [insert model #] to shoot a close up of a rose on a sunny day. What lens and camera settings would you recommend?"
Hehe, lately I've actually used Perplexity AI to get various specific information about certain lenses (information which I needed for maintenance) and also some lens evaluations.
 
  • #27
DennisN said:
Hehe, lately I've actually used Perplexity AI to get various specific information about certain lenses (information which I needed for maintenance) and also some lens evaluations.
I have used Perplexity also, but have switched to a local AI that is self hosted.
 
  • #28
With today's digital cameras you can get instant feedback on your composition and re-take the same scene over & over on the spot (thinking landscape and maybe some street scenes, not action/wildlife). This can be a huge advantage over the film days when you made 36 exposures and had to wait for the prints. You don't need AI to tell you what to do, just shoot and shoot till you figure out what you like. That's really 99% of it.
 
  • #29
One of the best techniques that I learned (way back in a high school photography class) is to use backlighting and fill flash for some photos, especially portrait/people pictures outdoors. When taking pictures outdoors, get in the habit of putting the Sun behind the subject to highlight their outline, and if that makes the front of the subject itself a bit too dark, use flash to "fill" in the features facing you.

Flash only works over a limited distance (a couple meters with a smartphone up to 5m with a real flash unit), so this only works for some compositions, although the backlight from the Sun is useful in many situations. When you see an outdoor TV or movie shoot, you will see that they use reflectors and lights to highlight the subjects from behind and fill in illumination for their facial features from the front.

https://greatbigphotographyworld.com/how-to-use-fill-flash/

1745106378574.png
 
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  • #30
gmax137 said:
With today's digital cameras you can get instant feedback on your composition and re-take the same scene over & over on the spot (thinking landscape and maybe some street scenes, not action/wildlife).
Also, if you use a smartphone camera, you probably have a photo-editing app, in which you can improve the composition simply by cropping.

Today I tried out the 0.5x zoom (ultra wide angle) setting on my new iPhone, and got this image with a lot of dead space:

IMG_6107.jpeg


After cropping in the Photos app:

IMG_6107.jpeg
 
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  • #31
berkeman said:
although the backlight from the Sun is useful in many situations
Like this shot... :smile:

1745540127182.jpeg

 
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  • #32
Surf and turf?
 
  • #33
Most gear works fine nowadays, but an iPhone is good enough for daily shots. I think composition matters a lot in photography – it takes some natural sense, plus practice and experience. Just keep shooting more, and you'll get better!
 
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  • #34
Agreed. The artistry is in the framing and composition, not the image capture system.
 
  • #35
As compared or contrasted from posts 33 and 34, Getting Started in Photography some several decades ago included interacting with the technologies more easily, when people still had easier access to wet photography methods. Some technicalities were common. Some members here may remember handling photographic paper in a dark-room and making test prints to figure what was a good time quantity to expose the larger photographic paper for a good exposure from the enlarger. Also the handling of Negative film in a lightless room to remove it from the cartridge, wrap it onto a spool and put into a developing tank; and then proceeding with the chemical processing steps.
 
  • #36
Wow! I wished that much of enthusiasm went into physics posts, too! Anyway, here's my advice list.

1. If really serious about photography, enroll in a class; nothing can replace a good course and/or an enthusiastic tutor.

2. If you want to try your own steps, then start with a mechanical, fully manual camera; use a 50mm lens and load it with a black & white 400 ASA film. People at the photo shop will know what to do and how; they will most probably develop your film make prints for you.

3. Complain about the cost? Well, photography even as a hobby is expensive. Learn to live with that!

4. A really nice piece of advice in this thread: start with M42 equipment, like Asahi Pentax. Again, visit a shop or google a bit. Educate yourself!

5. Film photography first, (lazy) digital shots can wait, if you're so keen as your posts show. (Are you lured by some artistic iPhone shots? Well, check the shooters' CV first; apparently, they are pro photographers with lot of experience.)

6. "Composition" is such a big word! No, start with understanding the difference between a snapshot and a more thoughtful shot; for composition is about paying attention. (If you attend any class, the tutor will tell you to start with "Critique" on other people's photos.)

7. Too many, confusing terms? Sure, welcome to the vast world of visual arts, and photography in particular!

One final word: physicsforums are for physics; for photography, you should look elsewhere for authoritative answers.
 
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  • #37
gmax137 said:
Surf and turf?
More like surf and nuts.
 
  • #38
Haborix said:
Inspired by all the great photos in the Random Photos thread, I wanted to ask the photographers of PF, novices and experts alike, what their suggestions are for getting into "real" photography. Maybe you have equipment suggestions, technique/skill suggestions, or ways of practicing photography. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!

I've been holding off replying b/c I come to photography from a perspective based on my graduate program (optics) rather than 'the arts'- I have never taken a photography class- and so any advice I have is likely at variance with what a professional photographer will tell you. In any case, assuming by "real photography" you mean using a interchangeable lens/camera system, I would suggest:

0) start simple- personally, I would avoid any 'kit lens' provided with a camera body as these are typically slow zoom lenses. Instead, get a fixed focal length 'normal' lens (focal length somewhere around 50mm for 35mm format images) with as low an f/# as you can afford (for example: 50/1.8 is inexpensive, 50/1.4 less inexpensive).

1) Experiment with how varying the f/# changes the depth of field (to isolate the subject from foreground and background), and experiment with shutter speed to understand how to either freeze motion or emphasize motion. Shooting in 'auto ISO' mode (and auto white balance) will help ensure you are exposing correctly and reduce the frustration level. Same for autofocus- it's one less thing you have to master (only at first- I would get away from autofocus as quickly as you can and use it only when you have to). Do not try and take 'the perfect photo'! Just click away and later, see what settings are giving you photos that you like. Expect that you will only like 0.01% of your photos, but that's ok! Over time, the fraction of images you like will increase- I'm all the way up to 0.1% :)

2) From there, you can start to branch out by thinking about composition (like the rule of thirds), how directional lighting impacts shape and texture, etc. etc. Definitely check out your local library for books- the Time-Life series is quite good, for example. There's a ton of useful books out there- useful not just for explaining how to create a photo in different situations, but also example images that include essential information like what lens focal length, f/#, and shutter speed was used. And many volumes on post-processing.... I would ignore those for now and instead focus on creating good photos at the sensor. Keep experimenting- you are trying to advance from "take a bunch of photos and see what works" to "use intentional camera/lens settings to create a desired image".

3a) once you have a better understanding of what you like to photograph (landscapes? portraits? architecture? wildlife? sports? all of the above :)?) the experience you have gained will help you decide what lens(es) you need to add to your 50mm normal lens: wide angle? telephoto? macro? Tilt-shift? I'm biased towards fixed-focal length lenses over zoom lenses, but I understand the logic of having a high-quality fast zoom.

3b) Also- do you now need a flash? a tripod? a bigger SD/XD card? How are you organizing your photos? Are you just posting images online, do you want small (up to 5x7) prints, or do you want larger prints?

3c) at this point (IMO), you are now ready to explore the world of post-processing.

My $0.02...
 
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  • #39
symbolipoint said:
As compared or contrasted from posts 33 and 34, Getting Started in Photography some several decades ago included interacting with the technologies more easily, when people still had easier access to wet photography methods. Some technicalities were common. Some members here may remember handling photographic paper in a dark-room and making test prints to figure what was a good time quantity to expose the larger photographic paper for a good exposure from the enlarger. Also the handling of Negative film in a lightless room to remove it from the cartridge, wrap it onto a spool and put into a developing tank; and then proceeding with the chemical processing steps.
Harkens back to my high school days. And my first career.

Good times, good times..
 
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  • #40
Even though the gear is secondary (as has been said a couple of times in this thread) I just wanted to share a recently released video from the youtube photography channel Zenography where he lists and demonstrates his five best vintage lenses. I share it here for fun, and it also inspired me to do my own list below :smile:.

My Five BEST Vintage Lenses - UPDATED! (Zenography)


Zenography's five best vintage lenses are these (and I also put in my own notes about the lenses he describes):

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For fun, and reference, here is my own list of my five favorite vintage lenses.
Please note that this list is not necessarily describing lenses with the best optical performance;
it's a list of my own favorites judged mostly on how versatile and fun I think the lens is.
Please also note that lists like these are by nature subjective and personal :smile:.
I also provide pictures of the lenses and some sample photos I've taken with the lenses.
In order of focal length, here they are:
  • Canon nFD 50mm f/1.4

    Great image quality, warm colors, fast, good in low light, versatile.
    Price: A little bit more than other 50mm lenses, but reasonably priced and well worth the money.

    Canon nFD 50mm f1.4.webp
  • Meyer-Optik Görlitz Oreston 50mm f/1.8
    (or Pentacon 50mm f/1.8 Multi Coating; it's basically the same lens)

    Fun, well built, versatile and with a minimum focus distance of only 33 cm, which means you can get remarkably close with this one for being a 50mm.
    Price: Quite cheap. The Pentacon version is multicoated and even cheaper.

    Meyer-Optik Görlitz Oreston 50mm f1.8.webp
  • Helios 44 58mm f/2
    Not exceptional optics, but a very, very fun lens, fine for "normal" shots but great for artistic shots and experimental photography. It can do swirly bokeh, and it can be modded by reversing the front element in order to get really experimental and unusual shots. Available in seven versions with various prices. The last version, M7, is said to be the best optically, but it can be harder to find than the other versions.
    Price: Still relatively cheap, but prices have gone up. Easy to find.

    Helios 44M7 58mm f2.webp
  • Canon nFD 100mm f/4 Macro
    I like shooting macro and this is a good and useful 100 mm macro lens. It can be used for other things too, e.g. "normal" shots and portraits. Maybe my recently aquired Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 Macro will replace it, I don't know yet. :smile:
    Price: Not among the cheapest vintage lenses, but macro lenses tend to cost a little more.

    Canon nFD 100mm f4 Macro.webp
  • Jupiter-37A 135mm f/3.5
    A Sonnar-type 135mm; solid build, smooth focus and distinctive rendering. Good bokeh with 12 blades in the aperture.
    Price: Can be a bit hard to find and can cost a little more than other 135mm lenses, but it's a very, very good lens.

    Jupiter-37AM 135mm MC f3.5.webp
 
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  • #41
symbolipoint said:
As compared or contrasted from posts 33 and 34, Getting Started in Photography some several decades ago included interacting with the technologies more easily, when people still had easier access to wet photography methods. Some technicalities were common. Some members here may remember handling photographic paper in a dark-room and making test prints to figure what was a good time quantity to expose the larger photographic paper for a good exposure from the enlarger. Also the handling of Negative film in a lightless room to remove it from the cartridge, wrap it onto a spool and put into a developing tank; and then proceeding with the chemical processing steps.
I had my own darkroom set up when I was younger. I even got ambitious and did color processing. Getting the color balance right, and having to do everything in total darkness was a challenge.
 
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